So this will have lightning and candle blinkies? Is party strobe the one that makes movements look slow motion, and will this have that too?
I like the blink at moon because the Crescendo UI ramps down and up without stopping.
I’ve been meaning to change that, actually… do you think Crescendo should stop at the ends of the ramp? After spending more time on other ramping UIs, I’ve found it’s nice having it stop on its own.
On the FW3A, at least, the plan is for the ramp to stop at both ends. To turn around, release the button and hold it again.
Yes, stopping would be good in my opinion.
+1 here, about Crescendo! And sorry for off-topic!
I’ve been using Crescendo firmware for the last few days and I find it “strange” to reach the bottom/top and then continue to ramp on the opposite direction. Stopping on the top or bottom thresholds would be nice
It will not be the case of the FW3A, of course! And so far I’m finding this Anduril UI incredible (only by seeing the diagram) :+1:
Tried 6 times from off. Just played with my Q8 and I had to remove the batteries again…
An elderly man can not remember how many times 4-5-6 he has to click on a flashlight mode.
Ah, you flashed the latest Anduril onto a Q8?
If a light is meant to be owned permanently by someone who needs an extra-simple interface, this might not be a good light for them. It’s meant more for enthusiasts, and muggle mode is intended for the occasions when someone else needs to borrow a light for a few hours or less.
For permanent muggle use I’d suggest something with significantly less power so it won’t be prone to starting fires. Probably something with a built-in charger too. Olight S1R or S20R might be a good option.
However, if it helps, the FW3A can be reflashed with something simpler. There are a few other UIs available already, including an Olight clone. And a simple UI is reasonably simple to make, if anyone wants a muggle-only firmware.
It really depends on the recipient. I’ve known people close to a century old who were sharp as a tack, who could figure out a complex UI with no manual, then use it with ease. I’ve also known people who were totally lost even on simple interfaces, no matter how much others tried to help explain it. In stock form, the FW3A won’t be appropriate for the latter. But it does at least have a short-term use mode that the latter should be okay with.
This looks like a cool light. Though how does this differentiate itself from say, a Jaxman E2L other than 100 more lumens?
Did you mean 100 lumens or 2100 lumens?
What are the projected modes and runtimes for this baby? I could be interested if it has anything in the 30lumens/60-70hrs runtime.
It has smooth ramping… so it has every brightness level from ~0.1 lm to ~3000 lm, and it has every runtime from ~20 minutes to ~80 days.
Is there some rough computation guide for lumens to runtime (let’s assume the battery is a 3000mAh 18650 like an LG HG2 or INR18650-30Q)?
(eg. 3A ~ 1000 lumens? so that’s about 1 hour if can continuously run at that current; but how about for the other approximation of current to lumens)
I’m using the latest Anduril on my 11,000 + lumen Q8 and I LOVE it!
Blinks at the default positions works well for me, the 4 SST40’s can go VERY low on the ramp floor (too low!) and the candle light fix is superb! I find the lowest setting on candle to be the most realistic with my diffuser in place (and some tint correction via Lee filter to bring the SST40’s in line)
Ramping is ultra smooth and quick enough to not be a drag, still easy enough to select a desired level of output.
If one has memory issue to the point of not being able to use firmware like this, I’d venture to say use of Li-ion cell powered lights should be discontinued… my memory is as fallible as most anyone’s and even I can set this up and use it without much trouble. (some of the lesser used features give me problems at times, but of course that’s what the UI diagram is for)