FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Do I hear an Echo echo? Get some sleep Miller. :stuck_out_tongue:

hahaha the page break made me miss th double posting, thanks, deleted one.

I thought it would be ready within 1-2 months :smiley:
Well, I can allocate my piggy bank account to another flashlight before this flashlight become available.

FWIW, I’m totally guessing. It’s just that these things, so far, have never been fast.

In for one,thanks!

MARK list updated

Yes I think I should add a line to my sig “it is done when it is done” :wink:
EDIT, and that is done :smiley:


How about For What 3ats Arth?

Bad raccoon!

Very bad!

In for one thanks

Yes will update list later

Interested in 2 - Thank you

Was there ever a final decision made on the emitter type? I know there was a survey run on reddit that showed overwhelming support for 219Cs instead of XP-G3s.

I tend to prefer XPL HI in my triples. They’re much brighter than 219C or XP-G3.

However, I’ve also read recently that XPL2 fit into the Carclo 10507 optic without modification, making them an interesting choice.

Course the downside to these kinds of emitters is they cost more than XP-G3. Maybe just sell an XP-G3 version and if people want different emitters they can swap in their own later.

Please don’t glue the head.

Hmm this is for Fritz to answer but I haven’t seen stock Nichia mentioned :wink:

It seems unlikely given this test that the XP-L HI would be brighter than the XP-G3 in a direct-drive triple. Yes, that’s not the highest bin of XP-L HI, but the forward voltage plays a big role in how much current gets through it, and I’d be shocked if the Carclo optics have as good efficiency with the flat domes.

That’s pretty academic though; they’re close, and you’d probably need an integrating sphere to see which is closer.

I have a preference too, but I don’t care too much as I’m likely to buy several of these and swap in several different emitters. I have a shoebox and a smartphone, so I’ll make some attempt at determining which is brightest, but I don’t care much about that in practice. I care more about color quality than the peak output it can sustain for 45 seconds before it burns my hand (that peak output is a pretty good party trick though).

In terms of beam and tint and tint consistency, my best-looking triples are:

  • XP-L HI U5 5000K (~3000 lm)
  • Nichia 219B 92CRI 4750K (800 lm, 1400 lm, 1800 lm)

I also have some XP-G2 at about 2250 lm, and they’re decent, but not as nice as my others. And I haven’t tried it with 219C or XP-G3 yet.

Usually I go for a 10511 optic, sometimes stock and sometimes with the texture polished down to give it a bit more throw. For flooders the 10508 / 10509 can be nice too. But I generally don’t use the 10507 — it adds beam artifacts, catches lint, and isn’t really any throwier than a polished 10511.

I’m mainly interested in max turbo brightness. XP-G3s are good enough for me.
The extra current running to 219Cs would decrease turbo runtime because of extra heat would it not?

I agree the 10507 can have a strange beam shape, it is pretty tight and even, but I don’t have a use for such a profile because it’s like a medium-sized hot spot with no spill. 10511 is what I use, it has really nice even-colored flood and is great for photographing and lighting when I go explore abandoned buildings. Also good for general-purpose uses around the house.

It is my understanding XPG3 give a nice max lumens while still having a DTP ledboard compatible with many different LEDs.
And funny thing, reflowing the LEDs on a SRK (from LB blue to XML2 NW) was very easy, in fact I found soldering the led and switch wires to the RMM driver harder

Flashlights with e-switch are tricky to work with most times …

The switch is in the tailcap. You need a special driver to get the switch-signal directly to the driver without any switch wire.

TheMiller is talking for an SRK