FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

cabfrank · 2018-12-04T06:37:56.000Z

TK, really amazing.

M4D_M4X · 2018-12-04T07:07:24.000Z

cabfrank:

TK, really amazing.

she indeed is!

ToyKeeper · 2018-12-04T08:57:18.000Z

More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.

Firelight2 · 2018-12-04T09:39:18.000Z

Thank you for clarifying that TK.

Also, that looks great! Love the dark grey ano!

Agro · 2018-12-04T09:50:39.000Z

djozz:

Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted

A led driven to the max is inefficient for two causes: high current and high heat. A FET driver at PWMed lower modes has one cause (heat) removed so the led during the pulses runs at higher output than if at max continuously.

It really works like that. Example: I made a 18650 zoomie with a Osram KW CSLNM1-TG and FET+1 driver. If I use a high current cell it is overdriven at max resulting in angry blue light. But at slightly lower setting (so still high in the FET region of regulation) the led colour is normal. The led still receives the same current (but pulsed) so the difference I presume is caused by less heat.

OK, I found that:

TK's Emisar D4 review 18650 Flashlights

Perhaps in the future it can do that. IIRC, Tom’s NarsilM already does it… but this was kind of forked from an earlier Narsil and simplified. Thanks! It seems CRI is not completely straightforward, but the cooler-when-brighter trend appears to be fairly consistent at least. Yes, 7135 chips do not attempt to convert extra voltage into current. They burn off the extra voltage instead. Same with a FET. A voltage-converting driver should be more efficient when the battery is full and emitter Vf…

ToyKeeper:

djozz:

the PWM is so fast that the peaks do not end up fully at 3A, this could be checked on a scope

IIRC, maukka scoped this on the D4 a few pages ago and found that theory to be true. The pulses have a slow enough rise and fall time to act as a very weak lowpass filter, so short pulses never reach full height. (edit: scoped output, but that works because the LED activation time is much faster than the FET driving it)

Still…is it caused by FET model? Battery chemistry? Something in the circuit?

ToyKeeper · 2018-12-04T10:49:50.000Z

Agro:

…is it caused by FET model? Battery chemistry? Something in the circuit?

I think it may be caused by a small resistor in the circuit which is specifically designed to take the edge off each FET pulse. This was done to prevent excess voltage spikes and electrical noise within the driver, but it also seems to have the effect of increasing FET efficiency slightly.

teacher · 2018-12-04T12:38:54.000Z

ToyKeeper:

More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.

Thank you TK for the info & the picture…. that is looking good!! :+1:

ludolf · 2018-12-04T12:39:47.000Z

Please add me to the list. One piece with LH351D emitter.
Thanks.

pinkpanda3310 · 2018-12-04T13:05:29.000Z

ToyKeeper:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.

Aah, that makes sense.

I’m not really fazed about the colour. So long as it insulates the sleeve where it’s supposed to. The pictured light must be proto 3 ?

I’m very happy that we’re getting some communication now.

teacher · 2018-12-04T13:22:25.000Z

pinkpanda3310:

I’m very happy that we’re getting some communication now.

Amen!! :+1:

Thank you TK for picking up the communication sharing roll on this ‘Group Buy’!!

I can only imagine how difficult that has been for you since you were virtually receiving no information to share with us until recently.

Your efforts are noted & appreciated.

For without your efforts I imagine most of us mortals would be completely ‘in the dark’ concerning the FW3A.

Tjohn · 2018-12-04T14:38:17.000Z

ToyKeeper:

More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color….

Hopefully there is a cold blue steel tone to the original, similar to what is seen on my old Nokia 830 dumb phone.
If so, would some call it ‘gun metal’ ?

JasonWW · 2018-12-04T15:49:36.000Z

ToyKeeper:

More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color:

Did they mention whether the dark lines/overlap are now gone or perhaps hidden? If so, I’d call it a successfull compromise and move forward.

Jerommel · 2018-12-04T15:53:27.000Z

Well, it’s still a nice looker, despite it not being clear or light grey dyed.

DB_Custom · 2018-12-04T16:08:35.000Z

Right you are Jerommel, it IS a nice looking light, just not the light we signed up for in the beginning.

nottawhackjob · 2018-12-04T16:59:36.000Z

IMO other than the electronic switch I honestly don’t see watt all the hoopla is about this flash vs watts already out there.

Outwardly IMO it’s an average design with essentially a TI patina. Ok. Woo hoo.

Now if it had a rotary mechanical sideswitch dimmer that was hidden behind a sliding cover that could give me some “hardness”. Or if heads with different led configurations were swappable by just unscrewing then yeah definely woo hoo. Basically a glorified P60. Or magnetic charging, woo hoo.

For this amount of effort and angst I almost expect Bluetooth, a wireless remote, and a camera. Oh, and of course a talking free battery.

Ya know watt? I guess I’m prolly unenLIGHTened.

chadvone · 2018-12-04T17:05:45.000Z

Yeah, its a big deal to me.

nottawhackjob · 2018-12-04T18:07:05.000Z

chadvone:

Yeah, its a big deal to me.

Ok I can see that. For me though I’m just kinda too old KISS fashioned on certain things.

To wit, a good precise uber reliable momentary switch (forward clicky) IS my electronic switch. :laughing:

Man, I’m dating myself. Wait that doesn’t sound right.

DB_Custom · 2018-12-04T18:12:28.000Z

What a wonderful offer tatasal! I can’t accept it though, you hold onto that beauty and enjoy it please.

PM sent….

cabfrank · 2018-12-04T18:23:04.000Z

Nottawhackjob, the size and the firmware are elite for an edc. That is what does it for me. I suppose you are correct in that it is not a giant leap ahead, because of the Emisar, which is similar in some ways. I like them both, but have been holding off, waiting for this one.

SKV89 · 2018-12-04T18:30:43.000Z

CRX:

Well, instead of waiting around or moaning about the FW3A’s production I had to get creative and make my own version ;)<a

The more I look at this the nicer this looks. I like the quad better than triple. Perhaps Lumintop should make a FW4A since there isn’t a rear clicky quad in existence and it will be more efficient. Perhaps use 21700 batteries instead of 18650.