FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Tally-ho · 2019-05-03T15:05:30.000Z

JasonWW:

pennzy:

Why not run a wire inside the tube rather than a inner tube? Just wondering.

How would you connect the wire ends to the driver and switch when they all rotate independently? Seems pretty tricky.

But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.

teacher · 2019-05-03T15:12:46.000Z

Tally-ho:

But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.

Interesting design, thanks for sharing Tally-ho. :+1:

Tally-ho · 2019-05-03T15:21:15.000Z

The spring of the novatac is working the same as the inner tube of the FW3A, but with time if the spring wears off, it won’t be a problem due to its adaptable length.

teacher · 2019-05-03T15:24:08.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

It might take a bit more than snap ring pliers, I had to use specially hand ground down needle nose pliers to get both of my FW3A driver retainer rings loose....the ring is thin and was very tight. The driver is a tight press fit also, it would not pull out by the spring, had to smack it on my wood bench to pop it out, snapped back in nicely with out popping back out, nice enough to run it with out the retainer ring with out issue. so far..

I think that is the thinnest retaining ring I have ever seen. When I first went to check mine for tightness I didn’t even see it & thought… “oh crap, it’s glued after all”. :person_facepalming:

But after closer inspection, there it was. Both of mine were tight btw. :+1:

teacher · 2019-05-03T15:35:47.000Z

ToyKeeper:

But I’ve been meaning to get some proper snap-ring pliers instead of using machinist calipers.

Innovation & adaptability…. I love it!!
This would make a good ‘ToyKeeper video’ btw. :+1: .

JasonWW · 2019-08-09T15:52:53.000Z

I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.

Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting!

At the 7135 x 1 level I got 132 lm

At the 7135 x 7 + 1 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm briefly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

I tried to measure the current draw but I couldn’t get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?

EDIT: The internal temperature was reading 36°C when it should have been 24°C. I reset it and Turbo lasted 15 seconds before stepdown.

M3CSL · 2019-05-03T15:46:17.000Z

thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

JasonWW · 2019-05-03T15:51:44.000Z

M3CSL:

thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

There is no timed stepdown in Anduril (I’m pretty sure). It’s all temperature related and it gets hot quick! Like Toykeeper has been saying, Turbo is really just a short “burst” mode. It does not last long at all.

KawiBoy1428 · 2019-05-03T15:57:44.000Z

JasonWW:

I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.

Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting! :partying_face:

At the 7135 x 1 level I got 132 lm

At the 7135 x 7 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm breifly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

I tried to measure the current draw but I couldn’t get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?

I figured I’d mention my specs since I haven’t heard many other people talk about it in a while.

Damn near exactly what I measured on my T/A Maukka light tube…3360 with 30Q flat top and a VTC5a…which is close to the Max for a V2 XP-L HI thru optics and lens, the most I have ever seen was around 1250lms. in reflector lights. I like the 3D (nothing warmer though…)

BurningPlayd0h · 2019-05-03T16:00:43.000Z

M3CSL:

thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

The stepdown is temperature based and can be configured for a higher or lower temp range.

Yes, triple emitter FET driven lights this small will get hot FAST. The FW3A has one less emitter than the D4 (so lower wattage) but probably less thermal mass, certainly less in the head of the light.

M3CSL · 2019-05-03T16:04:07.000Z

wow - incredible. Thanks guys. What a little fire starter this is!

Relampago · 2019-05-03T16:05:46.000Z

My FW3A shipped, earlier than I expected considering my place on the list. I went with the free shipping and I’ve received my tracking number.

Spiderlight · 2019-05-03T16:26:53.000Z

Is DHL Paket the right carrier to select at 17Track?

JasonWW · 2019-05-03T16:26:53.000Z

BurningPlayd0h:

The stepdown is temperature based and can be configured for a higher or lower temp range.

Yes, and mine is still the factory calibration which could be off a little. I’ll try to see if it’s accurate.

With a high capacity 3400+ cell you might see a bit less lumens, but you’ll probably gain extra Turbo time. I’ll try out some other cells I have laying around.

JasonWW · 2019-05-03T17:01:15.000Z

I also have all 4 of the Carclo lenses and the stock one seems to be the best, in my opinion. The clear 07 is a tiny bit tighter focused, but I see yellow streaks in the hot spot when shined on a whitewall or equivalent. Eh, it’s not worth using in my opinion. The 08 and 09 are nice if you need a wider spot, and don’t need the distance.

The 10511 is called a narrow spot. 22° (lightly frosted)
The 10508 is called a medium spot. 27° (heavier frosted)
The 10509 is called a wide spot. 40° (heaviest frosted)

The 10507 is the non-frosted, clear version with a narrow spot. 18°

Actually, it would not surprise me if the physical dimensions of all four lenses we’re identical and the beam angle difference is strictly due to the amount of frosting on the surface. Here is a picture in the same order as above.

.

JasonWW · 2019-05-03T17:16:46.000Z

JasonWW:

BurningPlayd0h:

The stepdown is temperature based and can be configured for a higher or lower temp range.

Yes, and mine is still the factory calibration which could be off a little. I’ll try to see if it’s accurate.

My FW3A is saying it’s 38°C, when room temp is about 24°C. I’ll make sure it’s fully cooled down internally (when I wake up later) and then check it again. At the moment, my light is probably stepping down a little bit prematurely. Once I reset it, I’ll measure the stepdown time again.

Maukka got 20 seconds out of his light with a 30Q, but he calibrated the ambient temperature as well as bumped the default step down temp of 45°C to a slightly higher 55°C.

jknut · 2019-05-03T17:37:21.000Z

Has anyone found a diffuser that works well with FW3A that they like?

I did think this was interesting, but I didn’t see anyone finding anything “ready to go” that works well by searching the thread.

CRX Rotary - 6th Annual BLF/ Old Lumens Contest Winner Giveaways and Contests

Thanks very much, sure was a lot of patience went into this one O:) . Diffuser/ protective case. I made a simple diffuser from an old berocca tube. Rubbed down with wire wool to remove the printscreen, cut some from the length of the tube, installed a ring of stickyback felt inside the tube for a snug fit and added some GITD powder & UV glue to the ends. [image][image][image][image][image][image][image] Can also be used as a protective case for the light.[image]

iamlucky13 · 2019-05-03T18:20:05.000Z

JasonWW:

TK, is there any combination of button presses that can make the light turn on at a medium level and then not respond to the switch anymore?

I let a newb check out the light and he did some crazy button clicking and it did this. I had to cut battery power to get it back to normal. It was odd.

Was it momentary or did it stay on?

My first thought from the description is he got it in 5-click momentary mode.

teacher · 2019-05-03T19:04:32.000Z

iamlucky13:

JasonWW:

TK, is there any combination of button presses that can make the light turn on at a medium level and then not respond to the switch anymore?

I let a newb check out the light and he did some crazy button clicking and it did this. I had to cut battery power to get it back to normal. It was odd.

Was it momentary or did it stay on?

My first thought from the description is he got it in 5-click momentary mode.

Yeah… I did that by accident last night. :person_facepalming: … I forgot for a couple of minutes that to exit all power had to be cut.

I did have to completely remove the head for this to work. Just loosening would not do it.

ToyKeeper · 2019-05-03T20:23:29.000Z

DooMMasteR:

copper would require an additional insulator because it cannot be anodized to be an Isolator as Aluminium.

hodor:

Bead blasted titanium gets my vote. Other aluminium colours could also be tempting.

…Or silver / clear version?… runs and hides… Only kidding, I don’t like these as they can’t be hard locked out.

If there is a FW3C or FW3T or FW3B, the inner tube will probably still be anodized aluminum. It’s not there to look pretty; it’s there to carry a signal without electrical interference.

The other metals mostly just change the appearance and weight and thermal properties. They don’t really change anything about the light electrically. It was designed to work with bare aluminum, so the anodizing of the host doesn’t really serve an electrical purpose (except on the inner tube). Even the anodized aluminum version can’t be hard locked out. If I turn the light on and then start unscrewing the head, it gets well past the O-ring before the LEDs shut off.

I’m guessing that’s what JasonWW’s friend did — just loosened the tube a little so the switch wasn’t connected any more.

JasonWW:

At the 7135 x 1 level I got 132 lm

On mine, I’ve measured 125 lm on one light and 126 lm on another. So, fairly close. At first I got higher numbers, but when I checked my calibration light again I found the calibration of the tube had changed… so after fixing that, it was a few lumens lower.

Now I calibrate the tube before each batch of measurements. It’s fairly simple to do… just measure the reference light and plug that number into my conversion script. The multiplier is the expected lumens divided by measured lux. Then measure a couple other reference lights to make sure they’re all still in agreement, and it’s ready to use.

JasonWW:

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

It could be lower, actually… but when I had the parasitic drain even lower, it was nearly impossible to exit from momentary mode. The head of the light had to be removed for over a minute before it finally drained enough to reboot, so it was necessary to hold the button to keep the light on, then unscrew the head.

jknut:

Has anyone found a diffuser that works well with FW3A that they like?

Not really. The closest I’ve found is a Fenix AOD-S, but it’s not very good. It’s an odd shape, the material is much thicker than necessary, and it has poor optical properties. Most of the light still goes forward instead of sideways, and it splits light like a prism so the yellow parts go forward while the blue parts go sideways. It can even make high-CRI 219B lights look ugly.

Here’s what I posted about it a few months ago:

I’m also hoping there will be a diffuser cone made for it, because I like those and they work well with candle mode. I’m using a Fenix AOD-S now, but it’s not ideal. Here are a few of my lights with their party hats on:

Ideally, I’d like the FW3A diffuser to be nearly identical to the Olight S-Mini diffuser, except scaled up to fit.