FW3A colors and FW3C sandblasted,FW3T start to preorder

Helios_azimuth · 2019-10-05T22:48:20.000Z

Got Lumens:

Well,

I tried to remove the pocket clip. Unscrewed tailcap removed it, then Nada, the lights dead.

Got mine working by removing the pocket clip and tightening down, then really tightening down, then all out tightening down. The mounting ring for the clip was warped (did I warp it getting it off?) and prevented a tight fit. Had all the problems you had with auto ramping and no response as I played with it for 20 minutes. The glow gasket might have caused an issue, because there was a gentle snap when mounting the bezel tight and it worked after that. Anyway, it looks really nice, Ti/Cu waxed. Just wish I could mount a wrist strap. Beautiful light, but fussy like any beautiful woman. Glad I got it, but it stays at home when I backpack.

Got_Lumens · 2019-10-05T23:35:16.000Z

Helios azimuth:

Got mine working by removing the pocket clip and tightening down, then really tightening down, then all out tightening down. The mounting ring for the clip was warped (did I warp it getting it off?) and prevented a tight fit. Had all the problems you had with auto ramping and no response as I played with it for 20 minutes. The glow gasket might have caused an issue, because there was a gentle snap when mounting the bezel tight and it worked after that. Anyway, it looks really nice, Ti/Cu waxed. Just wish I could mount a wrist strap. Beautiful light, but fussy like any beautiful woman. Glad I got it, but it stays at home when I backpack.

I agree they can be finicky. I got mine working by tightening the driver lock ring, it was not fully tightened. The tube that contacts the driver/tailcap , was not making contact while the driver ring not snug. It only takes a few thousandths of an inch to mess with the two contacts. It can happen on either/both ends of the tube. Any conductive debris can cause a short in the tailcap's PCB or the driver board's contacts that are meant to be isolated from one another.

A lanyard can be attached through the hole in the clip if wanted. A small #7 split ring can also be attached to that hole if paracord won't pass through.

Helios_azimuth · 2019-10-06T00:45:06.000Z

Yes, the lanyards on my FW3As are attached that way, but when I replace the clip on the FW3T/C the light stops working. For now, no clip and no lanyard. The lock rings appear to be tight at both ends. Thanks for the suggestion, it might be useful when time allows disassembly.

Got_Lumens · 2019-10-06T00:57:28.000Z

Helios azimuth:

Yes, the lanyards on my FW3As are attached that way, but when I replace the clip on the FW3T/C the light stops working. For now, no clip and no lanyard. The lock rings appear to be tight at both ends. Thanks for the suggestion, it might be useful when time allows disassembly.

It sounds as if something is preventing You from completely tightening the tailcap while the clip is present. I’m sure when You find the time to troubleshoot and disassemble You’ll get it working just fine

Maybe the o-ring needs to be a tad larger with-in your lights build? Not sure. Maybe talk PM with others that have the Ti/Copper version ???

Hope You can get yours working properly

LumenMax · 2019-10-09T18:12:33.000Z

Hi, I've notice that some of the modes on my FW3T works intermittently and/or doesn't work. Lockout and Momentary (4 and 5 clicks respectively) appears to only get me to Momentary mode and once I'm in most of the time I can't get out unless I remove the battery. Did I get a bad driver?

atobe · 2019-10-09T18:19:19.000Z

When in lockout the light is at the lowest, when in momentary the light will use the last brightness level. At least that’s how mine is. And yes you need to unscrew the head to break battery connection to get out of momentary mode.

LumenMax · 2019-10-09T18:40:31.000Z

atobe:

When in lockout the light is at the lowest, when in momentary the light will use the last brightness level. At least that’s how mine is. And yes you need to unscrew the head to break battery connection to get out of momentary mode.

It seems like I'm in Momentary regardless if 4 or 5 clicks. Does the firmware need to be updated or something? Would Lumintop accept a board swap?

contactcr · 2019-10-09T19:16:21.000Z

LumenMax:

atobe:

When in lockout the light is at the lowest, when in momentary the light will use the last brightness level. At least that’s how mine is. And yes you need to unscrew the head to break battery connection to get out of momentary mode.

It seems like I’m in Momentary regardless if 4 or 5 clicks. Does the firmware need to be updated or something? Would Lumintop accept a board swap?

There is a two level momentary built into lockout… Hold for moon, click and then hold for the floor of your stepped ramp mode (usually still very low)

P33 · 2019-10-16T17:09:06.000Z

Could someone tell me what it the weight of FW3T+Cu? I’m thinking of geting one but I don’t want to end up with something to heavy for EDC.

LedTed · 2019-10-17T00:08:56.000Z

P33:

Could someone tell me what it the weight of FW3T+Cu? I’m thinking of geting one but I don’t want to end up with something to heavy for EDC.

By my luggage scale: 130 g / 4.5 oz / 0.28 lb

hunter1 · 2019-10-20T08:40:14.000Z

P33:

Could someone tell me what it the weight of FW3T+Cu? I’m thinking of geting one but I don’t want to end up with something to heavy for EDC.

Here are some numbers I have:

FW3A Aluminum CREE XPL HI 3D 52,41 gram

FW3T Ti / Cu CREE XPL HI 1A 84,39 gram

FW3C Cu Polished Nichia 219C 4000K 122,50 gram

FW3T Ti Polished CREE XPL HI 3D 74,46 gram

FW3C Cu Sandblasted Nichia 219C 4000K 123,41 gram

FW3T Stonewashed Luminus SST20 4000K 74,46 gram

Gunga · 2019-10-20T17:30:45.000Z

Awesome info. Thanks!

xevious · 2019-11-06T16:10:15.000Z

hunter1:

P33:

Could someone tell me what it the weight of FW3T+Cu? I’m thinking of geting one but I don’t want to end up with something to heavy for EDC.

Here are some numbers I have:

FW3A Aluminum CREE XPL HI 3D 52,41 gram

FW3T Ti / Cu CREE XPL HI 1A 84,39 gram

FW3C Cu Polished Nichia 219C 4000K 122,50 gram

FW3T Ti Polished CREE XPL HI 3D 74,46 gram

FW3C Cu Sandblasted Nichia 219C 4000K 123,41 gram

FW3T Stonewashed Luminus SST20 4000K 74,46 gram

Terrific info, thank you. I’m tempted to go with a titanium one now!

cyclops · 2019-11-06T19:11:41.000Z

LumenMax:

atobe:

When in lockout the light is at the lowest, when in momentary the light will use the last brightness level. At least that’s how mine is. And yes you need to unscrew the head to break battery connection to get out of momentary mode.

It seems like I’m in Momentary regardless if 4 or 5 clicks. Does the firmware need to be updated or something? Would Lumintop accept a board swap?

4 clicks will lockout but it also makes it momentary but only in moonlight mode. You can click 4 times again to get out of that mode.
5 clicks will get you to momentary mode with the level you had in ramping. You have to disconnect the battery to get out of this mode.

cyclops · 2019-11-06T19:12:26.000Z

contactcr:

LumenMax:

atobe:

When in lockout the light is at the lowest, when in momentary the light will use the last brightness level. At least that’s how mine is. And yes you need to unscrew the head to break battery connection to get out of momentary mode.

It seems like I’m in Momentary regardless if 4 or 5 clicks. Does the firmware need to be updated or something? Would Lumintop accept a board swap?

There is a two level momentary built into lockout… Hold for moon, click and then hold for the floor of your stepped ramp mode (usually still very low)

I dont see this in mine. Is this in the newer firmware?

Firelight2 · 2019-11-06T19:30:21.000Z

P33:

Could someone tell me what it the weight of FW3T+Cu? I’m thinking of geting one but I don’t want to end up with something to heavy for EDC.

Based on my postal scale, here are some weights with a Sony VTC6 installed (includes weight of the battery):

All aluminum FW3A …………………………………………………………………………………………… 100g
My modded Emisar D4 aluminum with illuminated metal button and bezel board ……………………. 115g
FW3T with Aluminum head swapped in from an FW3A …………………………………………………… 116g
All Titanium FW3T ………………………………………………………………………………………………121g
Ti-Cu FW3T …………………………………………………………………………………………………….137g
Copper FW3C ………………………………………………………………………………………………….169g
Ti-Cu Emisar D4 …………………………………………………………………………………………………Approx 170g

My impressions:

The Ti-Cu Emisar D4 and FW3C are too heavy for pocket EDC. They bounce around in my pocket and feel uncomfortable.
The Ti-Cu FW3T is borderline weight-wise.
The All Titanium FW3T feels good in the pocket, but may have heat issues.
The titanium FW3T parts with bare aluminum FW3A head looks surprisingly good, is noticeably lighter, and has less heat issues than all Ti.
The all aluminum FW3A feels incredibly light, but lacks the durability of titanium.

Gunga · 2019-11-06T19:57:25.000Z

Thanks for the impressions!

f0xx · 2019-11-06T20:05:34.000Z

cyclops:

contactcr:

LumenMax:

atobe:

When in lockout the light is at the lowest, when in momentary the light will use the last brightness level. At least that’s how mine is. And yes you need to unscrew the head to break battery connection to get out of momentary mode.

It seems like I’m in Momentary regardless if 4 or 5 clicks. Does the firmware need to be updated or something? Would Lumintop accept a board swap?

There is a two level momentary built into lockout… Hold for moon, click and then hold for the floor of your stepped ramp mode (usually still very low)

I dont see this in mine. Is this in the newer firmware?

Second batch got this upgrade I believe. All the newer ones should have it (CU, polished Al, Ti, colors, etc).

I find it a useful upgrade and I set my floor on the other ramp to a higher brightness so I can have moonlight and “a bit more”

kyledutton · 2019-11-11T23:27:21.000Z

Does anyone know if there is a plan to have 18350 tubes in copper for the FW3C?

BOO5TED · 2019-11-12T04:08:54.000Z

I’d love an 18350 Ti tube.

Just sayin’.