What’s the better alternative? $1.50 doesn’t seem like much to me, considering the comparative cost of everything else.
I see, thanks! Have you also replaced the optic in S43? If so, I’m very curious to know what you sourced and what mods were necessary. :student:
Nope never jumped on the S43 band-wagon. S41’s I turned into Triples, the S41 optic/board was tearing up the emitters.
Hello helooooo. I got my fw3a dismantled as I'm trying to do a firmware flash to toykeepers firmware for a 219b build. I'm running into an issue understanding the ping layout on the usbasp up to the SOIC clamp. I suspect it's this reason why I keep getting an error "target doesnt answer. 1" How do I repin the SOIC so it matches what's in the usbasp and for a tiny85 chip?
You could get some dupont connectors and put them between the programmer and the SOIC ribbon cable. this would allow you to reconfigure however you need. You may even be able to replace the ribbon on the SOIC with the dupont connectors.
Alternatively, if you have some solid core wire of the right diameter, you could use that instead of purchasing the dupont connectors.
If you can get the ribbon off the SOIC without breaking it, you could reattach the ribbon in the correct configuration (maybe solder it?).
Sorry, I accidentally replied to the wrong person. Look at my response above for some ideas on how to change the pinout on the SOIC.
As for the pinout, check this post out: BLF Link
I have used it as reference for flashing all my lights when I need a refresher (attiny13 is the same pinout as the attiny85)
Thank you guys I’ll try when I home
Awesome I do have those Dupont con doctors. I bought them when I got the usbasp not knowing why I needed them but now I see where they come in handy 
Modded with high CRI LH351Ds
Probably took too thick wires for the aux LED on prtototype
on first assebly I had the driver twisted to align to the heads cutout and ripped the pad where the optical nerve was off
so disassemble again, looks messy with the heat paste all around
Prototype, got a small bug, but can be used without the LVP chip, the bridge pads were designed on it so no big deal
but the fab let me down not cutting out the 20mm boards from the panel, so I got ordered new ones
Also made a quick thermal test, that thing gets hot fast
Will the aux board work with the stock mcpcb or only the noctogun?
both
Nice Lexel! When will they be available? Would be interested in solid colors like Ice Blue, Red and Orange….
Looks great, Lexel! I assume the aux LEDs would always be on?
if you flash driver and remove the optical nerve resistor you can solder there the Aux supply
then flash a firmware variant that supports the Aux LED option
Looks really good Lexel
Uh ? What is that ?
Also, I might be interested in an Aux LED board for my FW3A 
Skynet.
Removed 2 7135’s from my FW3A. It still thermal throttles with a full battery. But with a more empty cell it can sustain max regulated output for a long time (probably indefinitely). I did a calculation to determine how much the efficiency actually went up, and it wasn’t much… But still technically more efficient than the pwm equivalent with 8 drivers.
I was worried that the mode spacing (or ramp rate) would be non linear between the 1x7135 and 6x7135 sections, but it’s still very good.
last night my Glow washer from @CRX came in! unfortunately my pics aren’t uploading but I’m sure you folks have a pretty good idea of how it looks
I’m drooling over here Lexel. Nice work! How soon can we expect these to be ready?