FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

Can you source some 2700K and 3000K 219B? I bought some 3000K 219B 9080 from LEDRISE.eu and they tested true 9080 but with a greenish duv of 0.0028 even on high output and measures about 3400K. I would love to try some rosy WW 219B.

Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.

Thank you — good to know. I always keep a tube of Goop shoe-goo around for various long term repairs that can be reversed. I’d gotten into the habit of manual lock-out (just a slight twist to the head), but if the perimeter ring works well to reduce accidental activation, that saves one less thing on the mind when dealing with a pocketed FW3A. :+1:

Very nice work, tatasal! :beer:

I think if there are no other objects in your pocket , you will not get accidental activations. At least that has been my experience so far. You could stack the washers for added protection but it might not look as nice. With one , it looks like it came that way.

Kaidomain Lens (22.7mm x 2.0mm):
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 252.814646 0.368024 0.364769
CCT = 4277K (Duv –0.0019)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.9 [ R9 = 84.7 ]
R1 = 93.9 R2 = 92.5 R3 = 88.8 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.7 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.7 R10 = 80.9 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 72.3 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

Same lux as UCL? Is that real or a copy-paste error?

There might be a slight difference the meter was set to auto and it showed 129x10 but since I took the measurement that way originally I did the same this time.

That’s interesting result. :slight_smile:

I actually sell 219b if you need some. I have sw35, sw40, and sw45k. PM me.

PM sent.

The idea of using the Fu Bat is Brilliant, I love the work you did, and the light looks fantastic!

Batman would be proud :laughing:

Oh no, I didn’t do it, some Chinese flashaholic did! :beer:

I was thinking about making a Batman comment, and wish I would have!

FW3A mods on a budget:

GITD: trimmed tape band along inside wall just below Carclo optic, and band along groove in tail cap
Optic: 10507 (in addition to others , beams)
Grip: trimmed bicycle inner tube, reversed. Also, o-ring attached, aligned to base of tail cap.

Still have a plan to install trits, but waiting to see how the tail cap aftermarket offerings pan out. I’m completely satisfied with the XP-L 3D emitters and feel no need to change. I was tempted to attach a metal washer to the tail cap as done by another member here to help minimize accidental activation, but, I’m finding the slight twist of the head to be very effective and not really a bother. The grip enhancements are excellent. The inner tube has completely stabilized the grip, no slippage. And the o-ring adds a little extra tactile grip when picking up. It extends about 1mm beyond the tail cap radius — just enough to be useful without being obtrusive.

/\ — photo edit caused tint skew in last image — actual tint is neutral not cool

Nicely done! :D

Where to find that GITD tape please?


- SAM -

Hi Sam, it's standard GITD tape available from many places. I happened to pick Captank waterproof tape. Then just trimmed to fit. I read up quite a bit about phosphor used in this kind of tape and it really doesn't wear out -- you can recharge nearly endlessly. The adhesive will wear out first, if anything. The tape inside the head is well protected so it should last the life of the light.

should be good for a least half hour then 


Ugh, I take it you're one of the folks who got a dud? :TIRED: