FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Whew, that’s a relief. I think even my feeble modding skills can handle that.

Standard procedure for any new flashlight is to make sure all threaded parts are tight. Things tend to loosen during shipping :wink:

its not the shipping its the boss telling their worker: “assemble faster or you get fired”

Most likely…. :wink:

I also encountered the same problem.

In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.

Thank steel for the additional advice & photos. That step is invaluable to know also…… :beer:

You and Firelight2 have save people a ton of annoyances by your postings! :+1:

If they will only read them that is…. :person_facepalming: . :smiley: . :smiley:

Thanks for posting about this and including pictures!

That confirms the driver isn’t glued, and it also confirms the driver fit issue is completely fixed.

Also, if someone doesn’t know there’s a notch in the driver, it can be easy to miss… and then it’ll be confusing to figure out why the light doesn’t fit together quite right.

How the heck is she supposed to catch up on new YouTube videos, sip her coffee and discuss the latest Game of Thrones episode? Wow!

A big thanks for troubleshooting the retaining ring and pointing out that notch. I’ll check mine when it arrives.

One of my 2 FW3A is not tightened.
This ring is very thin and the structure may not be very strong.
Maybe bring the retaining ring out when disassembling the battery.
But the chances should be small. Because it is not easy to disassemble.
Some retaining rings may have Burr.
You can take it off and trim it, or grind it with sandpaper. (Observant)

Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?

I was hoping somebody would run 3xXHP50.2 3V in there :smiley: But I haven’t seen any triple MCPCBs that would fit.
The end result would probably be a hot light after 2 seconds.

Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s……

1 Thank

Will the UI work with a removed fet?

I don’t know on this FW3A, but I have blown FET’s on FET+1 7135 drivers and the lower modes still worked………

Take one for science… :smiley:

That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.

If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?

There is a firmware sub-version in her repository for anyone who wants to be conservative with the 219B. It limits the FET channel to 50%. It is also possible to create your own firmware version with different ramp levels.

Because the red XP-E2 has a low forward voltage (and the photo red and far red even lower still), it is probably advisable to avoid FET use entirely unless you’re willing to risk killing a set.

On the other hand, the red and green XP-E2’s seem to have fairly high foward voltages and might work ok with FETs.

Source - XP-E2 datasheet, plus DJozz tests:

Thank you for providing this information. Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.

If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.

Remove the FET then add more 7135’s for your desired current.