mattlward
(mattlward)
441
I am not sure… but now that it is my main EDC, it does not stay in lockout long enough to lock up. I will try to leave it alone this weekend and see what happens. My gut tells me that it takes north of 12 hours to act up.
JasonWW
(JasonWW)
442
If you want a second/alternative way to lock out the switch, don’t forget that you can give the head a small turn to loosen. It doesn’t cut power, but it does cut the switch circuit so there’s no chance of an accidental turn on.
mattlward
(mattlward)
443
I was aware of that option, would like to finish troubleshooting the soft lock issue. But, the other day I cooked my leg with it. Came on and ramped way up in my jeans pocket. So, now will find a handy way to lock it out.
I’ll see if I can reproduce the issue… I have three FW3As here which are locked, and I’ll leave them alone until tomorrow to see if they unlock correctly.
I don’t really expect anything weird to happen though, because in lockout mode the light is completely asleep. If it had aux LEDs it would have “sleep ticks” which wake it up a few times per second to check voltage and do blinky patterns… but the FW3A doesn’t have that. It just sleeps, without any code running, and the only thing which should be able to wake it is a button press or a hard power cycle.
Maybe if they spent an hour being shaken, it might trigger something. Enough noise on the button pin might confuse it.
Nothing weird happened. All three unlocked normally, and then functioned without issues.
But they were sitting idle on a table. Maybe I’d get different results if they had been moved around while locked. Because if there’s a bug, it probably requires electrical noise to trigger, and that shouldn’t happen unless the light is being bumped or shaken or something.
mattlward
(mattlward)
446
I figured out the issue!!! It was me being a dumb*, I have carpal tunnel and do not feel to finger tips well on my right hand. I realized when stuck in lockout, the light was not stuck in momentary moonlight. I was getting 5 clicks and ending up in momentary mode.
xevious
(Gary)
447
Good to hear it! Always a relief when it’s something this simple. Bummer about the carpal tunnel — hope you can get that taken care of (there are medical procedures out there that are supposed to help).
hank
(hank)
448
Hmmm, do you know any local ham radio operators, or anyone with FRS/GMRS walkie talkies?
Transmitting on those toggles a lot of switchable electronics around my house.
Charging light on a radio charger goes on
Motion sensor lights go on
and such.
mattlward
(mattlward)
449
Wish I could get it fixed. But, also have avascular necrosis in both hands and it makes the process more risky with a very possible less than ideal outcome. I have one more year to work and then my keyboard time will fall off quite a bit, when I stay off the keyboard my hands do feel better.
Hi all,
In the instructions it says in the ramp the flashes I get are at: Max regulated levels (1x7135, Nx7135)and CEILING Can someone explain what (1x7135, Nx7135) means 
JasonWW
(JasonWW)
451
The FW3A uses 7135 current regulator chips. One channel has a single chip which let’s about 350 milliamp pass through (about 130 lumen). The next channel has 7 x 7135 chips that lets 2.45A through plus the other channels 350mA for a total of 2.8A (about 1000 lumen). Then the last channel is just the FET.
In stock configuration the ceiling and 7 x 7135 are the same. If you change the ceiling level I’m not sure the new ceiling will blink. It may just stop ramping with no blink.
So in stock configuration when I am ramping up about 1/3 of the way I get a blink. That is when I am getting the top of the first channel 380ma, and then the second blink is ceiling?
I would take other lights. The FW3A will just come on in your pocket and be dead when you need it. Unless of course you choose the electronic lockout method. Still trying to figure out why a EDC light needs to be locked out but, hey it’s the price we pay for a great UI in a mediocre light.
JasonWW
(JasonWW)
456
It all depends on how you carry it. Any light inside a pocket is possible to accidentally turn on. Tail switch, side switch, clicky or e-switch. Twisty lights might be okay in a pocket as long as you have them half a rotation or more from off.
For camping, a belt mounted holster works great. A holster that protects the button.
A always use mechanical lockout, not electronic lockout.
This is all from my personal experience. Your mileage may vary.
+1 for mechanical lock outs. I don’t use the electrical ones for anything ever. Less reliable plus you always have to remember what the “trick” is to get them unlocked. On my FW3A I’ve noticed sometimes it takes more than just a 1/4, but seems to work pretty well.
I get what you all are saying but, No matter how I carried the FW3A it is forever coming on accidentally. All the other lights I carry on a daily basis are side switch with a few tail clicky’s thrown in once in a while. I don’t have to lock them out, mechanically or electronically. It’s just one more step and a delay in getting light on the situation. It’s just unattractive for me. I tried a few holsters even though I kind of hate holsters for flashlights, darn thing still came on. I never carried it loose in my pocket, that will just be asking for trouble with any light other than a twisty. I have tried clipping it on my pocket, it’s usually on before I get out the door. So I guess what I’m saying is these extra precautions I have to take to carry the light just isn’t worth it to me. It’s a great around the house light I guess. I was hoping it could be used for more.
I have already gotten rid of one FW3A and the other one should be leaving in a USPS box fairly soon. Just too many other lights I can choose from that I don’t have to monkey around with. It’s a great novelty light as is. I was thinking of adding maybe a 2mm or 3mm ring to the tail of the light. Maybe making it harder to turn it on accidentally. I don’t know, if this last one I have sticks around any longer I may mess around with the ring, not sure. If the ring does work out I will reflow some SST-20’s or Luxeon V2’s onto the board and enjoy it even more. I try to stay optimistic and positive but, it’s difficult with this light. For now I will stick with a D4, Reylight Cu AA pineapple, DQG tiny 18650, or a ZebraLight of some sort.
CRX
(CRX)
459
It’s much better with a smaller button & flush fixed surround.

JasonWW
(JasonWW)
460
I kinda like clicking the edge of the switch.