FW3A Useful Information.....

No answer to that question. Oh well.

Here’s a lanyard ring:

you can do that with rope

google ‘constrictor knot’


Do you know of any good sites or videos for showing some excellent lanyard making?

You can look at toykeepers changelog and test what added feature is in your light.

You can look at toykeepers changelog and test what added feature is in your light.

Hank - USLight coincidentally started a thread asking the exact same question on the same day you did.
Assume you came across this already by now, but just in case you didn't here is a link for completeness in this Useful Information.
FW3A Anduril firmware version?

There are so many references to the FW3A I get lost and confused.

I have an early version, first batc FW3A that is going to get an emitter transplant from the xp-l hi 3D to 3500K LH351D’s. While I am at it I want to update the firmware. The other FW3A I have is a later verson with the momentary that has a choice of 2 different levels when locked out. I want that.

Is the firmware version anduril.2019-08-05.fw3a.hex the best one to use? Can anyone verify if tis version has that 2 level momentary when in lockout? And does that version have the version check built into it?

Thanks much.

If you had to keep only one FW3A, which tint would you choose ?

The most recent FW3A firmware is here. However, I’m working on some pretty significant changes to the UI for Anduril2, and it could potentially be available late this month.

So, it depends whether you want Anduril 1 or 2.

It’s not a huge difference… mostly just catching up on some changes I’ve been delaying because they would break backward compatibility. The biggest one is that it defaults to muggle mode (er, “Simple UI”) unless the user clicks to remove the limits and enable the full UI. But it’s still in progress, and I don’t even know how some parts will look yet.

Of the official versions, I’d keep one with XP-L HI 3D.

Thanks so much for this. I found the information very helpful

Sorry if this is not the right place to ask, but I wonder how come there is a 8mm difference in length between the FW1A and the FW3A, the latter being shorter.

Same reason why “V” is taller than “w” even though they’re the same width.

More reflectors in the same space means they’ll be shallower.

Thanks ToyKeeper for the very convincing typographical analogy!

That’s correct, we are NOT calibrating copper models to preserve the seal on the light. There should have been a note in each box saying so.


CalvinIS. Would you consider calibrating the copper FW3A prior to shipping? Happy to pay an up charge on that. Doing so would give me a few day head start on the natural patina process (smile).


Where to buy parts for fw3a?

How many different versions of Anduril are there for the FW3A series?
It was my understanding that there’s just two: Anduril v1 and Anduril v2.

I have an LM-10, which is essentially just an FW3A with a different body. I expected it to be Anduril v1. And when I do the 15 clicks to get the version indicator as provided with Anduril v2, there’s nothing. So it should be version 1. However… if I do 10 clicks, I get a config menu. A single flash, flicker, then double flash, flicker… Anduril v1 indicates that 6 clicks puts you into Muggle mode. Anduril v2 does nothing for 6 clicks. I’ve confirmed that Anduril v2 uses 10 clicks to put into “Simple UI.” This is NOT what is happening with my LM-10. The included manual doesn’t describe it. So what is this mystery 2-stage menu?

It’s Anduril 1. The 10C was a hidden menu so the manufacturer/distributor could quickly calibrate the temperature sensor.

Interesting. My early FW3A does not have this hidden menu. I guess it was a slipstream release then. I did a factory reset… so I’m guessing that would’ve erased any calibration that might’ve been done.

What parts are you looking for?

I recently aquired a new to me (used) FW3A & have found this old thread very helpful.
Thank you!

1 Thank