How’s this project coming along?
Well, I have the optics and a couple of reflowed quad boards, but I am more persuaded now to make a full host than just a C8 head.
One plan, for a particularly economical host, is to take the 2x26650 L2 extension tubes and chop them down to make a quad Khatod 26650 shorty knurly. Not sure what everyone thinks of that… I’ve ordered the tubes and should be getting them pretty soon.
Wondering why you didn’t order the short tubes for an L2 to begin with?
Sounds interesting. I’ve yet to find a pocket 26650 torch that I really like. There seems to be a gap in that market that needs to be filled.
So, several people had asked me to make a copper head, so I made this thread to gauge interest specifically for one to suit the Khatod quad optic and the new Cutter Quad boards. Plenty of people are interested. But then several people said hey, you should make a complete host… and then the “BLF 26650 pocket light” thread was created, which specifically links to this thread, and I thought yes, that’s more fun. I am not tooled up to make body tubes myself at this point, but the L2 tubes are very good looking and also inexpensive. The Khatod optic is going to fit in it perfectly, a king kong 26650 will provide the same output and longer runtime than a 30Q, and the L2 tube walls are thicker than a C8, so lots of benefits. No wasted parts either like there would be with a C8 conversion.
I’m in for whatever you make. I have 4 of the Khatod’s burning a hole…
What I want most of all is a head like the S41/E14, but that would take the Khatod. Add some mass while you’re at it, and use the same or similar tube(s) as they do. Add an 18500 tube as well. I’d buy 6.
The L2 comes or came with a single cell tube to begin with. I much prefer it in that more compact package. With the tube and tail cap all set, a proper head could be attached for the smaller quad optics and it’d be compact and powerful without costing a fortune. Simon could surely set you up with the short tube and tail cap, I would think. I don’t know how many you’re talking about, but with all the machining and anodizing already done, that’d be a quick and cheap way to build it.
Perhaps I got confused about your “extension tubes” and “2 x 26650” reference.
I like the 2x26650 extended tubes, which are already sold individually, because they are long enough that I can center the knurl segments and re-thread the tube for my own components as necessary. I am not borrowing any other L2 components, just the tube. It’ll be a shorty light, and scratch built except for the tube. The Khatod optic fits inside of the body so it wont need a separate head, just a threaded copper pill inside and a bezel.
I’m interested in these tube lights. Count me in.
So when your done with the build it’ll be like a 1.5x26650 tube, with a really bright end. Should be a blast!
Sounds interesting, I’m in.
The main problem with tube light design is getting the pill and head to dissipate heat without transferring it down the body tube and cooking the cells.
Body tube is 4mm’s thick, lots of mass.
Do you intend to use the same threading as the stock L2 tube? Could be a good idea that would allow for easier future modding. Regardless, I like where this is going. I’ve been in for a while now; still am.
Still in hoop
Heheh, you guys are a riot. I love it!
It’s good the heat transfers down the body efficiently. The heat only has a few places to go in a flashlight: the mass, exposure to the air, and to your “meat sink.” (your hand) People give tiny fins way more credit than they are worth and underestimate the dissipation power of the “meat sink.” As far as cooking the cells, the cells are fine to the temperature where you won’t want to hold the light anymore, (60c) so as long as you don’t use it with a leather glove everything is A OK in that regard. Bistro and other drivers and firmware with temperature monitoring are available.
I received the tubes yesterday. These suckers are beefy. Now comes the tricky part of making them into a nice toober.
I agree, copper fins just add more cool factor than a solid exposed chunk. I add them for the aesthetic as much as the heat sinking although for micro mags it’s a two-bird effect.
There are fins, and there are fins. A lot of fins are mostly superficial, but deep, thin fins really can dissipate a lot of heat.
If air is continuously forced past them but without that it’s only slightly improved over a similar total mass of the same metal without them. Fans and fins go together since one without the other is usually insufficient if they are needed to begin with.
The passive fins on the Olight X6 Marauder probably do the trick pretty well, of course those are massive.