The passive fins on the Olight X6 Marauder probably do the trick pretty well, of course those are massive.
…if only they could wiggle like a fish?
Quad emitter, 22650 tube light?
YES PLEASE!
I’ve made some progress on the toober. At this point the light is CAD modeled and I’m messing around with the fitment of the optic and bezel and heatsink and such. It’s a little tricky being a one piece body and without a lot of clearance around the optic. With the current concept, the heatsink is installed from the front until it bottoms out due to there being no more thread, then the mostly flat and flush bezel is tightened on using a silicone pad, and then the heatsink is finish tightened from the back with a custom tool, sandwhiching the optic.
I’m considering the issue that sometimes happens with quads and triples and such, where the torsion of tightening the heatsink and bezel causes the optic to shear the LED domes. With the Khatod optic the fit to the LED domes is pretty close so the less twisting of the optics legs, the better. I don’t think there’s enough room to build struts to reinforce the optic legs but there are a couple of other things to try. The glass UCL lens in front of the optic may help to alleviate the issue by itself, but Teflon O-rings on either side of the glass lens may help. The optic would contact teflon, contacting the glass, and the glass would contact teflon, contacting the bezel. Another thing to try is a quad threaded heatsink. This would allow the heatsink to move four times the distance axially for a given amount of rotation compared to a regular single start thread. Testing will be done to see what works, starting with regular O-rings, the glass lens, and a standard thread, then trying a quad threaded heatsink with regular o-rings, then finally adding the teflon if the issue persists.
What about instead of a threaded pill a slip fit one with an axial groove and matching rib in the head to keep it from twisting. Same as before with loading from the front and tightening the bezel but squeezed against the lens from the back with the driver retainer ring that threads into the head rather than the pill.
When I make a quad spacer/sink for an X5 I make the copper fill the head such that it has a rim around the optic. The optic sits flush inside this rim and as such, the lens or bezel can’t tweak it… it’s fully supported by the copper sink.
On X6’s where it’s a simple spacer, I like to use the CUTE-3 with longer legs and countersink the legs into the heat sink below the mcpcb, locking it in.
CVT fish fins on a copper head, brilliant Ouchy! (constant variable timing, for cooling in conjunction with the heat being produced, a ripple fin that spins, creating it’s own airflow. 
) 