[GB-Feedback] Supfire M6 Upgraded Version

Reserving this spot of when I get my light.

Manufacturer Recommended Changes:

  • Please don’t get rid of blinkie modes. Please just hid them. I live in the woods and strobe can be useful in scaring off predators. SOS can be useful for getting help.

reserved place first since the light will arrive soon

Well, I’ve had this light for a week now and it is still stock. The driver (at least the UI) has to go. Everything else I like about this light.
I had a stupid moment the resulted in a melted spring. I loaded three cells right, one cell wrong. Tightened it up and turned it on. Seemed bright but not like normal. Opened it up and noticed a negative end sticking up. DOH!!!
That tail spring is now a shorty compared to the others. Didn’t seem to damage anything else, and the cell is OK. I think the resistance in the spring got so high from the heat it sort-of limited the current. In this case, It was probably a good thing I could not get the tailcap off to mod the springs. :open_mouth:
I like the reflector and emitter centering/positioning is about perfect.
The switch retaining ring and the tripod screw insert were both loose and easily tightened.
Bezel is brushed stainless steel.
Machining is very good, threads are large and well cut.
Ano is even and seems tough, but maybe a bit shiny.
Out of all the four-cell parallel lights I have (two SRKs, an Apex 5T6, and this M6), the M6 is the only one where the batteries rattle.
Slightly longer and heavier than an SRK.

Overall, this is a very nice light. Someday I will mod it with new emitters and a new MCU for better UI.

I be numba 7 :crown:

I did a first impressions post here. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20446#new

Overall I like it. I wish I was into modding, but this light does pretty well in stock configuration. Well worth the money, thanks Pulsar for the group buy!

Jim

Did some testing on one of mine: Supfire M6 First Impressions Review

I posted this in the main thread, but it probably belongs here.

Light itself is nice. Pretty bright, actually suprised me.

Cons:

- Emitter pedestal is a little on the this side, but solid nonetheless…

- Driver UI is bad with press and hold for off (much too long)

- Protected cells are very snug inside, too tight for comfort

- Mine has some bruises under anodizing (Pre-anodizing so looks like a dent)

  • AND dings on top of anodizing (missing coating so metal is seen)

Pros:

-Built well with good contacts
-Good reflector surface
-Decent finish (besides blems on mine) bezel looks nice
-Threads are good and lubed
-Nice lens GITD oring.

All in all, very decent at the price point. Would like to see a better off option though, it realllllllyyyyyyy turns me off on this light.

Just received mine today. It is just plain SICK-O bright. And it even appears to maintain that same crazy brightness even with only 1 cell inserted. Well worth the price. Thanks again to Pulsar.

Here are my wishlist items:

  • XM-L2 neutral white bin please!
  • Why not throw in a fourth LED while you’re at it? J)
  • Slightly more aggressive knurling in place of the current hatch pattern
  • Confirmation of transition between lockout and connected modes in the threads. Like some sort of a detente that requires a bit more effort to overcome to indicate that it is entering or exiting lockout mode

And my list of things I don’t like:

  • Terrible packaging. Light bouncing around inside the box all the way from China, miracle it made it intact.
  • Non-hidden flashy modes
  • Cycle through all the modes to turn off or hold for several seconds. (It would be best to use a two-stage button like in a camera, half-press to change modes, full press for on/off, long hold to access strobe)
  • Button has a lot of lateral play to it, as though it was loose. Button feels cheap and doesn’t appear to be waterproof.
  • Tailcap scratched and chipped in several areas, possibly due in part to it sitting directly against the side of the box that I cut open. Again, a bit of foam or a lot more bubblewrap would prevent this
  • Glossy “wet paint” style finish feels cheap
  • “SOS” mode doesn’t say “SOS”, just gibberish

All in all, a fantastic light. I think I’ll be getting a lot of use out of it.

SOS mode on both of mine is OK. Then I put one of my custom SRK drivers that lets the user program the Morse code message into one… it now says “FORK YOU”… or something close to that.

I did not buy one - but I would have for sure IF

3a per led on high
XML2 neutral white
higher pwm

I picked up redforest uk’s light, from what little playing I’ve done I like it, it takes the fat protected sanyo cells I like, the off delay I just over come by locking the light out.

I’d also seen this driver

that I’m curious about.

There are many things to like about the light:

Looks great and not too bulky grip. No sharp edges, good threads, lubed threads, titanium bezel, thick lens, tripod mount, beefy driver circuit holder that can be unscrewed, no super thin wires, easy to resistor mod, large and secured mcpcb with thermal paste, good heat transfer to body, full reflectors adds more throw, the reflector size is also maximized to their full potential. Reflector is nicely built, GIT O-ring, no PWM whine, etc...

User interface is the largest downside. These simple changes would have made the light MUCH better IMO.

-Shut off from all modes by holding button for about 0,75 sec (not 3 full seconds)

-Hidden stobe and sos (Maybe 3 quick presses would be a nice way to go into the blinky modes group?)

-Higher high 2,8A stock would be nice (but just as easy to resistor mod), lower medium (25%), lower low (2%).

-PWM frequency could be higher.

-Fix SOS

Some nitpicking on the exterior that could be improved:

-Remove Chinese signs and numbers below button.

-Less glossy and tougher anodizing.

-More recessed switch, currently its flush. Would be better if it was slightly recessed (1mm or so)

-Not sure if I like the tail, would prefer it flat and shorter. That would remove the lanyard hole. Maybe add a detachable lanyard ring that could be properly mounted with a screw. One that did not make the grip uncomfortable.

Other:

- Not sure how the tail is secured, but I was not able to get it off with my hands (have not tried much much though). Everything should be easy to unscrew.

- Update emitters. (XM-L2 T6 4C should reach a broad audience.)

I think you’d have to convert the light from parallel to series for that driver to work. If you have a plan, I’m listening.

I’ve only briefly looked at the star, I was thinking the same thing though, it seems to be a series driver.

that’s not so bad if your planning a little work anyway, like 3 copper stars for arguments sake, then, its just a case of daisychaining the wiring + to - around the ring and planning your star mounting in advance. I was intending to sit the new stars on the reflector, colour the stars back face so that when I clamp down I get an impression on the mounting face.

Drill and tap for the stars, remove, polish, remount, wire, assemble, cross fingers, hit magic button and hope for hi cri goodness :bigsmile:

Yes, it sounds like a lot of work, because it is, but I think it’ll be worth it.

edit. sorry pulsar, I broke your rules, when I’m not driving I’ll take this over to racer86’s m6 mod thread to keep this one clean, I would ask that others do the same as this is supposed to be a feedback thread for supbeam, hopefully though, they will follow everything up to produce a real kick arse v3 m6

Just got mine in a box with a single layer of bubble wrap, no bubble left of course. :slight_smile:

Does anyone know how to access the LED’s?

I think I’ll just dedome them because I just can’t stand the ugly tint.

Thanks RaceR, appreciate it. :slight_smile:

Heh, can’t seem to open it. I need to turn it counter clockwise, right? hmm…

Werner: Oh no, the PCB is already under a pool of gasoline. I’ll try to take a photo if the domes don’t fall off. :slight_smile:

Sorry, the domes fell off, couldn’t take a photo with them.

But the tint is much better in my opinion. It’s pure neutral white, warmer than the zombie CW. :smiley:

It looks something like this, but I’m having trouble accurately capturing both the tints.

The left is a CW Crelant V31A at high, and on the right is the dedomed m6 at medium.

I chose the Crelant V31A because it had a lot of spill like the M6.

In reality, the V31A is very blue to my eyes, and the M6 is neutral, perfectly free of any color, just pure white.

Please make a photo before and after dedoming.

No problem, then you have to paint a beforepicture with words so that I can imagine the tint and spill shift… :wink: here was a thread with some nice detailed pictures of a dedomed srk anyway which should be similiar…

I have to find a suitable handle for the light first anyway. After that I will open it up and play with the internals…

Handle for Supfire M6

Reserved for updates, however I will say that I wish that my shipping was a bit faster (it still only shows acceptance in china...).

Low battery detection is weird. It blinks fast stays on a second blinks fast stays on …and then changes to low mode….
Seems good…
But the problem is you can’t abort the blinking crap with a button press, or long button press.
And if you switch off after the blinking sequence and later on again it makes the same weird blinky bill sequence again….

But it has working undervoltage warning at 3V that’s a good thing.