Inspired by the recent Old-Lumens thread, I thought I’d have a go at making a 3AA Holder for one of my cut down 1D Maglites.
This is my first effort, using materials I already had, and is really a proof of concept rather than a polished design.
It turns out the disk cut out with one of my hole cutters matches exactly the diameter of my Mag (n.b. this has been bored for 4AA). As I had some hardwood available, that was going to be used, probably better to use Nylon or Delrin, but I need to order some first!
So 2 disks cut out of the hardwood plank I had, then I used a flat wood bit I had, I didn’t have a 15mm bit so used a 16mm bit, again proof of concept.
Cut the joining parts out of copper sheet, which I bought to fix a cheap plastic 3AA holder, again quick and cheerful, next one I will spend time getting these to look pretty! All the parts are laid out:
The roofing bolt is to connect it all together and ensure good electrical contact
Fully assembled:
I need to shorten the end of the bolt, and maybe add a domed nut, I’m also going to use epoxy to fix all the parts in place.
Once I get around to purchasing a 15mm bit I will have a go at a 4AA one.
Overall took me about 2 hours. Works beautifully, need some better cells though, those Nimh ones are very old and only power up the xml U2 in the Mag for about 5 mins before the driver board cuts the output (an XTAR 18700 will power the same Mag for what seems like hours!)
Nice work. Do we blame Old Lumens creativity for again getting someone of the couch and into the shed. He must be held responsible and answer to someone. Keep it up Loris.
But I think it is awesome. I cant help but think about it like this:
You get your 15mm drill bit. You get hold of a nice stainless or brass center screw.
You cut new discs but still in hard wood. You make everything nice and aligned and smoothed out.
Build it and then apply Tru Oil or similar product to the wood. Some polish to the copper and brass.
And you have yourself a battery holder that looks like a million dollar battery holder.
I mean its already awesome. Why not make it totally retro awesome? You sure make it look like you have the skill and the perseverance already.
Anyhow - enough of my ramblings. I just like what you did. Thanks for sharing it with us
Well, I got to say that’s pretty wild!
Is the bolt actually the positive terminal? If so, most likely, the resistance thru that steel is eating up the batteries very fast. If you can solder, then a piece of heavy copper ground wire in place of the bolt, with a piece of copper sheet soldered on top for the head, would work well. Then you could thread the copper rod to the closest matching thread die and use a brass nut. I think 8 or 10 gauge wire would be about right.
Just an idea.
I love the wood man!
You don’t know how much I have wanted to make a wooden light! If I had a wood lathe I would. LOL
Yes, top of the steel bolt is +ve, only bit I’m unhappy with, I would like a copper dome nut, but the best I can find is a brass one, better than steel I suppose, I’m still working on a low resistance solution. Can’t solder the parts in place as then you wouldn’t be able to load the batteries, need to able to dismantle it.
As far as a 4AA holder goes, you have to take the positive from the bottom of the holder to the top, this is where the steel bolt will be more of a problem, I’ve been pondering a solution for a while now, threaded copper rod is where I’m heading towards.
I’m amazed at how well the wood works tbh, going to have a go at making it look pretty.
Why dont we all design a nice few battery holders and have some made ??? Also I have a plastic 4aa cap but I need copper strips made for it And it’s very easy for me to make I’ll post pics soon
That's why I suggested using a die to thread some 8 or 6 ga ground wire. Might be cheaper in the long run than buying threaded copper rod. The "head" could be soldered on before the rod was inserted thru the wood and the threaded end allows for your adjustment. All you need to look at are charts for the diameter of the wire versus the diameter of the thread die. I think 8 ga could be threaded for #8x32 if I am not mistaken.
If you were to do 4AA with that design, I might suggest that the + does not have to be at the bottom. Start with the first - (negative) at the top and just run a wire from that negative (right next to the center rod), down to the negative pad on the other end. Then the + will be on the top and the center rod does not have to be positive. That way, you could use any threaded rod, thread it into the wood (part way or blind hole) and run the rod thru the negative end, with a nut and that end is the adjustable end.
Sort of like this:
I don't know if I am explaining very well. I can see it in my mind, but it's hard to explain it. the Red circuit is + and the Green is -
It's all just a suggestion. Ultimately you need to do it the way you see is best. I am glad to see you working out your own design and I'm just throwing out ideas.
