Got This XM-L Headlamp Today

Hi ILF,

How is your charger? Have you tried it yet?

Mine is rated at 400mA, but I tested it delivering only about 250mA (in parallel -> 125mA / cell)

Sure it's "safe", but slow as ****.

Other than that, I'm starting to like this headlamp. A lot!

Did you check the terminating voltage on batteries, did it end charging at the right time?

I'm very much looking forward to your impressions of that next one when you receive it. It looks more compact and appears to have a more durable tilt mechanism, but I'm concerned that the small optic will not perform that well.

About the tilt mechanism of the headlamp you're reviewing in this thread, what's your impression of it? I have an XRE headlamp with very similar construction. Mine has what I assume is the same tilt mechanism, which broke after only a few uses. Basically, the part that protrudes from the base to interrupt the gear shaped part from turning freely (the swivel gear-stop) broke off. After it broke, it would only go full up or full down, but couldn't stop anywhere in-between. This XML light being heavier, I was afraid the same thing was likely happen even faster.

Here's the part that broke (pictured with my resistance hack fix) that I'm talking about:

Maybe that won't happen to this XML headlamp though, after all, it's not just OK, it's UltraOK.

Yes, quite. Both cells were 4.22V straight after charging.

And re-plugging the charger worked as it should: Red light (& 110mA) for a second, then turns back to green (& zero mA).

I just ordered that second headlamp (link in post #1). I sent a best offer of $24 and they came back with $26.50. I bought it and the estimated delivery says "On or before May 7th per eBay Fast 'n Free". Really? How can they ship it to me that fast? I'm assuming it's coming from China or Hong Kong. Oh well, if it does I'll be surprised.

Now about running on 4AA's rather than 3AA's. Do you think this is just burning off the extra voltage of the 4th cell? Or is it bucking the extra voltage and really gaining in runtime from the added 4th cell? Or is it perhaps using a 4th cell to be able to run on alkalines? I know we can't know for sure without someone getting it and testing it, but what would be your guess?

-Garry

My guess would be that under the load of an XML, they're expecting the voltage of the 4AA to sag quite a bit and the thin wires and all the contacts to add a fair amount of resistance, and so they've probably used a regulator, not a buck driver. I'm also guessing that they regulate it to 2A or less to keep from burning your forehead. Judging by the size and the plastic construction, I wouldn't expect the LED to be driven at 3A anyway (for which you'd need 4 Eneloops, alkaline AAs wouldn't cut it). Actually, an XML driven to 2A from 4 alkaline AAs would make for a very nice headlamp, IMO. I'm mostly curious about the output from the optic on that one.

Ok, I wouldn't expect it to be driven to 3A, and I don't want it driven that hard. I liked the floody beam profile shown in the photos. The battery contacts do seem a bit low quality.

Even if the 4th battery isn't adding much (ie. a waste and could have been driven on 3AA), at least it's easier to deal with charging 4AA's instead of 3AA's!

-Garry

I tried to add 4th AA battery to my cheapo XR-E(XP-E?) headlamp and at first it was really brighter, got really HOT and after some minutes beam became purplish, so I turned it off and never tried to use 4xAA again with it.

I was using Eneloops and it seemed like it wont take long for the led or driver to burn down.

Sounds good.

I will have to keep this option in mind when asked again for high-output headlamps.

that second one w/ aspheric looks like it slides out of its mount. If that's true, and it will tilt farther forward than they show, I'll have to buy that.

I want to be able to wear it in the harness on my head but also mount it to the brim of a hat.

I've modded a couple single AA flashlights from reflector to aspheric and for my purposes (and when the emitter is the right distance from the lense) that makes a perfect beam for ~20ft and under - ie not so wide as to waste light, and no hotspot that makes your eyes adjust or makes you turn your head so the hotspot isn't on what you're looking at.

nice find!

hopefully it is well made, and it is easy to add a removeable extension cord so I can have the option of pocketing the batteries.

I sure hope it comes that quick, gary. I'm sure you'll let us know. If its good I should have time to get one for a gift (memorial day).

I just bid one at $20.50 from ebay. It looks like the same as your pic!

Well you know you got am impressive headlamp when your 20yr old son says get me one dad. So dad did. I'm loving this headlamp.

What I wish they would do is put a Keygos KE5 head with XM-L emitter and drive it about at 2.5 amps. That would be one impressive headlamp.

The flashlight gods were conspiring again tonight while I was grilling some steak. My backyard flood bulb blew, so I quickly reached for my headlamp reserved for bar-b-que, which promptly fell apart as I tried to change from zoom to flood (not the one I showed above with the repaired tilt, that one stays in the car). Before fixing the BBQ headlamp, I sniped one of these lights that the OP is about. Here's hoping I don't kill the tilt on that one. I guess I'll retire the BBQ headlamp into the wife's car.

*edit*

I forgot to ask... do the batteries go in serial or parallel? The seller never shows that in the pictures and the operating voltage isn't mentioned. I'm hoping serial, so I can use LiFePO4 cells.

I just received an email from the seller that I purchased this XML headlamp from (Song of eBay ID poozoo), answering my question above. To quote him directly,

" the batteries is parallel, and the input current is 1.5A and you can't use 3.0V instead of 3.6V 18650 batteries"

I guess I'll pull the AW IMR18650 from my FandyFire 3900 (3x XML light) for this headlamp and replace the cells in that light with the A123 high drain LiFePO4 cells I had intended to use in this one.

i hit one for 17.53usd

That's a steal.

I'm telling you it's without a doubt one of the best $25 headlamps on the market.

I'm awaiting your thoughts on it. I'm just going to wait to see your approval or not before I buy.

I will be sure to post back when I receive it. I'll probably do a quick review with photos in a new thread and link to it in this thread. Don't hold your breathe for a Mon May 7th delivery; it shipped China post on May 1st.

-Garry

Got the headlamp I ordered! New thread started here.

-Garry

Today, I received the headlamp the OP is about. I won the eBay auction for ~18-19 USD, including an AC charger that plugs into the battery compartment that I'm not likely to ever use. My first impressions of the headlamp are good. It's basically the bigger brother to the 3AAA zooming XRE headlamp that I already own (pictured in one of my posts above). By that I mean there are obvious similarities in appearance, design and function between the two. I'd say this is the evolutionary result of that light and guess that it might even be made on the same assembly line.

For example, the driver has the same modes and Vin range and the light uses the same soft push-button operation. I'd venture a guess that it's the same driver possibly set for slightly higher output. I measured 930mA on high and 0mA (or at least, an immeasurable amount of current drain to my DMM) when powered off. There's probably no compelling reason to remove the cells when not in use. Sorry, I didn't notice what the draw was on low, but I think I might have seen 160mA on the DMM, which sounds about right based on output.

The straps and battery compartment are very much like the older light, with the obvious additions in the newer light: top strap, 2x parallel 18650 instead of 3x serial AAA, and a rear facing red LED that mimics the modes of the main, forward facing lamp.

Unfortunately, the tilt-stop mechanism also bears a very strong resemblance to the one that broke in the smaller light. This one is slightly more robust. The part that broke off last time (the gear-stop, as I've been calling it) appears, in this light, to be a separate piece mounted in a socket of some kind. Here's hoping it can withstand more use than its predecessor.

The whole rig is lightweight and comfortable. The head is constructed of just enough metal to feel sturdy without feeling heavy or bulky. The base accommodates a standard 20mm star. It, the rest of the head and the bezel are Aluminum and the lens is glass. There are gaskets where the head meets the base and where the bezel meets the glass. The switch housing is plastic. I haven't left it on for very long yet, but at this drive current, I doubt that heat will be an issue, even if you're stationary and indoors. The SMO reflector's ID a the lens is ~30mm. Paired with the XML emitter, it provides a well defined hotspot that's good for all purpose use. It's not a thrower, but not a floodlight either.

I have slight reservations about sledding down a hill or falling off a bicycle with 18650s strapped to the back of my head, and for that reason would have preferred if I could have used two LiFePO4 cells in serial, instead of 2 IMR cells in parallel, but I think the observations I made about the driver explain why that was not an option.

All in all, I'll be very satisfied with the purchase if it holds up after a few real uses.