Tl;Dr: Pricing, size, NTG35 4200K LEDs, and overall performance are great. The aesthetics and pocket clip are phenomenal. The UI is a headache to set up but then it works very well. The switch and build quality are good. Just be aware you’ll need a separate battery and dedicated charger. I didn’t expect to find myself reaching for this KR3 instead of my usual Zebra SC65. It’s so cool and fun in a way my Zebra isn’t. Hank knocked it out of the park with this one.
How do you set it up? Like, personally, with your preferences. What would you do to improve it?
My usual new-light process is…
I’d love it if these settings were default, but the factory defaults are a mix of what the manufacturers want and what seems best for new users. And I need to do most of my testing with default firmware, so I go through the setup process almost every time I reflash.
Clip score: 7/7 – The score doesn’t do it justice. This is peak pocket clip.
You should have seen the original KR4 clip. It was terrible. And so was the v2 he was thinking about making. So I designed a better one and sent the info to Hank, making sure to explain why I made it this way, like why the landing point should be on the body tube, not the head, and on a flat area with the correct angle, etc. He then improved it even more by adding a gentle curve which follows the body tube. And now it’s the standard clip on all his KR lights.
This is what I asked him to make… (the black line, not the 2-way clip)
… and then this is what he actually made:
My default setup is:
I don’t necessarily think you need to change anything. Maybe just disabling post-off-voltage-display and disabling smooth steps by default. There are just a lot of optional features and that necessitates a lot of settings to work through. There’s no UI setup on an Olight because there are no UI options.
So you’re to thank for the awesome clip! I’m so glad you talked him into it. It’s so nice. I can’t think of a single thing I’d change.
Interesting. You prefer to check battery status manually with Batt Check mode?
I’ve been going kind of the opposite direction, using Batt Check less and making POVD more precise instead. Now it has a “smooth POVD” on some lights, with 0.02V resolution… and I’m thinking about making it more like 0.001V resolution to reduce oscillation amplitude when it’s right between two colors. Basically a totally smooth sweep across the rainbow to indicate battery full-ness.
Recharge when it’s orange-ish or below, stop charging when it’s solid blue or purple-ish.
The older 6-color indicator is still used for standby mode though, since it can’t do PWM while it’s asleep. Plus, I find the combination more informative than either one alone.
Yep. I like the manual battcheck mode. I don’t find the color spectrum very intuitive, the random different color for a few seconds is distracting, and I don’t check battery often. That’s probably just me though; I know a lot of people are way more particular about battery health/status than me.
To me having the ability to quickly see batteries levels at one glance is one of the biggest selling feature of anduril 2. Great time saver.
I feel exactly the same way! One of the best things about Anduril is there is no single right way to use it and it accommodates differing preferences.
You are a despicable monster who is using Anduril wrong.
You are a despicable monster who is using Anduril wrong.
Oh just you wait. I’m about to set up my stepped ramp with 150 steps… /s
I used to do that sometimes… for testing purposes. It was helpful for tuning the ramp shape, so I could go through the steps very slowly.
But then I added the smooth ramp speed option. Now I generally just set the smooth ramp speed to 10 or 20 when I want to fine-tune the ramp steps. Was doing that just a few minutes ago, to eliminate a bump in the ramp by tweaking the “gear” ratios.
mad science! 
and here I thought there were only 4 possible ramp speeds:
Who knew? 
Great review
Love your beam comparing slider pics
Also really appreciate your runtime chart, lets me see the thermally sustainable output. I set my ceiling near that level (you report 400 lm is the sustainable output for the KR3)
agree
Any time I use my Zebras, I miss Anduril and go back to it
atm Dual Channel Anduril is my jam.
same.. and I lower ceilings below pocket burn level (which ime is at ~600 lm)
although instead of completely disabling POVD on my single channel Anduril lights, I have been using option 3 and 4 of the POVD menu to disable POVD only on steps 1 and 2…
here is how I keep track of a my KR1AA options:
same, I calibrate batt check voltage to a DMM..
I also check resting temperature with an IR thermometer, and recalibrate accordingly…
I find default temperature is often off substantially (sometimes as much as 15F too low)
hahaha
I’m going to set my floor to 50, my ceiling to 30, and 73 steps just to see if my light explodes.
I will also set my aux to green in high and then complain about the DUV as if it were my main beam.
It will probably bug out. It doesn’t attempt to ensure that the values are sane. That is left as an exercise for the user.
This is also part of why it has a Factory Reset function. If the user does something crazy, or if the eeprom gets corrupted, factory reset can generally fix it.
