Any updates?
I would be very interested in this light if you do the following
I will buy 10-20 pieces of this light if
1. Fully potted light like the C01
2. Use nichia C 4000k or Samsung LH351D high CRI LED 5000k
3. Removable battery and NOT build in battrey
4. 2 way pocket clip
5. Copper and Titanium and brass version
6. NO more than 10$
7. tail-stand
8. keychain hole
9. No PWM
10. Very small
Barry will push to have this be the first project after Chinese New Year.
Also, there is a proposal to have different middle brightnesses for the two groups: eg. Group 1: 1LM - 15LM - 160LM; Group2: 160LM - 50LM - 1LM
This would have the dual benefit of offering a higher middle brightness for those who want it, or want a lower “high” with longer runtime, all while keeping the user interface simple. I like it.
Hugh Johnson A higher middle brightness might satisfy your request, and you can keep the High mode for very brief “turbo” use. I think that’s quite a useful format.
Nichia Of course it will be very small and have a keychain hole, though I doubt your full list will make the final cut. eg. pocket clip doesn’t make much sense on a keychain light, and exotic materials will cost more than 10USD, though Barry did indicate that can be an option for an additional cost.
To me, the Olight i1R 2 EOS is nearly perfect except for two points: the emitter is too cold, and the battery is not replaceable. If this project addresses those while maintaining the other advantages, I will consider it a success. Raw/clear anodization would be the icing on the cake.
Thanks! All the points you made sound good to me
In such a small twisty I think three modes on the way up and three modes on the way down is overly optimistic. you’ve got to keep the o-ring from getting exposed when it’s loosened enough to be securely off. There’s only so much room for travel in the threads. Apparently part of the reason olight made their new 2 model so it does not fully come apart is because people were losing the head while it was attached to keys and such. As in unscrewing itself and falling off. I find that hard to believe but I don’t have mine hanging next to keys. I have mine hanging on a loop of paracord from a belt loop high in a front pocket. If they can’t make three modes then a 5/150 would be good. But it’s got to be warmer than Olight i1r. The i1r2 is too cool. And has less throw which is noticeable at anything beyond 10 ft mostly because of a much wider beam pattern. I prefer the i1r over the i1r2.
It’s no problem because of the different types of twisties. Olight uses a mechanical twist, where modes are selected by the rotational position. This project is likely to use an electronic twisty switch like the C01S, where the mode changes are made by making/breaking contact, similar to e-switches.
My one concern is that the operation must be flawless, and not exhibit flakiness noticed with the C01S as described here: How solid is the twist operation of your C01S (or variant)?
Actually I really love the wide beam of the i1R 2. I think it makes a lot of sense for a keychain light. I don’t find the throw bad, only slightly less, which doesn’t make any practical difference in my opinion. I just wish they didn’t choose such a cold LED. The i3E’s color temperature looks much nicer.
Id be interested. Is it 12g with the battery or empty?
great idea!
That weight target is with the battery for an aluminum version. Other materials will be heavier. Also note the battery, likely a 10180, would come included.
phouton, perfect!
I’ve been carrying an Olight i1E 2 EOS for the past few weeks on my keychain and it is exactly as phouton mentions. I love the size, the lumens and the recharging port under the head and not with a rubber plug. I’ve no idea what anodizing it has, but I don’t mind the scratches mine has received after living in my pockets for a few weeks.
If the battery were replaceable and if it had a warmer tint, I’d like it even more and would grab a few more for jacket pockets and family members.
Let’s hope Sofirn can make one that solves Olight’s drawbacks.
USB C would certainly be nice with this, though only if it works with native C-C setups, not only A-C. Sofirmn’s LT1 doesn’t, which is not ideal.
Interested in 1.
Okay. 
Quantity I would buy: depends on the end product.
Suggestions
Emitter: SST-20 (buyer can choose between 5000K 70CRI or 4000K 95CRI)
Reflector/Optics: pebbled 30° TIR
Charging: USB (micro or C)
Battery: Built in Pouch LiPo 200 mAh.
Modes: LOW, MID, HIGH, (TURBO?).
Brightness: 10, 30, 100, (300?) Lumen (for 70CRI)
Dimensions: as small as possible.
Price: $15
Other: No PWM buck driver.
Nitecore TIP user interface is close to perfection, with the 2 buttons.
Magnetic tailcap like TIP2 (covers USB port)
Rovyvon / Tiki shape
No extra side LED nonsense.
Recently I got an interesting idea for a light that somewhat resembles TINI in overall shape…but is actually quite a bit different…
This is a small, boxy high performance flooder.
The optics would be CF-10 strong negative fresnel lens (or similar) cut to cover the whole front.
Why?
- Negative aspherics are bad for throw. But we’re making a flooder so it should be OK?
- Negative fresnels have grooves on the inside. This way they don’t need another lens for protection, improving on cost, size, performance and complexity
- This particular lens is quite strong. CF-20 (or similar) might actually work better.
The LEDs:
2x2 array of Nichia E21A for superb colour quality with high output and fair efficacy. The lens should be able to deal with the donut hole.
Like TINI, the driver would be flex PCB folded to fit over LiPo cell.
Unlike TINI I belive it would be worthwhile to have the LED resting on MCPCB with a shelf in the host for proper thermal transfer.
Note that with a 2 lenses side by side it would be possible to double the number of LEDs. Though it would add some cost…
It’s mainly a matter of mechanics.
I have a TIP and a TINI and the TIP has the best switches.
They need some pressure, unlike the TINI buttons, to click.
Would be even better if they were recessed a little.
Sounds interesting. Waiting for final product.
Asking enthusiasts about a mini keylight is asking like inviting over a 5 star chef to a backyard BBQ.
I needed such a light and WasaFire fitted the bill.
My needs were: robust, small, rechargeable, best battery life to emitter output, and cheap $.
So far (after some 3 weeks use); holds up to wear and tear, bright floody light more than 50 but less than 100 lumens. In the cool white spectrum but that’s expected with this emitter (XPG R5). It has but one mode, drawing some 90 mA on an 80 mAh battery. I would guesstimate that would be a runtime of about 1 hour. Good enough for short bursts (finding the door keyhole, checking within a drawer, etc.). Its better than my phone’s LED.
If and when a BLF / Sofirn model does come out, I’d be interested.
I would probably buy 2.
More interested in about 1 hour runtime and high CRI over high output.
I use my nitecore tip mostly in the datacenter to identify cables.
A Micro-USB or USB C port would required.