Most people don’t have more trouble remembering LMH vs HML; and most people can use a bright light without needing to start off in the brightest mode every single time. They like to avoid needing to :
which sometimes doesn’t work, because the highest mode after going through your hand can be much brighter than a proper ultra low mode.
Not all of them, but some ramping lights and any ramping lights with newer firmware will often come with a simplified UI mode (“muggle mode”) which lobotomizes the light so that people feel better about it. The emisar firmware seems simple enough already; a non-techie just has to know that you hold to change brightness and click to turn on and off.
Useless? I don’t know if you realize this, but there’s plenty of lights that used to and are unable to run at full brightness indefinitely, but they never called that turbo. Without thermal protection, you couldn’t use them for long without checking how hot they were manually and maybe stepping the brightness down if it was too hot. The modern lights with a turbo mode can actually manage that all on their own, and in the q8 for instance, if you put an up to date version of anduril on, you can even put it in turbo mode and have it regulate itself to put out the max brightness that it can without overheating, rather than just stepping down and never stepping back up. And it’ll run for a fair while on turbo with the mass that it’s got. The d4 is a well known example of a light that can go way beyond what’s sustainable, but you might not realize that even ~700 lumens might be too much to sustain, depending. And the fw3a might only make it to 3-400 lumens if you have to have it be able to run like that indefinitely. Personally though, I don’t think many of us only buy lights that are not able to go to a higher brightness than their steady state thermal limit. Almost all lights can get pretty toasty if you let them.