HD2010 Throw in Lux?

Throwers require longer distances for the beam to collimate. Some of our more serious throwers like my dedomed TN31 or my brothers modded shocker take about 10M to fully collimate. Distances over that are consistant with what we found at 10.

I measure mine at 15 feet (five meters). Stock was 27k. Just put an L2 in and now have 41k. Highly recommended. Those L2s are picky emitters with existing drivers though. Some actually put out less than the existing T6s, but others like the 2010 really take off.

Why does everyone get in so close on their lux measurements? You would never use the light that close, or am I missing the point as always?

I remember your thread about those darned XML2s and how they weren’t making your lights brighter. Glad they work well in the HD! Did you do other mods in addition to the emitter swap?

I think the 1m thing is the industry standard, but it doesn’t work so well for throwers apparently.

>>>>>>Did you do other mods in addition to the emitter swap?

Yes, but it seems quite a few of these lights take weird-sized drivers or emitters or other issues that prevent an easy mod.

I think THINK the key is that the L2 needs more than 2.8 amps to really do much, at least it does with the lights I have modded. Of course, you also have to figure in there the “who knows” factor about the emitter itself, as in “who knows” whether it’s really an L2 or not. (the lck-led L2s I got seem reasonably white; the fasttech 21mm-star L2s seem greenish.)

Last night I did a SkyRay A0 clone. Stock is 21k lux at 15 feet. Figured it was the perfect candidate because the driver was only like 1.7 amps. Wrong again.

The A0 clone with the L2 emitter (from fasttech) and a 2/5 2.8 driver, also from fasttech. Result? Exactly the same as stock. Well maybe 22-24k for an insignificant couple minutes. Then it settles down to 21k.

Why are they the same? You got me. Because ……

A few days ago, I did a Uniquefire C108. Stock = about 14k. That zoomed up to 21k with the L2 with the stock 2.5 a driver.

In the Home Depot super thrower with a 5-amp driver, I get like 42k with a U3 but 62k+ with an L2, so it really shines (pun intended) as the amps go up. But in the 2 amp - 3 amp range, it seems you can’t tell if it will make a difference until you do the mod.

And yes as someone said in some thread, the L2 does not seem to produce as tight a spot as the T6, at least the 10 or so I have tried. And it definitely sucks the battery down faster.

But as always, YMMV. Hope this helps.

We just need a standard way to measure lux so we are all on the same page.

I think Lux at 1m is useful for a quick comparison for the same lights.
You can always provide kcd measured at distance for a particular light.
Here’s a related topic from DrJones: lux, candela - proper terminology

:beer:

>>>>color of the LED’s substrate, not color of the star

Yes, you’re completely right. I should have said something like “who knows if they’re from the bottom of the bin?”

Actually (COMPLETELY off topic — sorry), has anyone else noticed this? If you put an L2 in a zoomer, the zoom-in of the emitter looks different than an T6. It has rows of +DOTS+, not the lattice work like the T6s … At least that is the case with two L2s I put in zoomers. So that’s another way to tell an L2 from a T6 I would imagine, unless my “dotty” L2s were unrepresentative for some odd reason.

>>>>Zoomies always show a projection of the die surface, when focused.

Yes, yes, but the emitter projection of the L2 looks much different than the T6. Instead of a latticework (don’t know how else to describe it) in the T6, the L2 has tiny dots in tiny squares. Six dots across by six dots down. I’ll see if I can post a picture later.

I only have my phone here which takes awful pictures, but here you can see the dots in the L2 emitter when used in a zoomer. Looks mucho different than the zoomed image of a T6 emitter.

Maybe luvlites would like to step in and tell everybody they are wrong again :slight_smile: LOL

It's all good -- that black one I posted the review on from TMART was a "hot" HD2010 - best I've tested, and I've been through quite a few of them. My distance testing is 4.3 meters, so if anything, I'm under quoting... The amps were pretty high - 26650 cells can get crazy in a direct drive HD2010. The trick with HD2010's is to not tighten down the pill - back it off from being tight by a turn or 2. Emitter fits better into the reflector, more throw, more lumens.

>>>>>The trick with HD2010’s is to not tighten down the pill - back it off from being tight by a turn or 2

Absolutely. It focuses the spot better.

What brand of 26650s are you using in the 2010? I just can’t get good numbers with anything protected. I get the best output in the 2010 (according to the lux meter) with unprotected pink 2600 samsungs (my new favorite battery) or Panasonic 2900s or Sanyo 2800s. Does better even than higher power panasonics and samsungs.

I believe my 2010 came from tmart, but WAY back when tmart just started. I bought it before I even finished reading the first review here on BLF, so I beleive it had to one of the first ones …. Then soon after the complaints started about people getting duds and bad ones.

I’m not sure if you have rounded up your measurements but 15 feet is 4.572 meters. This would make a fair difference if comparing to another persons readings.

>>>>I’m not sure if you have rounded up your measurements but 15 feet is 4.572 meters.

15 feet is what I meaure my lux readings at in a lightless room (garage) from a taped mark on the floor to a wall.

It’s my meter conversion that is off. I always think of it as three feet, but I guess it isn’t.

Being in one of the few countries that doesn’t use the same measuring system as everyone else on the planet has its disadvantages in spatial visualization. ;–0 If someone put a gun to my head and asked me how many mm are in an inch, I would have to take the bullet because I have absolutely no idea. Sorry for the disinformation.

Don’t forget to add a piece of copper desoldering braid in the tail-cap spring. In the HD2010, I gained maybe 5. In the Home Depot Super Thrower, I gained like 10. Well worth the 5 minutes.

Thanks Ubehebe, nice to know. I’d like to do this on my DST. Don’t have a HD2010 yet but gonna get one of those too.

Does the HD2010 have the potential to throw as well as the DST…hopefully with more lumens as well?

The HD2010 has an amazin reflector, very similar though to the SS T08 and maybe other lights in that same size. The DST's reflector is even bigger so should have more potential, but a fully mod'ed HD2010 does like 95-100 kcd w/dome, 200 kcd or so de-domed, and think I get in the 1,300's, maybe 1,400, for lumens w/dome.

So, as long as you don’t dedome, it won’t turn into a pencil-beam? Really, 1200 lumens and 60000 cd would be fine with me, if it would throw a C8-style beam.

No pencil beams from a HD2010 with an XM-L2, even when de-domed -- can't happen... I like de-domed XM-L2's in a HD2010 or SS T08 if you don't mind losing the lumens, and don't mind the neutral tint.