goodday,
I have a question for the experts and for those who fancy to help / answer me
I have a torch as the link with 2x18650.
I’m a new LED inplaatsen with slightly cooler light an XM-l2
it is a 3 mode light high-middle-strobe
I would like to turn the strobe / flash, can I? high-middle light
greet
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1609/10003889/1277803-cree-xm-l2-t6-1c-10w-6500k-1052lm-led-emitter
where are the + & - ?
the long strip plus right?
the short strip + above and - under ?
thx
.???
I didn’t understand everything you wrote…especially your second post is contradictory and weird
You want a cooler color temperature. why?
You want to replace your led with the fasttech one? Right?
The - and + are marked on the LED. You have to disassemble your light, unsolder the old star and solder in the new one.
Check which size the Alustar around the led has and order a leD with the same size.
The strobe can’t be disabled. You could modify everything but I wouldn’t recommend that for a beginner project…also you should consider that protected cells might not fit…
I’m going to replace the LED of the head lamp (I can solder) through better quality and colder light.
it becomes too difficult to modify them in mode 2. the headlamp
greetings and thanks for reply.
I haven’t see that star… do you have a DMM? if so, you can measure which are the pads. I bet they are the short strips
only cheap soldering tool low quality and to heavy for that work but i can it.
but if I removed everything from the box and replace with a driver like this (link) of the button would be on / off even work?
I would have low / medium / high power option.
greets
.
i dan’t need the battery charge option with the cheap loader .
i gonne charge 2x Panasonic 3400 with one jetbeam i4 pro .
greets
What’s the point with the led? Strips??? Whaaaaaat? The linked led above is a standard star, with two solder pads, one marked with - and one with +. What’s the problem?
—————-
For the driver you need a normal switch which disconnects the battery and the batteries have to be in parallel. I guess the headlamp has just a momentary switch which will not work.
But you could add a switch in the battery compartment and bypass the electronic switch. If you need a driver with ability for momentary switches contact drJones. The wires are probably very thin, so if you want max power you need to replace them too…
Which batteries do you plan to use? Don’t buy any *fire branded batteries they are almost always crap.
I don’t know these stores you linked, what about this selection
Of headlamps…
There are some reviews which could be helpful.
Wow, that is a goood price on this headlamp. I paid $17 from FT. Is cndirect.com good to deal with?
Anyone here deal with them?
Btw, the driver is in the battery compartment. The star should be super easy to replace.
The Fasttech version has good led efficiency and color. I did add my own variable resistor, inline between battery and controller. 1.6amp/350ma/strobe , too high and too low for me. Now I have full range of drive level from 11ma to 1.6 amp. The light is best for work at 560 to 700 ma , imho. 11 ma for reading.
headlight like that.(model i like)
no problem with+ - for the star by fasttech ,batteries i use are 2x Panasonic 3400 protection load with jetbeam i4 pro (have it after 2 weeks i hope)
@degarb
maybe the driver (on the battery compartement ) are good enough for the new led ?
greets
Do you already have this headlamp?
If yes then you need to disassemble it and check which diameter the star has.
Standard sizes are 16mm and 20mm.
the star = 20 mm werner ,i waiting for the new ledstar i buy by fasttech (cooler,better quality and more brighter)
Lol
Hmm. I think own http://www.cndirect.com/new-1600lm-18650-cree-xm-l-xml-t6-led-headlamp-rechargeable-headlight-charger-adapter.html which is a bit different. I see my has a better crown on forehead for more comfortable balance. Trust me.
I am thinking of buying another, ripping out the controller, adding a third 18650 on the front (to make it a 3 cell in parallel experiment), and putting in a variable controlled 700 ma max buckpuck. To give me over 13 hours runtime on flat regulated max 5300 candela (270ish lumens), and a ton more runtime up to hundreds of hours when backing off. … I like the 2s, but if I can get a weight and size that works, would then have the runtime I really want.
I will measure the star, when I get around to it, and post back. I looked like a standard old star, like my lux1 brinkman’s star of 2005. Then again, I am not sure how different these two models really are.
because I remove the upper stretcher and wear it on a boonie hat there is no balance disorder contrary, your hat is better sitting
the light output of the lamp head is about the same but you are referencing heavier.
I also prefer the button on the place as my lamp shown.
The runtime is enough with two good batteries for the fish to the sea and the light is not on full-time high.
always a spare bulb and some bateries in reserve.
I have the emitter replaced by a new one from fasttec
it is whiter and the light is more apparent / blink in.
the emitter that was in it was an xml u2
closer look apparently it was a xml2 ….?
the dots were in the emitter and no dashes
I placed him in a c8 with 2.8 amp (2groups nanjg driver) and what a difference!
much more light, better color, more blinky
The driver of the headlamps are waarschijnlek so poor and under powered as many cheap flashlights.
I bought a head lamp and replace everything: driver, switch, I find it out 