i have bought the torpedo AA-host, but i don’t understand how the tailcap switch is supposed to be assembled.
here are some pictures of the parts:
how are they supposed to be put together?
i have bought the torpedo AA-host, but i don’t understand how the tailcap switch is supposed to be assembled.
here are some pictures of the parts:
how are they supposed to be put together?
I don’t know, but I’m glad you asked because I have two of those ordered as well!
P.s. It doesn’t look like there’s much hope for that thing to tail stand, does it?
i first ordered one from cnqg along with the S1/S2/S3 GB, but cancelled the order and ordered from intl-outdoor.
Somehow i got one from both stores, so i have two of them now.
i think they look good, and i’m thinking of using one with a red xp-e (torpedo-submarine-red lights…), the other one would probably look good with a NW xp-g2, if i get around to order one…
Looks pretty straight-forward to assemble, but you will need to do some soldering. Switch rubber goes in tailcap hole. Washer goes on top of the switch -> switch soldered to PC board side with the silkscreen switch image (bend over switch leads just enough to make good contact and cut off excess) -> spring soldered to other side. Switch assembly installed into tail cap and copper washer is screwed in after to secure everything.
Just like kwarwick said, but I would solder the spring on before the switch so that the underside of the switch doesn’t melt :_(
So i bend the legs of the switch (like a L i guess?) until i can solder them to the pads along the edge? And then i cut off excess metal from the legs.
And first i do the spring, and then afterwards i should probably do a review since i’m not sure anyone done one so far…
Not the greatest picture, but something like this:
Bend the legs over at a 90 degree and cut them off when they are about level with the bottom of the switch. Cut a bit too long if you are unsure and then sit the switch on the board and see if the switch sits flat and the lead are touching the solder pads… fine tune the length until you get what you want and then solder the switch to the board. Don’t use too hot a soldering iron or let it heat the leads for too long as you risk melting the plastic body of the switch.
Yes, and bend them only where shown in that pic. If you try to bend it at the wide part, flush with the switch body, it will distort the contacts on the inside and the switch won't work.
Ok, thanks for the advice! I’ll see if i can try your advice tomorrow
The pad without the holes has a trace which leads to the center pad (spring), and the pad with the holes connects to the outer ground ring on the other side. When you turn the light on, the connection will be made, joining the center (spring) with the outer ring. The battery tube is screwed down on the outer ground ring completing the circuit.