Help please - new Tangsfire C8

Hello. Got my Tangsfire C8 today, and really happy with this purchase! Love the beam, nice switch, the strobe will blind anything. Exact same body as the KD C8, just a tad longer. What a terrific buy, thanks to the seller!

Here is a question, hoping someone can help. I took the bezel off and removed the lens and reflector, just playing around. Then I saw a little black square ring thing that had fallen out of somewhere, really small. I put the light back together without the black ring thing. It didn’t work! Somehow I figured out by a process of elimination that it must go around the emitter and base, so I placed it there (didn’t glue it) and got the light back together, and it works now. WHAT is the black ring? I hope someone can answer this. If not I will try and take a picture of it and post that.

thanks for any replies. Once again, fantastic buy, probably my best purchase for the doe.

s every time I take a light apart, something happens. I’ll leave the modding to others.

patrick

I think it keeps the aluminum reflector from shorting out the emitter. You were lucky.

It is to help the reflector to sit on the emitter and the emitter to be in the center of the reflector (centering ring it called). When you lost it, there might have been a short of the circuit. That was probably why it did not work.
Be careful next time. And you should check for signs of shorting. And try to prevent that from happening again. It can be dangerous to the battery and thus to you.
The reflector is metal, imagine what will happen if it touches both the + and -. :slight_smile:

I guess it prevents the pill getting in contact with the ± poles on the led.

I call it the LED centering plastic "thing". This is an example of a similar type: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001923/1576104-17-5mm-insulating-locator-for-cree-xm-l-t6-u2-led, or this:

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001923/1182004-insulation-gaskets-for-cree-xm-l-t6-led-emitters-1, or this:

http://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xml-led-reflector-positioning-gasket-10-pcs-p-457.html

You were lucky you didn't smoke the driver or LED - this usually separates the reflector from the + and - wire solder connections.

I got the same light and yes, that centering piece is tiny and loose! Easy to lose... Usually they fit tighter, and sometimes have an additionaly isolation gasket covering the solder connections.

These are White, not Black, but more like the Centering ring on the Tangsfire:

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001923/1581400

Edit:

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10001923/1581402

Oh, and yes, the reflector is aluminum and will short if it touches the positive lead on the LED …

thank you all for your replies. I guess I am lucky because when I tried to turn the light on without that centering piece, the light would come on and go off, and repeat that over and over. I’m a bit confused here. Can those who have this light chime in. To me it looks like even with the centering ring in place, there is the possibility of the reflector touching the + and - connections? Are the + and - connections BELOW the base of the circuit board, so that the reflector rests on that and won’t go any lower? Please take a look at my picture and compare this to yours and see if this looks ok, if I got the ring back in place? Can the ring go back only one way or could you put in on upside down? Is this ring supposed to be glued down? Why not just have a piece of plastic on the end of the refelctor to make sure it won’t short out? Maybe I should put a piece of tape on the end of the reflector? Here is the picture, sorry for the quality:

Once again, thank you for your replies … it’s nice to have help -

patrick

A lot of us cover the bottom of the reflector with Klapton tape to prevent shorts.

Did you get it from Tmart? If so, how long did shipping take, hopefully I get mine soon.

Yes, from Tmart. Ordered on the 2nd, shipped on the 5th, received on the 9th in California. Shipped from New Jersey.

I did, took 4 business days, shipped out on a Saturday iirc.

Are you happy with your light, unknown? Have any other c8’s to compare it with?

As I stated in my original post I’m very happy with this light. I have a KD C8, and a Keygos KE-5. My Keygos way outperforms my KD … and this Tangsfire and Keygos are very comparable to one another as far as I can tell. I will do some testing later but all I have are Trustfire 2400mAh. This light was a steal at that price in my opinion. This C8 and a Sipik 68 clone on a 14500, who couldn’t be happy with those! The strobe on this Tangsfire matches the one on the Keygos, they are the baddest I know of, but I only go to about 1000 lumens.

Well, I have yet to try a full charge panny PF. At 4.02v they pull 3.6A. Unprotected NCRB pull 3.55A at 4.14v. Both cells are brand new.

Seems a bit low to me, but that aside it compares pretty well 1:1 quality wise with my convoy c8 I got from fasttech. The only differences are xml2, smooth reflector, and tangsfire is slightly taller. I was expecting much more difference in beam pattern smooth vs op reflector, but it’s not that much different.

Pretty amazing light at $13. The convoy was $15.

Thanks guys.

@ saypat- Can you see what amps you are getting at the tail cap? All I have is TF 3000 batteries, Hoping to get at least 3. My other c8 is a ultrafire and only gets up to 1.5

I just fried a c8 ultrafire, took the reflector out forgot to put the spacer back in, now it flickers on low and thats it.Love the burnt smell too! Parts is parts.

Ouch, that hurts just hearing it. Sorry that happened. I fried my first C8 by tightening the bezel while it was on hi - it was a LightMalls C8 direct drive like this one, and probably was getting over 5 amps or so on a good Panasonic cell. The XML actually twisted on the MCPCB because of the softened solder under the LED from the heat because of the high amps. It was a good excuse for an upgrade mod.

Yeah, it hurt for a little afterwords. I’m going to try my hand at modding, slowly, eventually. I dont know anything about soldering small parts, I have alot to learn, I’ve only soldered copper pipe. I wouldnt mind rebuilding the c8 eventually. It seems like a really good hobbby.

Just ordered one of these TangsFire C8’s. Will see what it’s all about.

The centering ring also fell when I took my light apart minutes before reading this post. I remembered what it was for from reading previous months’ posts.

The photo on post #6 looks the same as mine.

I ordered my Tangsfire C8 from TMart on 3rd Jan. shipped from HK on 4th Jan. arrived to me in a regional city in AU on 8th Jan. How quick is that?

In a wall beamshot comparo the TMart Tangsfire C8 is brighter than a WB Convoy C8. I dont have taicap figures to compare as my new DMM has thin wires and I dont know what and how to replace them yet. It consistently spits a low reading.
Happy with my first purchase at TMart.