We’re a small team in the early stages of developing an EDC flashlight and also a tactical flashlight, and before we go any further, we want to hear from the people who actually use and care about these lights the most, you guys.
We’d love to hear your thoughts on a few things:
What features matter most to you in an EDC flashlight?
What are your biggest frustrations or deal-breakers with current EDC lights on the market?
Is there a feature you wish existed but no manufacturer has implemented yet?
What’s your ideal size, battery type, and price range for an EDC light?
No wrong answers here, whether it’s about the UI, emitter options, build quality, clip design, charging, pocket feel, or anything else, we want to hear it all.
Thanks in advance for your input. This community’s knowledge is unmatched and we genuinely want to build something that flashlight enthusiasts would be proud to carry!
EDC means many things to many people. For me it means something compact enough to actually carry daily with negligible changes to my routine that covers enough use cases to justify its existence without being a swiss army knife. I’m not looking for something high speed low drag.
As such I think that a 1xAA light made from typical threaded tubular aluminum is the ideal here. Make the diameter consistent head-to-tail. 2-3 well-spaced modes depending on output; power-interrupt UI is fine. A mechanical switch in the tail - ideally forward click but not critical. Can tailstand on its own. Optional keyring attachment. Multi-fuel ideal: alkaline, NiMH, Li-primary; li-ion is a bonus but not necessary. I don’t think a pocket clip is especially relevant for this size of light as it slips into a pocket easily enough, but could be made available so long it doesn’t make the light any larger. Reasonably water-resistant.
Not looking for enormous lumens, massive runtime, throw measured in kilometers. 200 lumens probably sufficient for max output - higher is fine so long as it doesn’t overheat or thermally throttle. Beam should be medium to wide since this will be a task light: navigating between home and vehicle, entering a dark room, doing a short-notice project. Reflector or TIR optic are both fine.
Emitter should be somewhere in the neutral range: 4000K-5000K with reasonable light quality. Avoid >5000K and garbage-tier CRI.
This is exactly the kind of feedback we’re looking for, really appreciate you laying it out so clearly.
The philosophy of “compact enough to carry daily with negligible changes to your routine” resonates with us a lot, and it’s something we want to keep at the core of this project. A light that just works without demanding attention.
A few follow-ups if you don’t mind:
For the 2-3 mode spacing, do you have a rough range in mind? Something like 5 / 50 / 200 lumens, or would you space it differently?
On the emitter side, do you have a preference between something like a Nichia 519A or Samsung LH351D in that 4000-5000K range, or is it more about the end result (good tint, decent CRI) regardless of brand?
For the tail switch, is a soft press momentary-on important to you, or is it more about the satisfying click and reliability of a mechanical switch?
Really valuable input, this is the kind of real-world, practical-use perspective we want to design around. Thanks!
5/50/200 seems like reasonable spacing to me. For an EDC light I really appreciate having a 50 lumen mode, it’s enough to be useful and still get good run times.
The Nichia 519 is a well-known and liked emitter here, I think most of us would rather pay a little more and get an emitter we know we’ll like.
For me I like the click and reliability if we’re having a tail switch.
A couple of other points, a constant current driver would be appreciated especially for an AA light where efficiency really matters.
It should be possible to disable mode memory so that the light optionally always starts on low.
My setup I’ve been happy with for a couple of years now is an Sofirn SC01 10180 light on my keys, plus a slim 14500 light (Sofirn SP10 Pro). The SP10 is sometimes swapped for a Wurkkos HD10, I like the flexibility of right-angle lights, particularly with tail magnet.
If I know I’m going to be using the light a lot, I’ll take a compact 18650 light instead of the 14500.
If I want less pocket bulk, I’ll carry an AAA light, typically a Reylight, BLF-348 or manker E02.
The one issue I have with the Reylight (with the previous button design) is accidental pocket activation- the protruding switch is easily turned on if I bend down- I think pocket activation is a common problem and an “EDC light” should be designed to protect against it (hardware or software or both).
For pocket carry, personally, I’d rather extra length over diameter.
A replacable cell is quite important for me, not least for the longevity of the product.
Edit: forgot to add, a nice emitter (4000K, neutral to slightly rosy tint) is mandatory for me.
That’s reasonable and probably works well as a progression since we perceive brightness non-linearly.
I’d like to add that the max normal level should be within the limits of the light’s thermal to handle continuously.
If there’s a turbo or burst mode (which should not be accessible via normal mode cycle) then that can be whatever the maximum the cell/driver/emitter can handle until thermal throttling kicks in (which will demand the driver monitor temperature). This may be a party trick for li-ion capability if multi-fuel is designed in - but this is not a capability I put a significant premium on.
Both sound great. I’m looking for an all-around user that can handle everyday tasks with acceptable light quality, not a white wall beamshot champ. Main thing is to avoid high-CCT angry blue so so common in flashlights.
Both… in a way. A forward click switch will engage momentary-on before latching; the function is more important than the feel. As opposed to the more common (and I gather cheaper) reverse click switch that first latches on with subsequent partial presses engaging momentary-off.
I registered just to reply to this because I have recently been searching for a good AA-size EDC light and didn’t find any I’m happy with yet. The KR1AA comes close, but I don’t need Anduril and would rather like a purely mechanical UI.
“What features matter most to you in an EDC flashlight?”
A floody high-CRI/R9 robust tube light that is small enough to permanently carry on my person.
Ideally it would double as an emergency light so that I can get multiple ones to stash with lithium primaries and forget about.
Thus I’d prefer a replaceable AA/14500 (dual fuel) single cell, with efficient regulation for both fuels so I can rely on minimal energy waste (subject to the inherent inefficiencies of broad-spectrum light).
A mechanical tail switch (zero parasitic drain), ideally forward-clicky with momentary-on so that the light can be used for signalling, and ideally with a magnet option.
Must be able to tail-stand; smoothly crenelated bezel to see if it is turned on when head-standing.
No electronic mode memory.
Very low (sub-lm) moonlight as an “e-trit” option.
Physical lockout, LVP, RPP
Non-priorities: pretty (stonewash whatever), throwy, highest possible output (especially at the cost of high-CRI)
“What are your biggest frustrations or deal-breakers with current EDC lights on the market?”
Any given mode (except perhaps turbo) getting darker as the battery depletes.
Stepdowns for reasons that are not thermal regulation or LVP.
Perceptible PWM flickering or too bright when in moonlight mode.
Parasitic drain when not in moonlight mode.
Side-switches.
Flat or plastic body or non-replaceable battery.
“Is there a feature you wish existed but no manufacturer has implemented yet?”
A mechanical rotary mode selector in this form factor.
It would make any electronic mode memory unnecessary.
Switching should be tactile, ideally possible with gloves on.
This would also keep the light fully functional if the tail-switch cap were replaced with a plain cap, making it twisty and even shorter.
Modes:
lockout, turning on flashes voltage and then shuts down
“e-trit” super-low locator moonlight
low (just enough to read)
medium
high (highest that can thermally be sustained at 25°C ambient until the battery is depleted)
optionally turbo (and optionally with linear regulation until it drops to high)
optionally beacon
optionally strobe (just because you mentioned “tactical”, although I don’t think this is actually needed in a small light)
Another feature I would like to see is a restriction of the discharge rate the head will draw, and opting out of that by some mechanism on the head: perhaps by setting a jumper, tiny internal switch (that you could e.g. flip with a needle) or even just cutting a small wire.
This way, high modes could not accidentally exceed the CDR of non-high-drain cells.
Please allow me to choose when ordering whether everything is potted, thread-locked and glued.
I might want it robust, or I might want it repairable (and some might want it moddable).
“What’s your ideal size, battery type, and price range for an EDC light?”
Ideally a length of ≤80mm so that the light can disappear into a 5th pocket, and under that constraint, a straight tube shape as thin as possible.
(At most KR1AA-size, although I don’t really care about the thinning in the middle of the tube.)
Dual-fuel 14500-sized battery as mentioned above, with a USB-C option.
If this light is as well regulated as the KR1AA and has all features requested above, I think likewise it is worth upwards of $50.
First off, thanks for taking the time to register and share this feedback. It really helps to get this kind of detailed insight from someone who actually knows what they’re looking for.
You’ve clearly thought through not just what you want, but why, and that distinction really matters. Your specification for a mechanical rotary mode selector is particularly elegant. It’s a refreshingly analog approach that would actually simplify both design and reliability.
A few things stand out as feasible: the tail stand capability, high CRI floody optics, and robust mechanical construction are all proven concepts. The challenge is the dual fuel regulation without electronic mode memory that’s genuinely non trivial to achieve without stepping down in moonlight or wasting efficiency on high.
Your point about choosing potting, threadlock, and glue options at purchase is really smart from a user perspective. We’d want to explore whether this could be implemented without exploding SKU complexity.
I’d be interested in whether you’d accept a slightly larger form factor, say 90mm, if it meant achieving all your thermal and regulation targets, or if the under 80mm constraint is genuinely non negotiable?
Different people like very different things, so it’ll be very difficult to make something a lot of people like. Whenever the topic comes up, the usual result is like 100 people asking for 80 different things.
So you’ll probably need to make a bunch of different lights… and let the user configure each to their own preferences, like LED type and reflector or optic type and color and button type and such. This might mean making each item custom to fit each order, instead of using mass production.
And then there’s the interface. That can also be a matter of much debate. So it would be good to let people choose an interface if possible. Or design their own. Or customize it.
You can get a product 99% right, but if the other 1% is too far from what someone wants, they won’t like it. This is often called “snatching defeat from the jaws of victory”. Or “so close, and yet, so far”.
So… I would recommend trying to let the user choose as much as possible.
But some things are universal. Almost everyone likes a well-regulated constant current driver with high efficiency and flat, stable brightness, and wide dynamic range which can go from very high to very low levels. Almost everyone likes a firm button with clear tactile feedback, something easy to press on purpose and almost impossible to press by accident. Almost everyone dislikes next-mode memory, or having to cycle through all modes to go back one level. And almost everyone dislikes inconsistent beams with rainbow effects, rings, or distracting artifacts.
If longer than 80mm I’d still be interested, but probably wouldn’t use it for EDC.
(KR1AA is 80mm I believe, so it is possible to build it this short with good dual-fuel regulation, and it optionally has magnetic tail + switch, albeit not mechanical. Granted, it is quite fat; perhaps that’s unavoidable with the features I want.)
But I’m not sure how electronic mode memory would help here, unless maybe you mean that you would need Anduril-like fine grained PWM? I’d generally be fine with that as long as the rotary switch determines the mode when going from off to on (or on momentary). Also, a turn-on delay is acceptable on the standard/regulated modes if there is a linear instant-on momentary turbo (and if it’s too hard to switch that to constant regulation when it falls below high, I’d consider that optional as well). I’ve only seen Anduril lights with e-switches, though. @ToyKeeper out of curiosity, does Anduril strictly require an e-switch, or could it be modified without too much effort to “read” a rotary wheel position when powered up and turn on immediately?
Almost everything in it requires an e-switch. However, there is a compile-time option to turn on immediately when power is connected, using the memorized brightness level. This is intended for dual switch lights with a side e-switch and a tail clicky switch. And it would be fairly simple to modify it to read from a wheel for the power-on brightness instead.
But integrating a wheel at a deeper level would be a lot more complicated than just setting the brightness at power-on time.
Or you could get a Sunwayman V11R, or add a tail switch to a Jetbeam RRT01. They already have a wheel which works well.
UI is number one for me. I like Anduril 2 if it’s a E-switch. If it’s a mechanical switch I really like Bistro. I hate beacon and flashing strobes. I just don’t need them. I don’t care if the light has them as long as I can turn them off. I also prefer no memory so being able to turn memory off or on is key. Same with moonlight.
I prefer deep carry clips that are captured under the tail cap or screwed onto the body. I do not like the cheap clips that just clip/snap into the body.
I like lights with very minimal branding or ideally no branding.
I don’t care for USB charging.
I don’t like buying a light that is all glued together and hard to take apart.
I like having options for reflectors or TIR optics.
I like emitters between 3k-5k. Or at least an emitter that is easy to access and swap out.
I like having spare parts availability. Being able to order spare drivers, switches, clips and such is always fantastic!
Not criticizing/debating your choice, but this will be a challenge to implement:
Emphasis added. I can see two potential ways to make this work:
Flat, ring-shaped magnet:
a. Sits outside the switch footprint, resting against the tailcap bulkhead
b. Captive washer arrangement between the switch and the back of the tailcap
Magnet within switch boot
a. As the plunger - likely necessitating a custom switch
b. Under a rigid boot - ideally aluminum to handle the mechanical load
I do not know that there are many options with (1) in a AA-sized footprint. A small recessed switch recessed against a flat cap might allow this to work without an air gap; otherwise there will be a gap that hurts magnetic retention.
(2)(a) will likely be rather expensive. (2)(b) seems the most likely means to achieve this while allowing the magnet to be positioned as close to the surface as possible so long as the boot is flush with the tailcap.
Signaling with a power-interrupt UI will be difficult.
So that sounds like “do what the KR1AA does, minus the e-switch” would actually work? My proposal wouldn’t require any mode changes after power-on, so although leaving out the e-switch would preclude a fully-featured Anduril, it could still work.
(If full Anduril is requested, there could also be a tail e-switch option or even an additional “screw-in-between” side e-switch, making the light longer or else potentially replacing the tail switch with a plain cap.)
Thank you for the recommendations! I just checked them out, but it seems that the V11R is very cold, inefficient (?) and also discontinued, and the RRT01 has no constant regulation and has a different form factor (18350, and although I think I could live with that given the CR123 option, the light seems to be >90mm in length).
The KR1AA seems to solve it, albeit with an e-switch. (I don’t own one, so I cannot check how it works.) Or did you mean that there is something about mechanical switches that would prevent this solution?
Why is that? Because of power-on delay? (Linear on turbo would solve that I think?)
When using the smallest possible modification (enabling the turn-on-at-boot option and reading a ring to get the initial brightness level), it wouldn’t do much. Without an e-switch, it would not be able to do anything except turn on and off. And you’d have to set the brightness with the ring before turning it on, because turning the ring while it’s already on wouldn’t do anything.
Everything else, like changing brightness or configuring options or checking battery status or changing aux LED behavior or blinky/strobe/mood modes or changing ramp styles or turbo or … really, anything … requires an e-switch.
