HDS are the old Novatac so there is an E-Switch
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So in my T200 I can put an SFT25 but I am afraid of distance between led and reflector in term of beam quality
Hello, Jon. I was hoping you would show up here, but didnât know if I could tag people like on certain other forums.
I used to be u/300cid on reddit before they banned me. I bought these lights because of your posts and recommendation (same with an RRT-01, SC21, and iirc the D3C?).
I had seen that CRX post probably a year or more ago, but had forgotten about it.
The second link posted in your reply doesnât work for me, it is saying there was a typo.
Thanks for your reply!
An edit as well: I could possibly try to make a switch contact bar, but I only have a sheet of 1.5mm copper currently. I will research it more.
Sorry everyone for disappearing for a few days, work has been insane.
And I am in the lower 48 yes. Could you DM me about pricing and related info?
I am planning to turn this SPL-120 into a triple with a Carclo 10507 or such.
I have a second of the same light, which is going to stay reflector based (single emitter, anyway). It is still stock except for a 519A swap. if I can get someone to set me up with an aux board for that light, I might go TIR. but for now I want to make sure this mod is going to work alright.
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Sorry for the absence for the last couple days. I havenât had the time to even think about messing with this light lately.
I havenât sanded it down though, and I thought it could be possible to ground the driver through the ground ring on the âtopâ of the driver and bare aluminum on the pill edge, but I would have to use a modified adapter ring like Convoy sells.
As is, those two surfaces are nowhere near each other. if I could get one of those to work, Iâd still have to shorten the pill, but if I had to guess, I could cut the pillâs height from the bottom by up to 4mm and still have component clearance.
Another âkindaâ update, but on the other end of this lightâs head:
I have figured out exactly the size of spacer I will need to make for the triple board to fit. I was allowed an extra 0.5mm of height by using an 23Ă1.5mm glass instead of the plastic stock lens. I shaved down the glass lens diameter with a cheapo 400 grit diamond stone under running water. it worked alright.
I wanted to just grind down an S2+ copper triple spacer, but probably will save it for another light, since theyâre $10!
The spacer should be not-quite cone shaped, approx. 15mm dia at the bottom, 22mm at the top, and around 5.25-5.6mm tall.
I am going to dremel and file and sand down a $2 aluminum vape atomizer stand instead. Itâs currently too wide to fit into the light, which provides me room to work with. It already has a hole halfway through its center. Man I wish I had a shop with a lathe and drill press and all that. I am going to fit that part late today after work.
Thanks everyone for your help, I will update again later.
I have a couple SFT-25 that I have no tested yet, but I have seen nice things about them. From what I have read, they seem to be better than the SFT40 but in a smaller package?
I wonder if the T200 light has the same reflector as mine. I saw an old KnifeCenter listing that showed an OP reflector. the reflector on my SPL-120 is relatively deep.
In my other Novatac light, I swapped a 519A into. Itâs nice enough, but I had a time trying to find a reflector/centering gasket that fit properly. mine is still noticably off-center, which is why I kept the dome on the LED.
fixed.. I do remember you..
reddit banned me too, welcome to the club⌠lol
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I think you need to ground the pill retaining ring to the ground ring on the driver.
The pill is anodized and wonât make an electrical connection to the body.
pill retaining ring to driver ground ring
Thatâs what Iâve been working on today for a minute. Like you said the outermost contact ring under the red solder mask should do it, itâs a pretty exact size match.
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Kind-of update:
I have heavily filed a copper Convoy S2+ triple spacer, which will sit atop a sanded 16mm mcpcb on top of the pill inside the head where it narrows down to hold the original reflector.
I decided to use the S2+ spacer instead of the aluminum atomizer stand because I didnât really have any way to secure it enough for power tools. Eventually I will purchase a jewelerâs vise as recommend by u/-Cheule- (I cannot seem to find his account).
Having test fit everything, it appears that all will fit well with enough room for attaching an FW3A clip behind the bezel, using the stock 2mm thick plastic lens, which has green AR coating. It seems that I can remove the clip and go back to the sanded to 22.5mm FW3A glass lens.
I believe all I have to do to at least get it to working level is to solder everything up. I will be using the Lume1 driver instead of the worse red colored FW1A driver. An Emisar D3AA AUX board will be installed, and 3x 519A 4500k.
It is highly likely that I will swap in 219B 4500k instead if everything works properly, as it is my favorite emitter, even though I missed the famed D180 days. Iâm not sure what bin mine are, I have some from Hank and some from Simon. Theyâre great though, since FFL351A 4000k ârosy binâ are almost too rosy for me sometimes.
Iâve not had a day off work in nearly two weeks so this is taking longer than I had expected. Will update again later today.
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sw45k has also been my personal favorite for a long time. FWIW the ones from Hank and Simon are D220. They have very little rosy tint. I kind of wish the Duv was a bit lower.
Here is a recent mod using an sw45k from Simon:
notice the Duv is just -0.0012
older sw45k, of D200 bin, had Duv around -0.0080 (which is not excessively rosy imo, and I liked it better than D220). But D200 are no longer available.
agree! They tend to have Duv lower than -0.0125 which I consider excessive
I recently tried a new LED from Hank, NTG35 4200K. It has become a new personal favorite, this one measures Duv -0.0087.. it is very nice imo.. still not excessively rosy.
And the NTG35 4200K produces about 70% 35% more lumens than sw45k..
The NTG35 4200K is imho the new alternative to sw45k D220. The NTG is slightly more rosy, and has higher output than sw45k.
here is the sw45k next to the NTG35.. we can see the sw45k looks relatively more greenish (less rosy):
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3V 3A?
I dont know the specs,
but maybe this helps (from Hanks D3AA page):
519A 4500K R9080 1540lm OTF
219B 4500K R9080 1200lm OTF
NTG35 5000K/4200K 95 CRI 1620lm OTF
(I corrected my 70% lumen difference to 35% based on those numbers)
btw, the NTG is not shown as 9080, a recent test from a friend w a Hopolocor measured the R9 at 69:
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iâll probably need to buy some NTG35 in 4200
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I will definitely buy a few of those NTG35 when the KR1AA comes out. Iâve asked Hank multiple times to allow us to order the light with a B35AM, which imo would be absolutely perfect. Surely itâll be offered with 6V emitters over 3V?
I have no update currently, Iâve been working under my truck the past three days removing the transmission and other parts. Havenât had any time to mod, but I should be able to do at least something tomorrow.
yes, that is my understanding.. with 5050 footprint such as NTG50, and SFT70 (which I dont think matches the B35AM footprint, nor does the Nichia 719a have a 5050 footprint, though it is also a 6V LED)
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I may be wrong, but I believe all of your mentioned emitters all follow the âstandardâ XHP35, XHP50, and XHP70 sized footprints.
iirc B35AM has no middle neutral thermal pad, and is just two pads similar to the latticepower LEDs the TS10 uses and the two Nichia (E17 & E21 I think) ones people swapped to instead.
It could be possible to shave down a KR1 B35AM board to fit? Possibly Simon offers a smaller B35 mcpcb? Surely there could be an option to make it work, unless the TIR wouldnât fit. I really like the B35AM although Iâve only had 2700k (maybe it was 3000k) and 4500k.
I have a 4500k B35AM in an S6 but I canât remember just which of those two ways I went to be able to install it. It is a very nice beam with that deep reflector, and people say itâs amazing in the DM11, but I ordered my DM11 with SFT40 3000k and swapped it to SFN60.
Hank would have to get a new mcpcb designed just for that specific light with B35AM, which surely wouldnât be cost effective, even though the KR1AA will âsell like hotcakes.â I know I will for sure buy one, likely multiple, as I have wanted it since the D2 was announced. Iâve skipped the last few Hank models. Havenât bought one since the DW4K which I use often.
I mean with any other emitter size, there will be a multitude of swappable LEDs. XHP50.3 instead of SFT70, FFL 7070 or XHP70 instead of the NTG 7070, etc. less so with the 3535 footprint, but still.
He told me âThanks for your suggestion, we will consider it.â When I asked about the B35AM option. Imo it would seem to be a perfect candidate for that light.
If he doesnât offer it eventually, Iâll try to find a way to make it work, although B35AM has basically faded from existence in this day and age.
The only âproductionâ (surely the incorrect word) light I have ever seen come standard with a B35 is some Milwaukee Tru-view light my friendâs dad wanted me to fix. 21700 sized proprietary Li-Po battery with very odd olight-esque contacts, and a plastic reflector and lense. Itâs discontinued, and it was likely the better part of a decade old. I told him the only thing he can do is buy a new battery for it which was $20+. I wanna say it was a 5000k CCT, but I believe there was once a 6500k low cri b35?