Help with C8 newting light

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

Hi guys,
New here, but from the replies to my intro thread you all seem ace.

I’m looking to build a C8 into a newting light for my brother in law (he does newt surveys)
Ideally it needs to be ~3000k, high CRI, as tight a hot spot as possible and be capable of running for up to 3 hours straight.

Colour temp needs to be warm as it disturbs the newts less.

I was thinking of using either a nichia or a high CRI xpg2. The XHP50.2 3000k 80+ CRI is the perfect colour temp for the job so the high CRI 3000k Xpg2 is tempting.
The host I have for this build is an Ultrafire C8 from FT, kinda wish I’d gotten another convoy for the integrated head.

I know I’m going to have to dedome the LED for best throw but I’m not very confident about it and can’t afford to buy too many LED’s, is there really much difference between a VERY closely shaved dome and a full dedome?
If a full dedome is significantly better the which solvent that I can get in the UK is best for this job. I don’t want to use petrol as I want to avoid any possible chance of green shift. Also what’s the effect on lifespan due to a full dedome?

Lastly is driver. I was thinking of a q.lite stacked to ~4.5A and making sure it’s heatsinked properly.

Battery wise I was thinking either Sanyo or Samsung 35E

any advice before I pull the trigger on parts would be great.

Thanks

Thom.

2

Gas(petrol) dedoming is probably safer. You only need a tablespoon or so. Be aware that you get a tint shift>warmer from either method. Hot dedoming is supposed to be easy but there’s more technique than simply dunking the led in a glass of gas for an hour or two so I’d reccomend practicing on dead ones or ones you don’t like much, you might end up liking them more then. Slice dedomes preserve the bond wire protection but aren’t as clean as stock HI emitters.