Why does my hd2010 with xpg2 and nanjg 105c driver just draw 2.5 amps even if I add a amc7135??
I have tested it with a soshine 26650 and a sanyo 18650
Do I need to use two 18350s and another driver?
Thin and long leads cause voltage drop. Are you using short and thick leads for your DMM?
What gauge wire are your DMM leads?
Is the XP-G2 on Sinkpad or Noctigon, at over 3A is already hard for the XP-G2 not to be very hot.
It’s on a 20mm sinkpad which is screwed in the pill
Either you don't have fully charged battery or bad leads for your dmm.
Thanks for the help I just made really thick and short leads and now I’m just have to wait for my battery to charge.
Dedoming sometimes raises an LEDs forward voltage. Measure the current without the driver in the circuit to see what that one particular cell is capable of doing through that one particular LED. Any 7135 based driver will always fall a bit short of that number you get in the DD test.
You’re 13 and stacking AMC chips!
Having small hands does help.
It draws exactly the same 2.2 amps when direct drive it.
Maybe it would help with a 4.35v Samsung cell or do I have to use a domed led?
Yup It Isn’t that hard for me if I use a small tip
What cell are you using?
Do you have thermal compound under the star?
Let the light chill outside and see if that improves current draw. If not, maybe it's not a thermal problem.
Are you using leads that came pre-soldered to the driver? What gauge are they?
How much current was the light drawing stock? If over 2.2A, it's probably not your cells.
I have tested a unprotected soshine 26650 and a sanyo 18650.
I have thermal paste under the star and It’s held down by two 1.5mm screws so I don’t think it’s a thermal problem.
I’m using the leads that came with the driver I think they are 24 awg.
The meter can also cause low current readings.
Do you have any other lights you can check, using the same cells?
No, but have two other meters that shows the same an old fluke and a really old and big analog multimeter
Well think it through. It does 2.2A through the driver, and it does 2.2A without the driver, so the driver is cleared from blame. The other common things present in both tests (with driver and without) are:
-the meters (just because several meters all give the same low readings doesn't mean the meters are cleared - they could all be bad - you'd need to prove they can measure higher currents accurately on some other unrelated circuit, but you'd need a known-accurate meter first before you can rule them out. Also, if you're using the same set of leads on all the different meters, that's another common item you need to find a way to prove as good)
-the LED/star (you need to test the circuit with only the LED/star changed, if it does higher current with everything else the same but a different LED, there's your problem)
-the cells (what's the voltage, open circuit and when powering the LED? Do those cells do higher currents into a different LED? Or the same?)
Thanks!! I’m pretty sure thats It’s my cheap meter I just got over 3 amps with my analog meter.Tomorrow my dad is going to borrow a fancy fluke meter from his job.
Even using a good fluke meter with the factory leads will give you false readings, if testing much over 3 amps of current. If you want it to read close you will need to make some short leads (about 10” or so) and use 14AWG wire or bigger.
With the fancy fluke meter and thick leads I got 3.5 amps with domed xpg2 but I only get 2.4 amps with dedomed led I think a xpe2 would be better for this flashlight with a aspheric lens