I did some more testing with my Sofirn SC31 Pro (SST40, 5000k) and I can now see the green tints people are referring to Does the LH351D at 4000k have the same amount of “green” as the SST40 5000k? Or is it worse?
If anybody can link me to some side-by-side comparisons of the Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril 4000k vs 5000k against a white wall/certain in/outdoor scenario’s that would be much appreciated!
I can’t even tell the difference in lights that are, say, 1000lm vs 1300lm, 1500lm vs 2000lm, etc. The differences are more for meters than eyeballs.
I thought my first 2000lm light would daylight my whole yard vs my now-anæmic 1000lm light, but I was underwhelmed at the difference. A bit brighter, sure, but not the clouds-part-and-sunlight-streams-forth difference I was hoping for.
The human eye is capable of seeing in very low light conditions. A 30% increase in brightness is much less perceptible to a dilating pupil.
On the other hand, the human eye will not add colour to a scene that lacks it. The 30% trade off in lumens is always worth it in my opinion for a high cri light all else being equal (tint, cct, etc).
In the even that the high CRI light comes in your prefered CCT, its a no brainer to me.
A high CRI light will usually only feel underpowered when you shine a brighter light next to it. On its own, the difference in brightness is much less important
Last but not least, how throwy an LED is highly affects your perception of brightness. The SST20 is very throwy, so may appear equally bright to a brighter but floodier LED.
No problem, I just want to mention that Sofirn lights are exceptional value for money. I also have a SP36S, SC31 Pro and the C8G. Their customer service is also good. Just a pity about the misinformation on this specific product.