Any suggestions for a tail switch for high-current mods for an S2+ or C8+?
I am planning out a triple-LED S2+ and XHP-50 C8+……but am aware that the rating of the stock tail switch is 1-amp……so concerned about driving it to 6 or 7 amps.
I see mentions of Omten 1288 (Banggood), but it is also only 1-amp rated.
I watched a Matt Smith video, where he showed a homemade “zero resistance” switch……but I don’t have the equipment to machine metal, etc.
I will bypass the springs, but not sure what else I should be considering.
The famous Omten 1288 may be small and rated for a mere 1 Amperes, but it’s capable of much much more.
They are used in 9 Ampere quad lights too, without problems.
Member Djozz did a test on various switches.
I’ll look up a link for you.
250V is the safe limit for the switch to operate. You don’t want high tension sparks to jump an “open” switch.
1 Amp is the formal load of the switch. The entrails of the switch are not designed to handle a bigger load.
(but there are so many safety margins built in we willingly take the risk of overloading. Same as with led’s).
Compare it with a waterfall. The Voltage is the height of the fall. The Amperage is the width (m³/sec).
^ True, but still, these little 1288 fellas can handle 10 times the max rated current.
And anyone who has ever soldered these things knows they’re made of modified candle wax.
Yet i’ve never seen one melt from high currents.
I have several triples with the Omten 1288 and never had a problem so you should be good with the stock Convoy switches.
Awhile back I modified a cheapo AA flashlight with a more powerful driver and it started to flicker. So I replaced the stock switch with an Omten 1217 and that resolved the issue.
It seems the Omten switches are good quality switches.
I have used the factory omten switch in a S2+ using a GXB172 boost driver pulling 16 amps from the battery. The driver uses a soft start function but the switch is still going after a good amount of use. If you need a lower resistance more power capable switch look at the GFS16 Fet switch. GFS16 - Battery Indicator Tailcap Light & 1mR FET Tailswitch! (Rev B)
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In a switch the volatge determines how far it can arc between contact points, the current determines how big that arc is and how much damage it does. Welding is a good example of high current arcing. That arc is exactly what happens when you connect and disconeect high current. Another thing that can kill these plastic switches is if the contact points or the pressure between contacts is not large enough to handle the current. It will overheat and melt, same as any wire that is not sized correctly for the current.
I remember someone use to take a flashlight switches apart and stretch the spring out and reassemble. The switch could handle more current then because it had more pressure between contacts.
