Usually I will put it on there by eye and then put the reflector down over it to see if I’ve got it right.
I recently got an Ultrafire drop-in that came with a black plastic isolation disk. The disk has a 3.5mm x 3.5mm hole for the LED in it (for an XP-G) and the whole disk fits perfectly into the top of the drop-in, almost snapping place. I think that disk could be used to center the LED. Once the glue sets up you could use the disk somewhere else.
I’ve always centered and focused by hand. Some lights I don’t dare take apart because I know I’ve spent hours getting the focus juuust right. I am curious about these though: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020262
Anyone ever try ’em? The look similar to what’s in my HD2010 and my V8 drop-in.
They work perfectly with typical C8 reflector. I was a little bit skeptic how would it fit in 7.xx mm hole and still around emitter but they do and these are very thin so no change in focus or assembly problems.
But even with these protectors corners of led emitter (with those often exposed tiny square positive and negative pads) are still just a fraction of mm away from reflector hole. It would be much better to have C8 reflectors with at least 8mm hole and corresponding led protector like this (like recent non c8 torches)
The pill is out of a Romisen RC-N3
I’m putting in an XM-L LED and a KD V2 driver. The plan is to use it as a helmet light for mountain bike night rides; with a 1S2P 18650 battery pack
Neat trick, but assumes that your emitter is centred to the base, which isn’t always the case if the base cutting machine isnt perfectly lined up with the pads for the emitters, or if your emitter isn’t reflowed exactly in the middle 0:)
And combine that with reflectors that are threaded on the outside, so when tightened tend to shift to a particular side, while your pill shifts to a different side (thinks of D10s), then you need to intentionally shift your emitter to one side to compensate, a game of small adjustments and mass frustration. (earlier models that started to use the XP-E, but before they had the centring rings worked out in the XP-G models)