I have a Spyderco sharpmaker and even with that dummy proof system I can’t get my knives shaving sharp like they come from the factory. I must not hold the knife consistently… I don’t know why every other dummy can do it but not this dummy. I mean I get my stuff “useful” sharp but they only shave hair with a bit of pressure.
I usually don’t really consider a knife to be sharp until it can shave. But, my wife doesn’t like for me to have shaven spots on my arm. So, instead, I filet the tip of my finger. The skin is thick enough that a thin layer can be ‘shaved’ off to test the sharpness of my blades. Obviously, I can’t sharpen too many blades at once…
I can get than a blade shaves (more or less hair) with a 600 diamond stone and a ceramic “chaira” after sharpening. Nothing else.
For small knives/folders I normally use a Fällkniven DC4 or DC3 sharpener. It is pretty coarse diamonds on one side and fine ceramics on the other. Slow and precise and alternate sides and light pressure. And I finish with a quick strop on my trouser legs. Shaving sharp. Takes less than a minute if it is just edge maintenance.
I have a small fixture that allows me to sharpen at precise angles, but I rarely use that. Typically only when I have to restore/reprofile a really bad edge and I need to remove more steel than usual.
Most of my other knives are scandi grind. Very easy to sharpen with correct angle since you just put the knife side flat against the stone or sandpaper and sharpen away. Always the right angle.
Some concave knives with very hard steels I sharpen using sandpapers on a stack of paper. Flat but not hard, gives more area in contact with the paper. And I polish the edge using Autosol compound on carton paper.
If you’re trying for “Shaving Sharp”, that’s a good (if unsightly) way to test your work. My ex-SWMBO fussed and teased until I got in the habit of shaving my legs instead. (And thanks, AlexGT for posting that selfie of me in the woods! :bigsmile: )
When I came down out of “Them Thar Hills”, I removed the worst of my “Blackbeard The Pirate” beard with my favorite belt knife, which I only used for impressing people and skinning game.
OTOH, I’ve found that a steeper (more axe-like) edge is better for workaday EDC, as it cuts cardboard, tape, small cordage, etc. without dulling so fast. Not so impressive, but I don’t really do that anymore.
Either way, your precision in holding the edge to the stone is drop-dead vital.
Well , as sharp as you can !
There is no too sharp . only not sharp enough .
Some of my better knives , are almost scalpel sharp .
But yes , it has very much to do with the quality of the steel , not just hardness - but also the grain/or structure of the steel. I have some knives that seem to be hard enough but due to the steel itself simply refuse to get very sharp. I wore out a Schrade CH18 USA trying to get it shaving sharp .. Nothing would do it , not diamond hones , not a Arkansas Stone ..
The steel was simply garbage ...
We have a set of kitchen knives that refuse to sharpen past a point , supposedly brand name knives , but a PITA to get any edge on what so ever ..
I simply feel that steels with to coarse a grain , will never take a good edge .. No matter what it is made off ( 440 , 420 , ) or hardness/temper
If you are used to very sharp knives, you will learn how they behave and will actually find them to be safer in the long run. High pressures on the right blade are seldom required, that eliminates slips!
Old4570 is spot on about soft steel not taking an edge for crap. However large grains (not including excessively large grains from bad heat treating in this statement) won’t necessary be a problem. Work horses like D2 form mostly chromium carbides which tend to be “large” compared to many the ones found in many other steels, but it sharpens very well.
Large grains tend to cause chipping out on the edge under heavy use or an increased tendency to crack the blade under heavy side loads.