Hello, sorry for a new topic, but i have googled and searched, but didnt find the answer. I have a convoy flaslight with xml-led and it doesnt work properly. It worked fine for a few months now the led lights up very dim. I have a multimeter and id like to know how to test if my driver is bad or if it is the led. The tailcap is not broken i tested “direct-drive” without the tailcap and it didnt make a difference. Is there any site that has simple instructions for testing if it is the led or the driver!
Thanks!
have you tried a different battery?
checked voltage at emitter while switched on?
can you see anything on the driver?
tried tightening the retainer ring that holds the driver?
I had my convoy c8 with inconsistent no light/moonlight due to loose retainer ring on my driver board.
my suggestion is to dismantle everything and clean up with alcohol wipes and screw things back in
i have tried different batteries, did not help, every battery works fine in other flashlights. voltage at the emitter is 3.84V while on high mode. after it broke it has still 3 modes but all of them very dim. there is no retainer ring on the driver, it is soldered to the base of the driver and led. so is it the driver that is broken?
EDIT: no visible damage at the driver either. solders everywhere seem fine.
Hi
I would do the following:
- take out tail cup and measure current consumption, if it is high and light is dim - probably you have short circuit somewhere, if current is low - either the driver is faulty or there is week connection somewhere.
Who sold it to you? Got a link to the seller’s ad for the light?
Connect two wires to one of your cells and with the correct polarity, quickly tap (connect one, tap the other) the wires to the LED’s input. If the LED is still good, you’ll get a bright flash when you tap. It’ll mean the driver is likely bad.
it’s the led
For $12.99 I got a red Convoy S2+ from GearBest. It had a 8*7135 driver (with 4 chips on the spring side) soldered to the brass pill. The rest of the light has brass rings where brass rings should be. I unsoldered the driver and bought for 80c a brass retainer ring from Fasttech. I switched the XM-L2 for a dedomed XP-L and transplanted the pill into a grey S2 with a SMO reflector. Every thing works fine and now it pulls 2.74A from a Samsung 30Q.
What Boaz said…
If you have 3.8V across the emitter and no or little light your problem is most likely the LED. I suppose there’s a slim chance you have high resistance between either the driver wires to PCB or PCB to LED connections but that’s not all that likely.
Sounds like a good time to upgrade to a new emitter and DTP PCB.
Good luck.