About couple of months ago I order some remote pressure switch but as I receive them try it and they not wan’t to work when they totally screw up only when press it and make contact with thread…
Nothing was clear to me, I try it couple of times and it won’t work so I leave aside because I don’t have time to play with that in that period. Now I retry and understand that painting inside tailcap ( on threads ) makes the problem. So here it how it look like :
As you can see there are two of threads I’m using the bigger one so the first and second is for some C8 hosts, so host of my lamp don’t have contact with second non painted threads only with first one black/painted.
And you can see here that I scratch with some little screwdriver to remove a painting :
And now light can work when I totally screw up a tail cap, but low working, mid working, and when I go to high it automatic go to low, so it wont allow to run on high mode.
Is there any easy way that I can remove this painting from threads that light can work normally ?
I’m not sure now this works, I need to dissolve this NaOH with water then I need to put a tail cap in it ?
Of course I can’t put entire tail cap in I assume that I can put some of that dilution on parts where I need to remove anodising ?
First time to try this so I’m afraid not to ruin something.
This should be done after complete remove anodisation from threads ?
You need bare metal to bare metal. Disassemble the tail cap and carefully wrap the part you don’t want stripped in masking tape folding the ends to cover the o-ring area and switch hole or seal those with wax. Then soak the part in the NAOH solution. Time of soak depends on anodizing and solution concentration and you don’t need a lot of volume, just enough to submerge the area to be stripped. Don’t touch the stuff, it’s very caustic, wear gloves, long sleeves, eyewear, etc. and immediately rinse any off. Check on it after 10-15 minutes to see if the black is dissolving into the solution and agitate it a bit. Use an old toothbrush to scrub it under running water. Repeat as needed until it’s fairly clean. You can get it perfect but at a certain point the bare aluminum starts being dissolved as well. A little black in the bottom of the grooves won’t matter if it’s not a contact area. Rinsing in clean water stops the reaction.
With warm water it can take less than a minute.
I just tried de-anodizing aluminium myself for the first time yesterday.
You don’t even need to put a lot of the stuff in the water to make it work.
…but i think it eats the aluminum too…
I’m still discovering the best way to do it.
Meh, that’s only when the water is very hot and you have a lot of lye (well, i have those tiny caustic soda pearls) in the bucket / container.
But you’re right. It’s safer to add it to the water than to add water to it.
Proper ventilation is also advised.
I use a tool for cleaning sewer pipes.
We can buy them at the store household chemicals. The same place where washing powder, shampoos, etc.
A pair of dry crystals. Put on the spot where you need to remove the anodizing. Drop them a little water.
Stir with a wooden toothpick and help rip anodizing
Ok I finnaly got some NaOH, and want to try this to remove anodisation, but before that I try like Lexel said to measure a resistance on this tailcap but I can’t get no readings from it ??
My DMM is ok, I can check resistance from my wall plug for example…
I was pissed off and get some sharp object and start to scratch throughout entire threads in all directions and do that 5 minutes put an effort to remove as best as I can, and after that try it, and it finnaly works ok ! Of course I don’t remove all of it since it is inaccessible and hard, but definitely enough in order to work.
And after I better reviewed a complete situation I found what was problem.
So in any case I will try this with NaOH since I get it, but it is most important for me that now works and that I found what was problem.
