I am addicted to CR123 size lights now.

Hmmm, I fear you might have bought a few weeks too early my friend!

WE need more pictures of this beauty!

Nice lights :slight_smile: i dont have alot of CR123 format lights only a few oddly.

- Olight S10

- Trustfire Mini-01

- Trustfire Mini-02

- Ultrafire UF-T20

  • Unknown Angle Light

I like 1xCR123 sized lights. I always run mine on li-ion 16340 rechargeables. Here are some of my more notable ones:

  • D25C and D25C Ti - great lights. They come with great tint and acceptable, though unexciting, UI. Very small for what they do. Bright on IMR 16340.
  • Spark SF3 neutral white - fantastic tint and UI and the light looks great. All around great pocket EDC. Better UI than the Eageltac, but not quite as bright. This is my favorite unmodded CR123 size EDC light.
  • XTar WK42 - super-small size and nice sideswitch. UI isn’t perfect and tint is very cool white. Makes a great host for a 3.04 amp DrJones Lumodrv driver and neutral white XML2. This is my favorite mod host in the 1xCR123 size, and fully modded it’s my favorite CR123 size EDC light.
  • Olight S10 - ultra-tiny CR123 size light. UI lacks shortcut to max power, but this is fixed on the L2 version. Tint is slightly greenish due to poor choice of tint and coating on emitter. Easily fixed by replacing emitter and lens.
  • Jetbeam RRT-01 - nice interface and feels nice in the hand. Larger than some of the other lights though. This is really a 1x18350 light due to the wider battery compartment.
  • Thrunite IC - one of my older CR123 size lights. Larger and longer than some of the newer models and with a dated emitter. Long reflector gives larger halo, but poor spill.
  • Lenslight mini - Huge and heavy. Built like a tank. As large as an SC600, but with a fraction of the brightness. Not recommended.

As requested. Since I’m not good with a camera I thought I’ll make it up in quantity :stuck_out_tongue:

Some nice lights there :slight_smile:

The three I have:

Olight i1 EOS, Olight S10 Baton, and a Suwayman C10R. I run all three on Nitecore RCR123's.

Glenn how are you liking that c10?

To be honest, the build quality is great, but I'm not impressed with the tint nor the brightness. The Olight S10 Baton blows it away in both areas. The C10 is a bit too green for my taste...

i hate green tint!

i had an s10 for a bit and i think i sold it here on or cpf

i missed it and managed to grab a modded s10 L2 version with a XML2 4000k in it

I just sold my S10 too because of the tint but I saw on eBay they have a version with neutral white emitter. They asked for $15-$16 more than CW version that I bought for $34.

This is the perfect excuse to mod it. Wondering is that C10 easy to take apart or solder/glued shut?

I have no idea since I've never tried to take mine apart. I keep it in my car as an emergency light with a regular CR123A installed just in case. Tint doesn't matter for this use...

BTW, I love modding stuff, and I've been an expert solderer for over 40 years. Yet I never tried modding a flashlight, although I did change the driver in my original Dry to extend the turbo mode from 30 seconds to 180 seconds..

I have an early version S10 Ti with the neutral emitter. It also has a crappy tint… yellowish-green. But then again, all the older S10s had a lens coating that turned everything green. Supposedly they switched to a better coating in the L2 versions.

My aluminum S10 early version has a beautiful neutral tint with no green…. but I swapped in a 5000k neutral XML2 emitter and replaced the lens with a different 20mm one.

That's some real mental fortitude to resist modding all your flashlights except 1. I don't consider 40 years to be an expert solderer.

You have become a solder grandmaster at that point!

What, none of you kids carries an Arc-LS?

40 years of getting paid to not only to solder, but to troubleshoot as well. I worked in manufacturing circuit boards since the early 70's, and as a tech in a stereo store for a few years, and wiring and troubleshooting electrics on offset web printing presses for 30 years. Not once have I ever made a solder joint that went cold.. Guess what, that makes me a pro

One thing I forgot to mention, I've been building electronics kits from Heathkit, DynaKit, and various other kits since the late 60's..

so... i now have the following enroute to me

m11r 4000k from hidcanada
v10r u2 from hkequip
v11r xml2 neutral from hkequip
s10 xml2 4000k from vinh
spark sf3 t5 neutral from a sale on blf
m11r Sirius Ti modded to triple xpg2 r4 4000k from cpf
nitecore ex-10 from boaz

needless to say, im going to be selling a few lights lol to cover costs.

I think the Ti S10 is my next light. I love the Ti S15 but it’s as heavy as my stainless steel T10S! It does have a nice tint, though.
Also, whoever designed the clips on the S series was on crack. The $15 SolarStorm S series has a much better clip design.

I have a JB RRT01. It’s a great light, but I find it’s too fat and stubby for my taste and the runtime is short. I’d much rather use a 1xAA / 1x14500 light.

I use a L3 L10-219 most of the time, but it lacks a decent clip and I really like bare-metal lights so I ordered a D25A Ti 219. I hope it gets here soon. A ZL SC52 is nice too, but there’s no Nichia 219 version, it’s ugly, and it’s still pretty wide for a 1xAA light. Best run time of anything in its class though, and the best mode choices too.