What would be the best method to take about 1/8” from one of the ends of an S2+ shorty tube? Belt sander? I could experiment, but would rather not if there is a tried and true technique.
Or you could use a longer spring maybe?
I have used files before, just go slowly and rotate it often to keep it sqare. Or a sheet of 120 grit on a floor tile or piece of glass. Use a square from at least two angles to check and make sure it is even. A lit up wall (maybe a flashlight?) behind it will help with seeing the gaps.
Belt sander will work, and a V block will hold it square to the belt, but them things can eat some aluminum. Use a triangle file to chase the threads and clean them before sanding the tube down, then clean again and lube the threads so they do not gall up if you are on bare threads.
Well, not for what I want to do which is utilize an S2 SMO reflector and pill. They screw in just fine, but take up more space in the head so the tube won’t screw in all the way. I’ll actually end up with hardly any space, but I think a flattop with a button on the driver (or reverse that would probably work…springless driver and buttontop cell) I should hopefully have just enough room. Thanks anyhow.
Alrighty, thanks. I’ll go for and see how it turns out. I have lots and lots of 120 grit. Just wanted someone to chime in and say, “I’ve done such and such and it works/doesn’t work.”
What I would do is leave the tube the same length and file down the reflector. I just did this, works great. I don’t think you’ll lose much optically.
Yikes! Really? Do you have a pic of this? What reflector did you file down? Those dang smooth reflectors are so sensitive to just about anything…I’d be afraid it would start to peel on the inside.
Nope, just use a fine file for the rough work and a flat piece of something with sandpaper for the finish work. Works great, and I’ve done this method lots for other reflectors too. Once you’re done, run the reflector under some water to get rid of the fine bits and dry with an eyeglass type of cloth. I do this all the time, actually just fitted some KD smooth reflectors for the M1 and M2 as well.
You want to file the outward side not the led side. In my experience, it seems like you lose more lumens taking off material from the led side, also can make it a pain for centering things. If you finish the outward side with 1500 grit and after that use the back side of the sandpaper, it doesn’t even look like you modified it.
Edit: and sorry I don’t have any pictures right now. Maybe I’ll get some up yet.
I had not thought of filing a reflector. Seldom can I get them clean again, so I just do a battery tube… Thanks for the tips Kelsey!!
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I’d probably just use a handfile. It could take an hour, but it’s the simplest method and works well.
If I really wanted to speed up the process I’d probably dremel it down a bit then use a file to even everything out.
Unless you have some way to be certain not to contaminate the reflector with scratchy metal bits I’d suggest you keep the reflector as far away from the file or sandpaper as possible, preferably in the bag it came in and just do what you originally intended with the suggestions outlined above. I just use a lap sized piece of plywood but with a slightly higher grit to start and finish with 320 or 440. Wrap the tube with tape so that if it snags and tips over you won’t drag the bare tube on the sandpaper. Keep a trash bag or lined wastebasket between your knees for the waste to fall into or be brushed. A belt sander or combo disc/flat sander would work faster but aluminum tends clog them, isn’t as accurate, and has a nasty tendency to grab the parts along with whatever digits are attached and inflict damage. Slipping it over a longish 3/4” dowel long and securing it with tape would give a more secure grip and get your digits farther from the action. Marking where to stop is a good idea too. On bare versions this isn’t necessary but with anodized threads contact is made just by the bare end surface I’d still finish the last bit by hand which would take 1-2 hours done entirely this way depending on your endurance and the grit of the paper. Dremel discs can be very grabby when cutting tubing but is another possible way to do the rough cut. Wear a mask, fine metal debris is not kind to the inside of the human body and the bits are small enough to get airborn.
Here is what the reflector looks like after being finished:
This is a red S2+ with a dedomed XP-G2 running at 3 amps, AR lens. It actually throws amazingly well.
The hotspot is actually smaller than this, the picture washed out the spot a bit and made it bigger, it gives you an idea though.
I think he’s using the long pill with the deeper reflector, hence the need to shorten the tube(or something) for fitment. Il probably do something similar to one.
No, this is with the short pill. No way you could fit a long pill and a long reflector in there.
Kelsey, thanks for the pic. For now I’m going to just file down the tube. Reason I’m using the SMO is because I like it so much in the S2, so I don’t want to alter it in any way. An XPL HI with a few extra 7135s will throw just as well as a stock C8 and has more flood with the S2 SMO. I’d just like it in a smaller package.
And, yes, the reflector is significantly longer than the S2+ reflector. The S2 pill is smaller, but when stacked side by side, the S2 SMO reflector and pill is definitely longer than the S2+ reflector and pill. When the S2+ tube screws down to where it meets the pill there’s about 1/8” or so left.
On mine that end of the tube isn’t anodized so length doesn’t need to be super precise but you don’t want to remove too much or there won’t be much threading left to make the connection. I’d try and remove just enough for full closure and no more. Good luck.
screw an iron nut onto the tread before you file it, that way the nut will take the burrs off when you unscrew it.
I’d like to know what nut fits a convoy tube. Besides Macadamia nuts that is.
you’re right of course. square cut nuts are few and far between.