I modded my Olight M20s with a MF XM-L 3A Drop-in, But the tail switch design caused major issues with its normal but non mode changing when used as a forward clicky. I can after modding it change modes in the OFF position and then click the light on. It originally had a side mode changing switch and rear on/off clicky.
The issue is in finding a new one is i need one with a longer than normal clicker pole, Or ill have to add an extension super glued on. But overall it just needs to be an 18650 sized round PCB forward clicky with a 5mm longer than normal pole.
Now i have you confused, if you could just point me to a few good USA retailers that sell switches.
And any Chinese ones past MF,KD and DX.
BTW an Olight M20 kicks butt with what id call about 800 lumens at 3A being thrown out of it. I didnt like the idea of self modding a $100 light as i have MANY budget lights. But the XM-L made for the light is $40 and only rated at 370 lumens.
I gotta admit im rather pleased with my modding abilities as both the pill and switch took major steps to get them working. I only mention this as it was a big goal of mine to get into modding my lights so i can make them do what i want when i get something that doesnt work like i want or is a bad part needing replacing. (Pats self on back)
The switch in it now fits perfectly, But it doesn't operate right since its not a forward clicky.
It actually just and on/off switch and had a pcb under it that powered a side mode button which none of it was comparable with my MF XM-L P60 drop-in i modded to fit the light. So i modded it and removed the PCB and side mode button and made in just a simple on/off switch but it wont change modes like a forward clicky, It will cycle them with the switch in the off position tho. But its not a good setup and i just made this work until i could order the right switch.
But yes i can glue extensions on, I just prefer to find a taller setup for more reliability as switches take alot of abuse and super glued extensions may not last long, But who knows on that.
Im just gonna order one from one of the usual China retailers.
Yeh, I saw the Mr Clicky switches first as i searched all the USA retailers i knew of so i could get it faster.
But i dont need a $10 switch. That Kan-28 is perfect for what i need and i prefer ordering from MF anyhow.
The light is an 18650 light so id say it should fit with no issues and if not ill make it fit. I may have to mod it a bit and remove the spring and put the one from my light on it as it uses a screw in full cap with middle brass button instead of a screw in ring. But thats nothing to do.
I should just follow all your posts and read them as you post them so i can save myself time later looking for info you already posted i need.
Ive not done a lot of testing yet, But the Olight M20s seems to handle the 3A XM-L's heat just fine. It didn't hurt that i used both copper pills and soldered them together and filled all empty spaces with foil w/thermal compound. I just couldn't stand to pay $40 for an Olight XM-L drop in that most likely ran at 1.7A and had a driver board that was 22mm and trying to find a replacement to get a full 3A would be hard to impossible so i frankenligted it.
I just loooooove waiting on parts to be swam over here on Changs back, They really need a faster swimmer or at least put a fake shark behind him tied to his leg. :)
I never have patience to take pics when im doing a build as for the main reason my builds can have many changes of plans and i never know where im headed with it until im done. The emitter and driver was easy compared to the issues the tail switch gave me. It had a full pcb loaded with components on it so i had to rip that off just to scavenge the bare on/off switch. Then i had to redo every solder joint and reroute everything to make the right ground and spring connections.
Was easily a 10 hour job, But the tail switch took about 6 hours as i wasn't willing to steal one from a working light.
It gives my KD C8 a run for its money now, But i give the larger reflector on the C8 the advantage.