My brother has an XHP70.3 Hi in 6500k in an M3-C. When he told me what he was getting I was repulsed, but it’s actually pretty decent in person. Certainly, the lack of tint shift vs 70.2 emitters puts it in a different class already and it doesn’t really look very blue either.
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Thanks everyone, I’ve just ordered an S21E in red (his favorite color) with SFT40 in 3000k and a big a$$ battery with 6500mAh.
My 18650 are 3500mAh, so plenty of juice more, almost double.
I was thinking of getting an S2+ later, but why at this point? I will go down up the 21700 route, with an S21A, maybe.
Thanks guys for the suggestions on The LHP531 and XPH70.3 6500k. I am actually scared of such high CCTs, but I will try one at some point, maybe as a MCPCB ready emitter to swap it into my C8, where I have on the way an SFT70 3000k (I didn’t like the XPH50.3 HI R9050, too green indoors, puking green). While I guess the XPH70.3 is 6V as the SFT70 I am going to fit, the LHP531 is 3V though, right?
So also a new driver is to be taken into account.
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Let’s hope it will be sold separately on the website at some point. And the tool to remove/fit it also.
Good choice.
And if you got it with Anduril then you can turn on the lit switch and then set it down to the lowest setting. If you didn’t get Anduril you can just line the clip up with the switch and that makes it easy to find in the dark.
Teach him to always turn the light off after ramping down to the lowest mode. That way it comes on in the lowest mode.
See the recent post about the dented 21700 flat tops. And how to reduce the problem.
It will be dropped.
And if you’re going to allow him to recharge it make sure he knows to rotate the charge port cover out of the way rather than just fold it out of the way.
The only problem with the light is the lowest mode is still way too bright at times.
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Thanks for the suggestions! I always wanted an Anduril light myself, but first, I had an aversion to what looks to me a super messy diagram for the instructions. I recently found this, and I decided to pull the trigger:
Cool tip! I certainly will, thanks!
I will certainly look it up, my C8 has the same problem with 3 new 18650 Liitokala I got!
Let’s hope not, but at least he’s much shorter than me. My C8 got dropped only once, and died.
…not to rip it off. Yes, sure!
I plan to tell him that it costed 4 times more than my C8, and that if I find it on the floor, mistreated or, now I know it, with the rubber USB cover folded back, it will disappear for a month. 
I guess the problem could be solved with Anduril 2, or better with the S21Evo project.
I was looking also at the Emisar lights, but they do cost four times more than a C8, once shipped!
The only thing, I was reading about the battery, and probably it would have been better to get something less big, like 5000mAh, but with more Amperes. Well, too late.
You don;t need one for the S21E. BAK 65E is rated by Convoy for 19A, manufacturer’s webpage says 4C which means 26A.
S21E pulls 6A (+losses), S21Evo project if it finally gets finalised, will pull ~10A. That’s nothing for the battery you got.
Thanks, so in other words it’s good?
I got an Amprius SA112 6500mAh, merely for its size. It says on convoy website “Maximum tolerable current 13A”.
I didn’t see the BAK, I would have taken that one otherwise…
Edit:
The Amprius website says the same! Does it means 26A also here?
well, less good with 6A less
There is BAK in the middle of the list. Mooch tested the SA112:
It’s not that bad, it should do for the stock driver as it’s well within standard discharge rate recommended for this cell (6,5A).
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Thanks!
It arrived now, it’s beautiful!
However, the battery…
Will it be fine? I know you shouldn’t fully drain LI-Ion cells, hence I ask.
I’ve already contacted Simon asking the same, but I would like to know it earlier
Edit: Simon was faster than the forum! He made me notice that 0% is incorrect as it has 3.38V.
From my RC experience, 18650 cells shouldn’t go lower than 3.2V to maintain good health, so here we are good.
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I think those Amprius cells can be discharged down to 2,5V and their nominal voltage is 3,46V which is lower than typical 3,6-3,7V. 3,38V is perfectly fine.
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Thanks! Well, at 3.38V the light wasn’t firing up, though. So I guess it is rather useless to go down that much
Convoy and many other manufacturers put a little clear plastic disc between the tail end of the battery and the rear spring. (For shipping purposes). That’s why it wasn’t working. If you look in the area where you took the battery out you’ll probably find that disc on the table or floor.
You may have to use your son’s new flashlight to find it.
With a new light it doesn’t hurt to go into battery voltages that low just to see what the light does but in normal use you should definitely consider charging at 3.7v.
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If I’m not mistaken, you get a 3.0V warning by blink and the light cuts the power at 2.8V.
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