Ideas for this T6

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

So I got this so called Ultrafire T6 I ordered from eBay. Naturally it's a total fake, even says Latticebright right on the star.

It is set up as a 5 mode, very cheap 5 mode, if you turn it off when you turn it back on it advances to the next mode. Either way I was thinking of just ordering a real Cree already set just solder the leads assuming this can be that simple.

That is my question. Can it be that simple?

Any thoughts or ideas of specifics are very welcome.

This will be my first real attempt at modifying any of my lights. My soldering skills are a little rusty but I can fix that.

Pictures below...

Thanks...

As you can see below it is not.

2

It’s a real Cree XM-L.
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XML

3

Why would Latticebright be on the star?

Also I will add another photo of how blue the light is. The picture is a little crude but you can see it in the picture.

The light on the left is from the T6 I am asking about here. The light on the right is from a known Cree XM-L

I have never seen an XM-L with all the blue. That picture shows some of the blue coloring, but not near as much as if you see it live.

4

The color alone isn’t enough of an indicator, but the inscription on the star and size of the die under the dome tell me it’s LB, not a genuine XM-L

5

I have some close up shots of it, seeing those tell you right away it is not a Cree, I knew as soon as it arrived and I opened the box that it was a clone of some sort so I opened it up before even putting a battery in it.

But it throws good and I do like the T6 model, Just need a bit of help with how simple or difficult and or suggestions on where to order parts.

6

It is not a genuine Cree XM-L, it’s a fake LatticeBright. If you wish to replace it, then yes, it really is that simple.

Replace it with a genuine XM-L, XM-L2, or XP-G2.

Do you have a multi-meter to check the current at the tailcap? That would give us an idea of the driver specs…

Look at the driver; it likely has a surface mount capacitor on it (looks like a beige box with silver ends) that is part of the next-mode-memory function that is so worthless. Use a pencil to scribble across the top of that component and it will disable the next mode, so the light will always start on the first mode. Or, just replace the driver with a good one.

Mountain Electronics is the best source for parts:

…but if I’m not in a hurry, I’ll occasionally buy from FastTech.

7

Yes from what I see of the light it looks nice.
If you measure the driver, aybe the new Convoy 17m with Biscott can fit there…
And you can choose how an 7138 chips that has so use less then 8 if heatsinking is not good on the light. the drivers are cheap.

8

Swapping parts certainly can be as simple as ordering the right sizes and soldering two wires between driver and LED.

Mtnelectronics.com is your friend if this is your first time. Very detailed descriptions on the drivers they sell, and very helpful answering other questions. The owner is a senior member here.

9

I got 1.3 amps, let me get a different meter with better leads and check it again.

10

1.36 that's the best meter I have.

11

1.36A would be good for about 400 lumens on a real XM-L…

12

At that current level, you could swap the XM-L with an XP-G2 or even an XP-E2 to get a brighter spot, but with a smaller projected image.

It looks like it has a hollow pill, so heatsinking is probably not the best on that light, but it should be sufficient at that lower power level. Of course, that depends on the 18650 you are using. Is it an UltraFire with an impossibly high power rating? Some of the lower quality cells can’t push much current…

13

Terry White sorry, just I did not know out about Latticebright. :slight_smile:
I bought the same lights four years ago, and they all seem to have been the CREE.

14

I did test it with a few batteries and one of them was an Ultrafire that came with some light I ordered months back. I have testing out a battery that someone at work talked about ECOGEAR FX 3000mAh, I have one that should come out of the charger any minute now and I will test it with that one. I actually hit 1.4 after I used the better meter but it would drop as low as 1.33 then bounce back to as high as 1.4 again.

Just tested my SK98 which is also classified as a T6. I know it has a real Cree XM-L and it's pulling between 2.17 to as high as 2.60

15

Back then they were, now you never know what you are going to get, I got lucky on Amazon on my last purchases. I ordered 3 of the Ultrafire mini's that have real Cree Q-5's and I saw the SK98 and remembered one I had some years back so I ordered it. I am going to stick with that vendor until he sends me a fake. So far I got pretty lucky.

16

Hmm hollow pill and not that high in the amps, for $2,20 (and shipping) you can order a Nichia 219b on copper from Jaxman.

17

Just got 1.4 with a battery that just completed charging, as high as 1.8 but did not stay there, leveled out at 1.4

18

But it will not do too much when the battery is not full anymore.
Same problem with the XP-G2 if i’m not mistaking.
Better to put in a XM-L2 or even an XM-L if you want to enjoy all the mAh’s of your battery.
(but correct me if iḿ wrong)

@TS: Since the pill is hollow, i would keep the stock driver, it won’t get too hot.

19

Ooh,that’s quite a drop… :frowning:

20

That is from the T6 with the Latticebright in it, so that is actually a tiny bit higher. My SK98 is the light I got the higher reading from, I checked it just to check the meter.