I have some extra recessed light trims, I’m assuming the driver is useless unless I want to make something that runs on 120v?
What about the LED ITSELF?
WHY DOES A 30 WATT LED ONLY OUTPUT 600 LUMENS AND REQUIRED SUCH HIGH VOLTAGE
I’M WONDERING I’D I CAN USE THE LED IN SOMETHING PORTABLE
THE LED LIGHTING CPU LOOKS INTERESTING BUT I have to figure out how to test it and see what it does.
It was used in solar powered LED parking lot lighting
!http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/brintiff/Mobile%20Uploads/20160618_115100.jpg!
!http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/brintiff/Mobile%20Uploads/20160618_115115.jpg!
!http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/brintiff/Mobile%20Uploads/20160618_125007.jpg!
What 30W LED? Maybe it's a "30W equivalent" or something?
I see an LED driver that says "DC OUTPUT: 38V= 210 mA" (and 38V * 0.21A = 7.98W), and a box saying "9.2W"; I don't see lumen specs on either picture, but for either 8 or 9 watts, 600 lumens isn't terribly bad (67 or 75 lm/W). If I'm correct to understand that the LED driver is what's inside the box, 9.2W would be the AC input power, the driver is about 87% efficient, and the LED makes 75 lm/W. (A good LED might be 100 or 150 lm/W, and the best are over 200 lm/W when operated at low power -- but it always drops off with higher power, and nobody wants to pay for twice as many LEDs running at half the power just to boost efficiency.)
So much voltage is "needed" because, in the AC-powered lighting world, it's easier to drive 210mA at 36V than, say, 1260mA at 6V. So the LED has at least 12 individual dice wired in series (could be 24 in 12s2p, or some such), by choice, to make things easier. Of course that makes things harder if you want to drive it off batteries, as you need to step the voltage way up, or string an annoying number of cells in series to get the 36V or so needed.
Can't be sure without seeing the LED array, but I expect it's a fairly good-sized source, so anything you make with it will be pretty floody (or have impractically large optics). If you've got a use for a portable floodlight, though, you could find some suitable DC converter (look for "step-up" or "boost") and have at it. How many you got? Despite their low efficiency, a half dozen of those on a good heatsink with modest overdriving could be 4000 lumens of flood, about like a 250W halogen worklight. Still, you could get that same 4000 lumens out of a couple XHP70s, or a couple triple 219Cs, on the same heatsink without even trying; either of those combinations are in the $25-30 range, so unless you find a suitable (1.5-2A) boost converter below that, it's hard to see it as a bargain. Haven't really priced that sort of thing, so maybe if you shop around, it turns out to be feasible. (Or maybe you'd rather do something cool with these, even if it costs more than buying other LEDs to do the same thing -- if it's a hobby, it doesn't have to make economic sense.)
One other thought -- there are a few 36 volt and 40 volt power tool systems. If you have one of these, or come across an incredible deal on a couple batteries and a charger, you could take some suitably bulky body (maybe a 6V "lantern", maybe a spotlight with 12V SLA, maybe something homemade) and build a portable floodlight that takes one of those batteries for power.
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