Needing a driver that is good for 6v, and want a Nanjg 105c style driver that is programmable. I see that IS list one that is supposed to be good for 6v, but every other one I've seen is rated at 4.5v max. Will this driver really handle the additional voltage okay?
A few family and close friends want my good light, so I'm building them one.They will be built on SolarForce/Ultrafire platform which makes my primary power source either an 18650 or 2x CR123 batteries. Since the people receiving aren't flashlight people, I'm thinking that CR123 batts are the better choice. Since I will be giving them away, it would be cheaper on my wallet as well. No $10 each batteries and $20+ chargers, one bulk pack of batts and good to go.
Lights for my self and one of the lights I plan to give will probably get a Dr.Jones driver. These that will have CR123s will be simple 3/5 mode lights, but will be reprogrammed to get rid of next mode memory and put the modes in a proper order. That's why I want programmable drivers.
CR123’s usually drop to 2.5v if you put anything close to an amp on them so you should be good for all modes except low. And even then the difference is only 1.5v, it should work. Old Lumens seems to have luck driving Nanjg’s with 4xAA/AAA carriers so they must have a degree of flexibility in their input voltage. I think the Nanjg’s are rated as such to keep people from powering them with two li-ions in series.
So it almost sounds like any 105c version should handle 6v. That would be great as I never wanted to use the 3.04a driver, but it was the only one I saw stating the higher voltage capacity. I didn't want to drive them that high and planned to program the high for about 75% of max to keep it running cooler when in "high" mode.
I had checked out custom lites, but apparently never paid enough attention to their driver selection. I had seen them elsewhere, but I had forgotten about the Nanjg 101 drivers. Not sure I ever even noticed that they could handle the voltage and had at tiny chips. Those look like my answer. Wander how an XM-L2 U2 will perform at 1.4a? Never even checked my current dropins are driven at so I may be in for a surprise.
I prefer American made, but all these are Chinese parts so dealer don't matter much and the money ends up there anyway. Since I'm trying to keep price down, there's money to be saved by eliminating a middle man.
The unfortunate truth. If you want to run at the reduced capacity indicated, you could just buy the 3-amp 105c and remove two of the 7135 chips, that would cut theoretical output down to about 2.2 amps, or you could buy a 6x7135 driver from a site such as Fasttech, or I believe intl-outdoor sells those drivers as well.
You mention drop-in, this is going into a P60 host? And since you plan to run it off of primaries I’m guessing this is going into a Surefire? If you want a li-ion, the Sanyo 16650UR is a great little cell, 2100mAh and it fits right where two CR123s would go. You can drive a P60 drop in to three or so amps as long as you engineer a proper thermal path out of the light. Putting a Chinese-pattern P60 into a surefire may require some filing, and most likely you will need to omit the large contact spring on the base of the module.
Yes, plan is to build p60s and use solarforce hosts. The idea was to use cr123 primaries in those two instead of using 18650 li-ions like the rest will get. After shopping some more and thinking it over I've decided to go li-ion on all.
Now to start buying parts and figure the programming I want to use.