I'm looking for my grail light 0.7" diameter 500 lumen 14500 light

WhitedragonBC · 2018-09-25T02:45:25.000Z

I use an Eagletac D25A with a 14500 in it. Only problem is the mode spacing gets a little weird. Probably like 5-150-300

EasyB · 2018-09-25T11:56:52.000Z

I agree with you about the width of the light being important. I carry a thrunite T10 on the inside front pocket. You can see my mods here. Edit: the deep carry pocket clip is also a big plus for me.

It sounds like the D25A is the right size, but it’s not bright enough and the tint is bad? To mod it you first have to take it apart, and this can be the hardest step because some manufactures use glue on the threads. Then I would use a FET+1 driver for use with a li-ion 14500. This will get you a low moonlight and also very bright turbo. Mtnelectronics has some small diameter drivers that might work for your light. Also switch out the LED for one of your choice on the correct size DTP (direct thermal path) MCPCB. Once you get it apart and post pictures we can help with part selection if you’re not sure.

I remember looking at many AA/14500 lights before I chose the T10. As you noticed most are too thick and/or use a side switch. So modding might be the best option to get all the features you want.

toddcshoe · 2018-09-25T03:00:26.000Z

moderator007:

toddcshoe:

Please tell me you are going to detail that mod in a thread on here. I have several A1’s new in the box and that just sounds like fun right there.

I might
I haven’t took any pics or anything yet, so I may have to get it operational and disassemble to take some pics to post up. I’m at a stand still right now, I think I shorted something while I was testing on my power supply and blew the mosfet. Ordered a new mosfet and reflowed it back in its place and now the drivers still acting weird. Waiting to see if Richard has any ideas on whats going on with it.
Noway I could keep a 14500 pocket rocket a secret.

Excellent. Hope you get the mosfet problem sorted out. I know the basics of how a mosfet works but thats about it. I wouldn’t be any help figuring out that problem. Well now that the secrets out of the bag I will probably bug you until you get tired of me and post all of your hard work so us lowly beginners can plagiarize your work.

Boaz · 2018-09-25T11:49:37.000Z

Eagletac ti d25A early version (2012) does 600+ lumens on an old school xml

The Xeno ES1 is the same size width/length too .I like these lights because of their quality and I agree with you it's a good size AA light.

They also share the nifty Xeno diffuser with a flat top .one of the few wand diffusers i actually like .. it fits the eagletac like it was made for it.

The ES1 is listed as a AA only light and has the Olight style.. med /low high driver...but has the best looking tint cree NW 3B I've ever seen ..and I've seen a lot of bad 3B's :P

the low is one lumen which I like

Good luck on your quest ,Sounds like you'll need to mod a light

JJMcGee83 · 2018-09-25T15:26:15.000Z

moderator007:

Which Eagletac model are you interested in?
The Ultratac A1 is quite a nice light too and small. If I had the same request you have from a small 14500 light I would choose the A1 and mod the driver and led. I’m currently working on fitting a Mtnelectronics 17mm boost driver in a A1 with a high cri xhp50.2. Should make 2000 lumens (hopefully) using a IMR Efest 14500 at least until it starts blistering my fingers. Hopeing the cell can delivery 7 amps for a few seconds.

It’s the Eagletac D25a clicky that I have. It’s a very cool tint but for size that is about perfect. Maybe a bit longer.

JJMcGee83 · 2018-09-25T15:31:08.000Z

Boaz:

Eagletac ti d25A early version (2012) does 600+ lumens on an old school xml

The Xeno ES1 is the same size width/length too .I like these lights because of their quality and I agree with you it’s a good size AA light.

They also share the nifty Xeno diffuser with a flat top .one of the few wand diffusers i actually like … it fits the eagletac like it was made for it.

The ES1 is listed as a AA only light and has the Olight style… med /low high driver…but has the best looking tint cree NW 3B I’ve ever seen …and I’ve seen a lot of bad 3B’s

the low is one lumen which I like

Good luck on your quest ,Sounds like you’ll need to mod a light

I’ve never heard of Xeno. It looks like a good size I just wish it had more output.

Geuzzz · 2018-09-25T17:18:14.000Z

D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

JJMcGee83 · 2018-09-25T17:29:48.000Z

Geuzzz:

D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?

moderator007 · 2018-09-26T03:05:54.000Z

JJMcGee83:

Geuzzz:

D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?

My opinion to achieve what you want.
I don’t know the size of the driver, so a 15mm Mtnelectronics driver with 4 7135’s might work or 17mm with 4 7135’s removed filed down if its 16mm.
I think 4 7135’s will work with a nichia or samsung led in a high CRI to get you to the 500 lumen mark. 4 7135’s will give about 1400ma except on the 17mm driver, 4 will give about 1490ma. Its possible with the 17mm driver only 3 7135’s would be needed to reach 500 lumens depending on the led you use. I prefer the Samsung 4000k LH351D 90 CRI. The drivers from Mtn have different UI’s you can chose from.
If the D25a is your chosen size light but lacks other features, then modding it should get you your holy grail.
For most of us modders that’s the whole reason we do it, we can’t buy a light exactly like we want it.

Cereal_killer · 2018-09-26T03:13:42.000Z

The L3 L10 clicky would be a potential mod host of you didn’t want to mod the D25C.

JJMcGee83 · 2018-09-26T03:32:41.000Z

moderator007:

JJMcGee83:

Geuzzz:

D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.

They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?

My opinion to achieve what you want.
I don’t know the size of the driver, so a 15mm Mtnelectronics driver with 4 7135’s might work or 17mm with 4 7135’s removed filed down if its 16mm.
I think 4 7135’s will work with a nichia or samsung led in a high CRI to get you to the 500 lumen mark. 4 7135’s will give about 1400ma except on the 17mm driver, 4 will give about 1490ma. Its possible with the 17mm driver only 3 7135’s would be needed to reach 500 lumens depending on the led you use. I prefer the Samsung 4000k LH351D 90 CRI. The drivers from Mtn have different UI’s you can chose from.
If the D25a is your chosen size light but lacks other features, then modding it should get you your holy grail.
For most of us modders that’s the whole reason we do it, we can’t buy a light exactly like we want it.

What kind of tools would I need to do something like that?

Cereal_killer:

The L3 L10 clicky would be a potential mod host of you didn’t want to mod the D25C.

That looks like a neat little light.

RobertB · 2018-09-26T03:38:07.000Z

Jetbeam Jet 1 Mk. 1.5 to 480lm. 14500/AA twisty. .76” at knurling on the head, .66” battery tube. Great build quality, and inexpensive. I bought several a year or two ago in the 10 dollar each range. I don’t normally like twistys, but this is an exception.

moderator007 · 2018-09-26T03:39:40.000Z

Its hard to say exactly without knowing how everything is in the light. A soldering iron of 50 watts or more, solder, flux, probably a file, maybe needle nose pliers, thermal paste and a frying pan and stove.

JJMcGee83 · 2018-09-26T05:27:46.000Z

moderator007:

Its hard to say exactly without knowing how everything is in the light. A soldering iron of 50 watts or more, solder, flux, probably a file, maybe needle nose pliers, thermal paste and a frying pan and stove.

What would I need a frying pan and stove for?

Boaz · 2018-09-26T08:44:08.000Z

Girls gotta eat ..

To reflow the emitter onto the mcpcb...and snacks

moderator007 · 2018-09-26T11:02:40.000Z

Boaz:

Girls gotta eat …

To reflow the emitter onto the mcpcb…and snacks

That’s it. That method works good and you should already have what you need for this step. Sometimes it’s easier to reflow a new emitter on to the existing board in the light.

Jambo · 2018-11-08T13:43:43.000Z

The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?

I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.

Illumenated · 2018-11-08T15:17:03.000Z

I pretty much want Toykeeper’s interface in ALL my lights

SKV89 · 2018-11-08T18:28:54.000Z

I modded a Sofirn SF14 with a E21A 4000k on 16mm mcpcb from Virence.com. Very easy to do as all you have to do is solder the two wires. Don’t have to reflow the emitters. It is around 500 lumens on 14500. The tint is the most beautiful 4000k tint in existence. It looks almost identical to the 219B 4000k 9080. Compared with my LH351D 4000k 90CRI, it makes the LH351D look like puke green.

Another potential candidate is the Enogear 14500 stainless steel with usb recharge. It is a tiny 14500 light. The tint is decent 4000k-4500k but not as good as the Enogear AA stainless version, which is superb.

OverBudget · 2018-11-10T16:23:33.000Z

Jambo:

The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?

I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.

I just recently got one of the new D25a MKII lights. I am really not impressed with the 14500 function of it. I bought Eagtac brand 14500s, and they are too long for the light. When used in the light, the three basic modes work fine, but to turn the head to use the turbo mode, I have to turn the head so tight that I nearly need pliers to loosen it. Maybe it would function better with a shorter 14500 battery, but it gets really hot after about a minute of use on high with the 14500, and moonlight mode turns more like medium mode, so I just put a AA in it. I got the neutral xp-l hi version, the beam is great and I’m very happy with the neutral tint, which is a warmer than my other “neutral” lights. I’m very happy with the light, just not the 14500 function of it.