As stated, I’m new to this forum. Just found it, and it’s already a HUGE help, with alot of great info. Thank you to everyone that has posted reviews and info for the rest of us!
My question is regarding the ThruNite Archer 2C V2. I just ordered the light, but not batteries. I already have 18650’s (flat-tops) for vaping, so I figured I could just use them for both vape and light. But now I’ve seen a couple places that say I’ll NEED button-top 18650s if they’re not protected. Anybody that has this model, can you verify? I’d hate to get the light, but then have to order batteries and have to wait to use my light.
I’ve been using 18650s for years now (vaping), so I have a good charger, multi-meter, and a good basic knowledge of rechargeable batteries and how they discharge, so using unprotected cells doesn’t worry me too much. I usually pull them around 3.5 to 3.8 (ish). But I’m always up for more knowledge/advice, so if I NEED to use protected cells for flashlights, let me know!
Sorry if this has been covered already, I tried searching within this forum and Google, but got conflicting answers. Thank you for your help, as well as your patience lol.
A tiny magnet stuck to the top of a flat cell will suffice for a button-top. A more permanent solution is a blob of solder, but if you do that go hot and fast so that the cell doesn’t have time to get damaged from the heat. I haven’t tried this light so maybe a flat-top will work, I dunno. Vaping pulls a higher amp draw than any flashlight so your current cells should do well other than the button-top issue and as long as you maintain your current attitude towards discharge voltage and checking it, you won’t need protected cells.
This hobby can be addicting so if you find yourself drooling guard your wallet and run away while there’s still something in it And welcome to BLF!
Thank you for your responses! I’m actually trying to figure out if I NEED button-top 18650s, versus flat-tops. I’m pretty sure the protected cells fit fine, but I’ve seen some people say it HAS to be a button-top, if not using a protected (longer) cell. But others have said any 18650 will do. I’m hoping someone that has the ThruNite Archer can chime in tell me for sure.
Nothing at all wrong with using unprotected batteries. If the light doesn’t have low battery protection built in, just be careful not to run the battery all the way down. It seems that there IS a little button on the driver/contact board so it should make contact with no need for a magnet or solder on the unprotected battery.
You will be fine, just don’t run your battery all the way down.
Thanks Phil, good to know that worst case, my batts don’t fit and I can solder them (I use solder daily for my job). I believe I have magnets as well. Great advice! And oh yea, I’ve already got more lights on the “to get” list lol. Addicting for sure!!!
According to this selfbuilt review of the Thrunite Archer v2 series, the Archer 1A, 1C, and 2A have a reverse polarity protection feature so that only a button top battery will work. He says that the 2C should work with flattops. The review contains pics of the inside of the tube so you can see where the positive end of the battery contacts with the head.
The Archer has a low voltage indicator, which blinks, then goes solid when it’s waaay down there. But honestly, I’ve gotten used to pulling my batteries and checking them (multimeter). Alot of vaping horror stories out there, so I’ve always been pretty good about pulling them around 3.6ish. But flashlights are not vape mods, so any/all info is appreciated! Thanks for your help!
My first day on this forum as a member, though I’ve lurked here a lil to gather information for what light to get. I’m really impressed with how many responses I’ve gotten within an hour!
Just wanted to say thanks (again) for helping out the new guy.
Actually, according to this review Review. ThruNite Archer 2C V2, the reviewer says that “shorter non protected flat top batteries would not reliably work”. It seems that the length of the battery is the main concern.
If you do opt for the solder blob, which I recommend over a magnet, do be patient and careful To avoid heating the cell too much.
What I do is lightly scratch the positive contact. Then lightly sand the same area with some 120 sand paper. Apply a thin layer of flux to the sanded area, and a little bit of solder (63/37 rosin core) to the tip of my iron (I have it set higher temp than normal driver/mcpcb soldering). Press the iron to the center of the contact for a brief second enough to leave a little blob of solder on the contact. Give it a few minutes to fully cool down. Apply a little more solder to the iron and apply it to the contact, spreading the solder around on the contact.
The main concern is to apply as little heat to the cell as possible. The resulting bump doesnt need to be more than 1-2mm in height.
Thanks guys that’s alot of VERY useful info. I think I may just order a couple protected or button top batts just to be safe. I can always use good 18650s. Is there a good trusted source with good prices with in stock 18650s? I usually order them with vape products, and they are mostly flat tops. And never protected cells. New to batteries for lights.
Richard is a respected member here. He stocks quality products and the prices are very reasonable:
Except for very high-current lights, the LG MJ1s and Sanyo-Panasonic GAs are current favorites.
Another very popular cell is the Samsung 30Q. It is a hi-drain cell, but does well in almost any application.
Protected vs. non-protected is a somewhat personal choice. But keep in mind that the protection circuit and related conductor strip add more points of potential failure. You also end up with a cell that is larger than 18x65mm. They are, however, the no-brainer choice for lights with multiple series-connected cells.