Improve a Dirt Cheap Zoomie as First Ever Mod.

So, I have a cheap zoomie that started all this. It cost £4.50 (~$6.50) delivered. Now that I have some good stuff this "poor relation" has become surplus to requirements, so it's time for a little experimentation mwahahaah !

I love fiddling with things and thought this would be a harmless and easy first try !

The driver and the star sit at either end of a lightweight aluminium tube and the only heat conduction path is through a ~1.5mm rebate that holds the star so I I'm definitely not looking to burn anyone's retinas out.

I was thinking a nice high CRI LED, perhaps a 219B or C would be a good idea. The light comes out completely without a hotspot so it would be quite handy to illuminate small jobs evenly with a pleasant even glow instead of the ugly pale blue/green yuch that came as standard.

Please let me know what components (inexpensive) you suggest and where to order them from (delivered to UK) I found some here at FastTech who seem reliable but would welcome other suggestions. Also, just how bad are the original components ??

Also, how on earth has the brass coloured threaded disk that holds the star down not been shorting out the blue and red wire soldering points ?

I really don't understand how that's in any way not a stupid design for a) threatening a short and b) not being part of a thermal path.

Whats the diameter of that driver? If it’s 17mm you have plenty of driver options. The Nichia 219c is nice for zoomies, when the beam is focused it’s a much nicer solid uniform beam. I’d assume the 219b is the same but I have never used one.

Have you checked of that brass disk actually conducts electricity? Maybe it’s coated and does not? Or it wasn’t screwed on tight and rested on top of the silicon of the wires, never touching the solder joints.

Regarding the brass retaining disk, perhaps the OP did not realize the clear plastic disc behind it and dropped it or maybe it is stuck under the brass disc in the photo. All zoomies that I own have one.

Hi, the driver and the star are both 20mm. When I first looked at it the brass disc was completely loose, so I thin I nearly caused a disaster by nipping it tight ! I'll check the conductivity.

I would be interested to hear the suggestions as that is the same zoomie a buddy and I bought for work for about $9 a piece. It also started the chain of events that led me here. As low on the flashlight food chain as it is, it impresses those still carrying maglites and various incandescents.

Hi, there was no insulating disc.! Thanks for pointing that out. There must be something heat resistant enough to cut one out of. Maybe microwavable meal container... Perhaps I can get one with my driver order.

Yep 20mm driver.

The LED is a lattice bright so its rubbish the driver is bad it only does 1.2 amp max I have used one. I bridged those resistors now I get 2.3 amps at the tailcap I had the same style set up with a ultrafire c8 with a hollow pill I kept the light it now has a xpg3 in it and an op reflector. Its actually not bad.you can turn the driver into direct drive I think I don’t know how but.

Hi ! Hahaa I knew I wouldn't be the only one :-)

I thought I read on another thread about this light that by moving the wire on the LI LED- (blue wire in pics above) to the LED-, it would increase the output. But I maybe confusing 2 different threads :person_facepalming:

Hey mate.

yep it was cheap lol!

I had a zoomie piece of junk ultrafire I fixed it kinda! You can make this light better if you want but is it worth it?

This is relatively easy to mod. I’ve done several of these and they’re are quite amazing when modded.

1) CREE XP-L HI V2 3B LED on Noctigon 20mm MCPCB

OR Dedomed XP-G2

2) FET + 7135 Driver - 20mm - MTN-20DDm

3) Omten 1217 Reverse Clicky Switch

I just want to see what can be done without spending much and to have a go at setting up a driver and LED to see how things work.

Okay…

Keep it simple, don’t overdrive anything:

For this size light, I recommend the XP-G2, no need to de-dome. I prefer a cooler tint.
@ FastTech, $1.58 on aluminum star:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001905/1311504-cree-xpgbwt-xp-g2-r5-1a-472-lumen-6500-7000k-led

Single-mode 1.75A driver, also available at lower drive currents, or just remove 7135s to get what you want, $1.97:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10017778/3647300

The Nichia high-CRI emitters will be a bit more expensive, you can purchase those via Mtn as linked above.

An option would be to mount the LED/PCB to the pill, then add some JB-Weld to fill the hollow behind the PCB to help heat sinking.

For a higher-powered properly-fitted driver, you can use the 105E from KaiDomain:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023811

Improve heatsinking, and use this driver with a XP-G2 on Noctigon for a decent little light…

Does the Led sit on a shelf or is it hollow where the led sits? Practicing on these lights are okay only thing that is a pain is that you have to solder the driver to the body.

Thank you !

This parts information is what I'm looking for really. The only problem is Mountain Electronics postage charges to the UK would make the total bill about $30, (which would be OK in a decent host). I would get those parts or very similar and do it as they could also be re-used, but the total bill would be too much for this project.

Anyone know of a European or Chinese source for these (or similar) components ?

Hollow ... it sits on a tiny rebate on the inside of a short aluminium tube.

Yea heaps of options

http://intl-outdoor.com/

https://www.fasttech.com/

219C is not yet available in 90+CRI, has a larger die size than the 219B and won’t throw as well though it can survive much higher current.

Brilliant... these are the sort of prices I was hoping for !