Increasing flood

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-26T11:56:01.000Z

it’s a motorcycle headlight. unfortunately there’s no halogen bulb but instead 2 leds for low beam, and 1 for high. so modding is a bit difficult.

which led should i go for ?

Yokiamy · 2019-09-26T12:03:31.000Z

Interesting, you might wanna try this link

LED test / review - OSRAM OSLON Black Flat HWQP - still highest luminance of all LEDs to date! Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

LED test / review EN Osram Oslon Black Flat HWQP LUW HWQP-8M7N-ebvF46fcbB4 UPDATE --- 06/23/18 --- raw data added! (link) Since several months this LED is a well-known and popular choice for ultra-long range distance flashlights (throwers). Many performance values are already known from other users / tests, but with this test / review I want give you and all these who want to start a project with this very interesting LED the opportunity to check all values and importan…

Since there already are Osram Black Flat LED’s you might be able to exchange them for something else with a higher output, drawback of higher output it the tint will be worse

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-26T12:28:53.000Z

White flats are an option but i really doubt it will make noticeable difference without increasing current. also there’s thermal pad issue, don’t know if i can reflow white flat on mcpcb which doesn’t have isolated thermal pad.

Cereal_killer · 2019-09-26T17:50:45.000Z

Someone did a similar mod to their scooter headlight,think it was clemance. Maybe search for it to get some ideas.

Lightbringer · 2019-09-26T17:56:15.000Z

You can take small patches of stick-on diffusion film and apply them in places to selectively scatter light.

Some film is really diffusey and scatters well, others only a bit, like the difference between smooth and orange-peel reflector.

Using DF like that, you don’t have to mess with the innards of the light, and it’s completely 100%ly reversible.

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-26T19:21:23.000Z

Lightbringer:

You can take small patches of stick-on diffusion film and apply them in places to selectively scatter light.

Some film is really diffusey and scatters well, others only a bit, like the difference between smooth and orange-peel reflector.

Using DF like that, you don’t have to mess with the innards of the light, and it’s completely 100%ly reversible.

Oh, i have tried it once. unfortunately it lowers intensity too much and makes it almost unusable.

i guess i should go with XHP50 3v or XHP35HI or something. maybe a HIGH CRI led ?

Lightbringer · 2019-09-26T19:34:22.000Z

To get more light where it’s not going now, but still keep the intensity that you want, you’d need to dramatically increase total light output, then. Twice the lumens only shows maybe 30% brighter, visually.

So, a bigger chip would be a wider hotspot, but intensity would decrease.

High-CRI, just like warmer CTs, would mean less efficiency and less total light output.

Ironically, Angry Blue would be more efficient, albeit look hideous.

Dunno if that answered anything, but those are things to keep in mind.

Yokiamy · 2019-09-26T19:40:42.000Z

Maybe uh XPL2 HD?
Wow, did i really say that?

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-26T19:44:20.000Z

hmm, so which 3v led has maximum output @1.5A ? xpl2 hd ?

Yokiamy · 2019-09-26T19:51:42.000Z

LED test / review - Cree XLamp XP-L2 V5 40E & U6 40H 90 CRI – High light flux and low Vf, but very huge spread in performance Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

LED test / review EN Cree XLamp XP-L2 XPLBWT-00-0000-000BV540E (4000 K 70 CRI) XPLBWT-00-0000-000UU640H (4000 K 90 CRI) In September 2016, Cree released the next generation of XP-L, the XP-L2. The manufacturer claims that lumen density, voltage characteristics and reliability has to be improved. August 2017 I tested this LED already, you can find this outdated test in the german TLF. This test is different from my first test in the TLF. My measurements are more ac…

Maybe other members have other proposals?

clemence · 2019-09-26T20:35:03.000Z

Easy fix: make a small diffuser from lapped PMMA place directly on top the LED. Adjust the lapping grid to your liking. Coarser = wider beam
Harder fix (less light loss): change to bigger LED or several LEDs. Osram, Lumileds, and Nichia make such automotive LED with several option from single small point source to linear array. In my scooter case, I swap the 1mmx1mm Stanley LED to E21A and later to 319A. I faced similar problem with you, not enough side light for navigating in fast cornering situation.

[Clemence]

clemence · 2019-09-26T20:38:00.000Z

I haven’t update my thread. Now I use 319A with much bigger die. E21A creates more flood but wasn’t enough. With 319A It’s almost perfect although the hotspot brightness reduced significantly compared to original Stanley LED.

[Clemence]

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-27T06:46:28.000Z

hmm, just saw your thread. it’s pretty much what i want. stock headlight is pretty much crap. YAMAHA should be ashamed.

btw, i saw some 2x-4x leds arrays on aliexpress. from Osram CFLNM1, CHLNM1.TG. would those leds work better than 319A ? although it will require additional heatsinking. but i was wondering if i could increase flood without lowering intensity that much by using those 2x/3x led arrays.

thanks for your thread btw, it’s really helpful.

clemence · 2019-09-27T13:45:24.000Z

slopegatri70:

hmm, just saw your thread. it’s pretty much what i want. stock headlight is pretty much crap. YAMAHA should be ashamed.

btw, i saw some 2×-4x leds arrays on aliexpress. from Osram CFLNM1, CHLNM1.TG. would those leds work better than 319A ? although it will require additional heatsinking. but i was wondering if i could increase flood without lowering intensity that much by using those 2x/3x led arrays.

thanks for your thread btw, it’s really helpful.

Most road legal motorcycle/car front lighting is a compromise between driver’s safety and other road user’s safety. So, max visibility at the driver’s side could be minimum visibility/blindness for others. Sharp cut-off, beam pattern, and max lux hitting the road regulated by each country rule. Please modify your headlight responsibly! Use common sense, even without standardized equipment you can tell if your modification is potentially dangerous to other or not by simply test it. Ask your friend to ride it while you’re pretending to be a pedestrian or other road user.
Modifying front light type like ours is relatively easy in concept, very doable, and safer because the reflector designed for minimal glare and very sharp cut-off. So, as long as you aim your headlight properly it should be OK for road use. Your headlight has more potential than mine. Please post more pictures from different angles. I need to see the installed position of the whole reflector - LED assembly.

[Clemence]

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-27T19:35:25.000Z

clemence:

Your headlight has more potential than mine. Please post more pictures from different angles. I need to see the installed position of the whole reflector - LED assembly.

[Clemence]

Will these help ?

^ high beam @ 10 feet.

^ low beam @ 10 feet. 2x black flat leds.

high+ low beam. see how pathetic it is. :person_facepalming:

clemence · 2019-09-27T19:54:50.000Z

I’m still working at the moment. Will get back to you in about 2 hours. I checked all your images and it’s (relatively) easy to fix as long as you have access to all the components.

[Clemence]

clemence · 2019-09-27T23:08:49.000Z

Does the low beam positioned on top? Normally, with this kind of reflector, the LED source shooting downwards for low beam. The reason is to create a very sharp cut-off. Pretty common for all Stanley headlamp. Honda and Yamaha almost exclusively rely on Stanley for all their lighting system.

The low beam looks pretty decent for me. With correct aim, this profile should creates an evenly lit area. Notice the nice gradual intensity in the vertical axis. But, horizontally, the hot spot is too narrow. adding more LED in parallel (halving same current) will cure the problem easily.

The high beam looks bad indeed (too narrow). the beam angle coverage looks good for approx. 100m but at that range it’s too dim. Am I correct? Most Stanley motorcycle headlight has common problem: the high beam profile although good on it’s own, doesn’t angled adequately to cover more horizontal/vertical area in low to medium speed driving distance (< 100m). This makes setting for optimal high beam position makes the low beam to high (and glares other road users), and vice versa.

Hahaha, this is a subtle OEM “night speed control”

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[Clemence]

slopegatri70 · 2019-09-28T04:54:46.000Z

clemence:

Does the low beam positioned on top?

Yes, low beam is on top, high beam on bottom.

The low beam looks pretty decent for me. With correct aim, this profile should creates an evenly lit area. Notice the nice gradual intensity in the vertical axis. But, horizontally, the hot spot is too narrow. adding more LED in parallel (halving same current) will cure the problem easily.

So, i should go ahead with 2 led array for this ? or 2mm osram white flat ? main limitation here is heatsink. it can take upto 18w as per my testings.

The high beam looks bad indeed (too narrow). the beam angle coverage looks good for approx. 100m but at that range it’s too dim. Am I correct?

yep. for short distance it’s good. but really weak for anything over 60-70 mtrs.

, this is a subtle OEM “night speed control” :laughing:

clemence · 2019-09-28T12:03:13.000Z

White flat should be easier to begin with. You can easily revert to OEM. 2X array could be decided later if you think white flat is not large enough.

[Clemence]

Macka17 · 2019-09-29T02:11:29.000Z

I don’t know if this a enclosed bike front or open frame/forks.

Low looks fine.
Just buy a 8/12in multi spread bar for 4wd. outers spread. centre spot.
Install on bike wired into High beam sw.
Best of both worlds.
I have LED lights in front of both cars (exchanged) with 18in bar on front wired to high.

Turn that on. the whole planet in front of you lights up. Forever.
Best thing you can install on any wheeled vehicle.
as long as YOU use it sensibly.
Quadruples the light output of any vehicle.