I have no idea if Sofirn has expertise in this. The specifications in the OP are a combination of specs that all can be found in one or more Sofirn lights, which in my expectation helps in the speed and costs of this project. But asking does not hurt, it may just be no problem to do the infinite variable or this type of dimming.
It seems i have what you describe as ’10B (wasn’t that the colored body version?)
I quite dislike the light for that firefly mode, actually.
Just like the Astrolux A01…
And the jump to the next mode is huge too…
May the Dark Purple Lord B’harni (pbuh!) forgive me for saying so, but strangely enough the eee-vil Tac-Light you see on teevee comes close. It’s got a tailswitch driver, a nice big fat (yet slightly recessed) soft-touch tailswitch, and it just has one simple main cycle with no multiclicks nor holds nor anything of the kind. It has h/m/l/strobe/SOS/off.
Trade those modes for just l/h/off or l/m/h/off, but keep the tail-driver, and you can have a winner. Easy to actuate even for arthritic fingers, nothing complex about it, just chop off the head and put the appropriate TIR or whatever you want.
I got a 4×AAA LuxPro that comes close. Same tailswitch driver (uncapping and shorting makes it just come on high) can be used with the same feather-touch switch-button.
There are 20mm stars that have 1- or 2 7135s already mounted (or at least pads to do so), to make it simple-stoopit to fire up the LED while limiting current. Regulated, and no ballast resistor needed nor wanted.
(I keep on getting “please try again…” pages from FT, but try this: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1133803-universal-star-base-plates-with-350ma-amc7135-driv .)
So… dunno how emotionally attached everyone might be to magswitches, but there are alternatives for gramma-lights.
I’m in, this type of light is much needed
I’m a tir guy so that’s a big plus for me.
But I would prefer (and not only me) 4000k instead of 5000k.
And smooth brightening like RRT01 instead of 3 modes.
And maybe the 21700 version?
That’s the whole SP10 saga. There was the original ’10A as I described, then the newer ’10B also as I described. But then the black ’B became the new ’A, while the same new red/blue ’Bs stayed ’Bs.
And then there were newer UIs in ’As or ’Bs or whatever, then the ’S, and other variants which still make my head hurt just thinking about it.
I got enough SP10s that I really didn’t need to buy any more, so that keeps my brain from exploding.
….so how about the separate SP10 driver they sell?
Any idea what that does?
(sorry, i shouldn’t derail this thread like this…)
One of my often used and “can you lend me a flashlight” is my Nitecore SRT6. I really like it’s easy UI, forward clicky at the tail and the rest is done by the magnetic ring.
I think everybody who has Electronic dimmers at home will understand that.
What I do not completly like about it, are the blinkies, hidden behind their detents and that you can turn it off completly via that dial.
In my eyes on/off by a forward clicky and infinite ramping starting at moonlight would be perfect.
I simply do Not know anybody needing blinkies.
And from what I’m used to by my Dad, let that blinkies be hidden in the very last closet in the very last corner. They will find them!
Hit the switch - light
Turn the magnetic ring - more or less light.
Not much to explain.
But let’s see what this one will become.
Count me in for one!
Interested, depending LED (LH351D will be OK) and price
I think there’s a lot to like here, but a small number of fixed modes really seems to be squandering the potential of a magnetic control ring. I’d also be disappointed by a 10 lumen low if it’s technically possible to get it lower. Muggles have dark adaptation too, and the biggest concern is probably leaving it on by accident.
USB-C is a great choice, but a lot of USB-C lighting stuff has implemented USB incorrectly and will not charge using C-to-C. If my aunt plugs it in to her Macbook charger because that is the right plug and it doesn’t work, she’s going to expect it to be charged when she gets back in the evening and potentially have a pretty negative experience if it was important for her to have a working flashlight.
LH351D 5000K is a great choice too. 5000K isn’t everyone’s favorite, but nobody hates it.
I know what can be done with a magnetic control ring, I love my RRT01 for its smooth ramp and ultra-low. But that is not the reason a magnetic ring is used in this light, it is used because it is extremely intuitive and therefore suitable for everybody, without explanation. My Sofirn SD03 has a magnetic ring with 3 discrete modes, just off-low-med-high-off (repeat) and that is superbly useful and needs no explanation.
I think that an infinite ramp ring would not hurt the simplicity of this light, in fact it seems just as simple and intuitive to me, so I will ask Sofirn what they think of it. But if that complicates and hinders the development of this light (or alters the price), I will be just as happy with the discrete low-med-high that already fits the usability requirement of this light perfectly.
With engraved markings ( L - M - H or Lo
Med Hi) it is not only intuitive that is a simple easy to comprhend legend
Interested but I would prefer 1000lm max with a 5000K XHP50.2 for it’s higher efficiency. Also would like 21700 or 26650.
You are added
500 lumen max was specifically chosen because that is a pretty good output that still can be sustained well in a tube-style 18650 light without thermal control and stepdowns. I think that fits this type of light and I like to stick to that. In fact the new version of the SC31 that Sofirn sells now is 1000 lumen and I was disappointed by that because it has made the SC31 a bit less muggle-friendly.
A XHP50.2 will at these output levels hardly be more efficient than a LH351D of the same tint and CRI, and will produce a hugely worse beam (that is provided that a TIR can be found that fits it.)
A different battery type can always be a wish, but I do not see the need in this type of light, and I like the the compactness of the 18650 size that it is now, I see that as a quality.
An XHP50.2 would also have less perceived brightness because it would have substantially less throw. Minmaxing for any single attribute (in this case, efficiency) usually doesn’t produce as good an all-around light. (And no, an LH351D is most certainly not minmaxing for CRI)
I agree a few fixed modes would be fine for the core goal of this light, but stepless would be better for about 90% of use cases if it’s possible to do.
I probably don’t want one of these for myself, but I maintain the buyer’s guide at reddit/r/flashlight, and it would be a strong candidate to go on that list.
Before a team of 100 horses pulls in 100 different directions, it should be determined exactly what the goal is.
Is it a gramma light, suitable for the elderly>
Is it for the muggle?
Does it need to “appeal to flashoholics”?
Must it have a magnetic ring? High CRI? Other?
Blah blah blah.
Eg, #3 seems contradictory vs #1 and #2, so right there that needs to be sorted out first.
While we look at this light through a loupe
And chime in with our wants as a group
We know some things for sure
There’s no all-purpose cure
And too many chefs spoil the soup
Definitely interested. Probably in with 3 pcs.
In for at least 2 lights
Thanks for the move djozz!
Merry Xmas to all
Interested in several, what ever you come up with.
For elderly mom, grandma, or clueless muggle, a wireless charge station like the Orcatorch WR10 might be cool. I leave my WR10 up at the lake cottage all summer for anyone to use. Pretty intuitive to set it back in it’s cradle when finished using it. No cable to connect, no nothing. It has the added bonus of when the power goes out (which it does too often), the light turns on in low mode, so nobody is wondering around in a pitch dark log cabin looking for a flashlight. Especially my 87yr old mother.
It would certainly add to the cost though.