Is a 3 amp driver maybe the 'sweet' spot for EDC's.....

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

Over the years, like many on here, I’ve amassed one or two torches and modded and built a few.

Being UK based, I’ve usually opted for things like a Qlite driver or similar, rather than the very cool BLFDD and similar drivers.

However having now got a few higher amp flashlights, it’s got me thinking about the practical purposes.

I use my torches everyday, several times a day for various uses, but typically for shortish bursts, rather than one long on time. For this use I find I mostly like High or Turbo outputs, if I’m in doors I tend to ceiling bounce the light, so high is always good. And outside, well the higher output is simple better.

On the flip side, I also used Moonlight (if the torch has it) or low a lot. Sort of extremes really. I find most Mid outputs to be of little real world use and they only really get used because of poor UI design where you simply can’t be bothered to keep scrolling through to find the output you’d really want.

So it’s Turbo/High or Moon -> Low.

For the most part (always exceptions :smiley: )

At the moment I run a mix of 2500 Samsung 25R’s, 3100 Efest IMR’s and a few 2600-2900 ICRs.

All seem to perform fine.

But stepping up to a light that is direct drive on high, so 4-5amps+ I really notice the run times get a big hammering…

When I say runtime, I’m talking the number of days the torch spends in my pocket as EDC before the battery needs charging.

The high output is of course great, but the reality is. It isn’t ‘that’ much brighter visually than a torch running at 3amps. When it’s a flood tube style EDC.

For the big multi emitter lights and throwers, yep I’ll stick with the most amps possible.

But for EDC use, I think a Qlite or the Convoy 2.8amp driver is actually better. While using lights fitted with these, I never feel short changed on lumen level. But they last days longer before swapping out the battery.

Anyone else notice similar?

2

No, not really, because I use my middle modes. That’s what they’re there for. I like having a blinding, stupid-high level available when I need it, I just control myself and don’t use it when it isn’t needed. This increases runtime like you said, but also helps with heat of course. I agree with you about moonlights though. My lowest modes are probably my most used.

3

My real EDC is the BLF 348 so one mode only.
But my second mostly used is the little brass beauty from CNQG, with a KD driver. It pulls a max of 1.5amp (with an XML2) and I find it plenty sufficient 100% of the time…
I bought an S2+ to my wife with the 4*7135 driver and it’s also sufficient.
Sure, I would be pleased to have more lumens but most of the time I don’t need it as much as I need a good autonomy.
Moonlight is really useful too

4

Keep in mind PWM middle modes are less efficient than throttled down max modes. That’s why I really like the LD1 and LD2 drivers. The constant current of the lower modes are more efficient while having the ability to have near FET performance on high mode. (5A+).

But it terms of Qlite drivers, I’d agree that 2.8A is in the sweet spot of efficiency & output. However I personally like a little lower ~ 2A with STAR firmware. As a everyday EDC I find this this is is more than enough output for me.

5

Sure, of course, but what’s worse — using slightly less efficient middle modes most of the time or not having big lumens available if I need them?

In reality I realize there’s no one correct answer to that question. Choice is a good thing and most of us are here to make our lights do exactly what we want them to do, not what everyone else wants. So I’m perfectly content using a good, high-PWM (or current-controlled, if available) middle mode if it means I’ve got plenty of turbo available as well. Others may feel differently and that’s great. The OP shared his experience and conclusion - I shared mine - we’re all good. :slight_smile:

6

Since FET+7135 drivers exist, I disagree with the 3A driver being a sweet spot. In practice I mostly use moon a lot (preferably 1 lumen), low up to 350mA is great (so 7135 full on), and anytime I want more light than that: more is better (=drirect drive).

The 7135 is there to make the (mostly used) low modes efficient.

7

It depends on how you use it, and in just 5 comments there is already a variety.

I EDC a 3 Amp S2+, in longer bursts so medium is a necessity to allow for some cool down time before bumping it back up for max output. It occasionally doesn’t last long enough, so I’ve taken to bringing a backup as well.

8

Of course, it does depend on your light and your usage.

For short timeframe use, I like to use High mode, but when I’m working on something, I’ll bump down to Medium due to heat and to help preserve the battery. I actually end up using the low mode less frequently.

My typical EDC is a TrustFire F20; single 14500, modded with a XM-L2 emitter. This light has a 1.4A driver (101AK) and I find this to be an excellent option for the reduced capacity cell. It’s still a surprisingly bright light and it heats up quickly, even at this lower drive current.

My secondary EDC is a C20, single 18650, also with an XM-L2, but with a 2.8A no-memory, always-start-on-high driver. I favor this light in the winter months due to the longer/earlier nights. During this time of year, I use the light more frequently, and find the additional capacity and brightness to be beneficial.

My personal opinion is… :stuck_out_tongue: The FET drivers are great for show-off lights, but are less useful. The high-modes DO require additional thermal consideration, DO generate a huge amount of heat, DO thrash a cell mercilessly, and DO reduce runtime.

Parallel scenario:
I used to work with a friend who drove a 600+HP Mustang Cobra to work on a ~30mi each way commute every day. It was a fully kitted out drag car with roll cage, parachute, etc. It was loud, conspicuous, uncomfortable, inefficient, and inconvenient, but could go very fast. Of course, the speed limit was still 70mph for most of that commute so he did not benefit by the extra performance. I drove a four-cylinder Chrysler; my car was the regulated low-amp driver to his DD-FET… …And we both got to work at the same time… 0:)

9

But the FET+7135 driver is the 600hp Mustang motor and the 4cilinder Chrysler motor in the same car, you can pick the one you like :-)

10

Exactly! :bigsmile:

But the 600HP Mustang (FET + XPL-HI triple) is at home in the garage (i.e., Flashlight bag) while the efficient, comfortable, and convenient Chrysler (TrustFire F20) is on the road (or in my pocket) at this very moment!

After all, isn’t this discussion about Every Day Drivers (I mean, EDCs) instead of drag cars (I mean, High-Performance lights)?

:bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile:

11

There is no right or wrong answer.

Some want their max level to be Turbo mode.
Some want their max level to be High mode.

Lots of good reasons for being in either camp, just depends on your usage.

For me, I like High mode for my max level. If I want to hand my light to a friend I don’t have to worry about them burning themselves or ruining the light.
I also love using a light on max level, I can’t help myself sometimes I want to put in on the highest level and use it for a while. With Turbo mode it drops down too fast or it gets too hot but with a ‘High’ level I can use it and enjoy very bright light for long periods.

Turbo levels are great too, for when someone says “Hey my flashlight is brighter…” and you need to correct them.
Or for those who like to use max level for short bursts and want maximum lumens.

12

I think it all boils down to your lifestyle and your edc needs. I have FET drivers and FET + 7135 drivers on my edcs. But for my needs I usually use the middle modes, but I do like to have the potential of bright high mode available. To use the car analogy, who needs 500 hp to get around town but it’s great to have it available when you want it (of course you also have to pay extra for the gas premium, fortunately the battery premium is much less for lights).

13

Basing my premise on “you can get what you want” I would have to agree with the OP on 3A being ideal for EDC. Now for part time carry or special occasions, anything is the limit, but “only” 3A for a general purpose EDC upper limit is practical. A 3000mah 18650 should run your light 1 hour on highest setting, and about 7-8 hours at 350ma, so it is a good split of power vs runtime for me.

I even have been impressed by the light out of a 3A triple I built, pretty bright for such paltry triple power levels…

14

$.02 says that when you cant hold a light on high it is a hint that maybe you are making more heat then light, to quote Shakespeare

She should have died hereafter;
There would have been a time for such a word.
— To-morrow, and to-morrow, and to-morrow,
Creeps in this petty pace from day to day,
To the last syllable of recorded time;
And all our yesterdays have lighted fools
The way to dusty death. Out, out, brief candle!
Life’s but a walking shadow, a poor player
That struts and frets his hour upon the stage
And then is heard no more. It is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury
Signifying nothing.
— Macbeth (Act 5, Scene 5, lines 17-28)

15

To be honest I agree, and my usage would appear similar in nature. Although it’s probably 50:50 between high and moon. And if you’d asked me a year ago, I’d have said 4+amps or direct drive.

And for some lights, such as the X6, I think that’s still the right thing. But what I didn’t expect was the effect on runtime it has on my tube style 18650 EDC’s. It literally knocks them from being a 5-7 day EDC to 3-5 days use. That’s a marked difference.