Hi, I’m considering a Skilhunt EC200S mini with 18350 battery - Skilhunt recommendations are >8A discharge current, and this is related to using 1100mah battery.
And here is my question - there are 1600mah batteries from Vapcell with max 5A discharge current - what are disadvantages for using that type of battery?
Will it impact only max brightness, or also other modes like medium or high?
It will mostly affect maximum brightness, but also wear out the battery faster.
1 Thank
Wear out in a way of number of charging cycles, or less time on single charge no matter the e30% bigger capacity?
And You suggest that it will not affect medium or high modes?
Whatever modes use above that rating will wear out the battery faster. You can ask the company what amperage each mode uses, or measure it with a DMM. So if high draws 6A, then its wearing out the battery faster than the rated 5A. If high draws 3A, then it’s well within manufacturers spex.
In terms of capacity, they’re usually stipulated at some draw current, NOT the max. The max is just a safety rating.
1 Thank
The 8 or 5 amp rating is a Constant Discharge Rating (CDR).
Turbo is not Constant.
Turbo output will likely be less and turbo run time will be less. This will be even more obvious when the battery is not at full voltage. No other modes get near 5 amps.
I really doubt you’ll see much difference in turbo run times between the battery skilhunt sells with the light and the vapcell 1600 or the keeppower 1600.
1 Thank
Sanity check/napkin maths:
I’m not sure how Skilhunt achieved their “max” output. Assumption below is that it’s the 2 cold white LEDs as it’s 2 channel? Knock a little bit of power off the answer below if it’s all 3 LEDs, as LEDs are more efficient at lower drive currents.
This test is a 6500k XPG4 but it’s Hi version (domeless, so lower output).
Claimed output by Skilhunt is 2100lm. Let’s assume 10% optics losses, so 2 LEDs doing 2310lm (1155 each).
From the koef3 test, we need approx. 3A, 3.35V per LED (total 20.1W) to achieve this, which we can add 10% driver losses to be conservative 22.11w
At 3.7V nominal, this is 6A draw.
Not clear from the marketing on Skilhunt website if the 1min brightness is thermal or timed Stepdown. Given the 18650 and 18350 both have a 1min Stepdown, I suggest heat is the bigger problem…
If you rag your lights hard on high outputs, then the voltage sag might mean you trigger low voltage protection early.
If you use low/medium modes most, then you may not notice any difference between the two cells you’re considering.
3 Thanks
You need to burn that napkin
The turbo specs are wrong.
3.7 amps at turn on , turbo.
1lumen explains it all in the performance section.
My EC200 (18650 version, three LEDs) has 5.5A at 1550lm claimed output with the Nichia version.
1 Thank
How would 3.7A generate over 1800 lumens if the testing chart lines up 900 lumens each with 2.1A per LED? Just asking if we should dig the napkin back out of the trash
…assuming a 15% inefficiency to be “safe”, that would be 4.2A×1.15 =~4.83A for 1833 lumens at turn on. Either he got an extremely well binned LED, his integrating settings are miscalibrated, he ONLY took the 30 second Amperage reading, or his DMM is miscalibrated…or some combination of the three, lol…
Drop any 18350 down in there and give us an amp reading. Yes it’ll be fiddly cuz you have to hold the wire down in there on the end of the battery but it can be done I’ve done it.
Even if you’ve got an 8 or a 10 amp 18350 I predict it will be 0.5 or closer to 0.7 amps less. That’s if you start with the same voltage. The 18350s will in most cases have more voltage drop to start somewhere around 5 amps.
I don’t think we can assume that all of the driver components are the same on their 18650 and 18350 lights.
Just because skilhunt puts a label on that battery that says it’s rated at 8 amps I don’t think we can assume that is fully true either.
I’ve done some back-to-back to back measurements on my convoy S6 with an 8 amp driver dropping in multiple 18350s and multiple 18650s. I don’t think I’ll be able to find My notes but from memory I was seeing 6 to 6.5a with the various 18350s and 7 to 7.2a with the 18650s. And maybe one oddball so Fern 18350 down around 5 amps.
And with that light I had to be breaking contact to scroll through the modes to get to 100%.
I think I was using a short tube which made it easier to quickly rotate through the batteries.
Edit. I don’t carry that 8 amp convoy S6 everyday I carry my 5 amp S6 with a short tube.
He did highlight the 1669 30second number so maybe that is when he got the 3.7 amps.
But that just proves what I said early on in this thread.
Turbo is not constant.
The higher capacity 5 amp CDR is probably a good choice. I use it in my primary EDC and the 100% mode exceeds 5 amps by a little bit.
1 Thank
For the record, if you’re going to buy that light I would never buy the cold white, get the neutral one.
I probably wait for a few weeks until they release their new LED, but if they dont, I would go for 5000k.
About the battery - you say, that it would be probably ok to use 5A 1600mah, not the original 1100mah battery?