I have a Convoy S2. I hate having to leave it on for at least three seconds to prevent it from going into the next mode when I turn it back on because I need to turn it on and off quickly much of the time. Is there a way to change the UI? If so, is there a switch mod to make it turn on by and without clicking the switch? Thanks for any replies.
Hi John876! Welcome to BLF 
Well, there are ways to change the UI of the S2 or S2+…but that mostly implies changing the driver. The 3/5 modes driver, is not the most pleasant to use, in my opinion.
OR, if you order a flashlight from Convoy Flashlight Store, from AliExpress, you can ask Simon (the owner of Convoy) to put the Biscotti driver, in which you have at least 12 User Interface options!
My first Convoy light had that driver installed, but the I replaced it for a Biscotti driver (unsolder the other, and solder the new one) and use that driver in several lights.
If you are able to solder, you can replace it easily and have plenty modes to play with
Hope this helps!!
You need to put a Forward clicky switch in the tail cap—- That way slight press on and change modes—full click it stays on
That won’t help for needing to turn it off and on quickly without changing modes.
OP needs a different driver.
Yes but it will help with not having to click and turn it on fully like he Asked—But I guess I’m just a Dumb A==
Ah yes you are right.
I wouldn’t jump to that conclusion. :face_with_monocle:
John, I also found the stock UI to be a pain. I’m not sure what country you are in, but if your in the US and can solder, then the 3A Q-lite driver from MTN Electronics loaded with Guppydrv is a good choice.
It’s a little tricky soldering the driver to the pill, but not that hard. It makes for a great light and has a ton of programming options. Note that with Guppydrv it won’t turn off at low voltage, so a protected battery is recommended as a precaution. It costs about $5 + shipping, but it turns an annoying light into a super friendly light.
As far as keeping the stock driver, it can be reflashed with Biscotti, but that is a whole other can of worms.
Speaking of forward-clicky for Op’s S2, does anybody know of a forward-clicky that would fit in an S2+/C8 or S2? From everything I’ve read, they are too big (height) to fit in the tails. I see pflexpro sells C8’s with forward clickys, but not-a-chance for that price. Thanks for any help.
I’ll try installing the 3A Q-lite. There are no forward clicky switches made for the S2. What switch should I buy that fits the S2 that is the easiest to modify into a forward clicky on the S2? Thanks.
Unless you have a version with a metal tail switch, if you put a forward clicky on a S2/S2+ I guess all you have to do is cut the inside protrusion on the rubber tailcap, since the problem is the height of the switch. I’ve done it on a smaller light which uses the same diameter switch board as the S2+, and the protrusion inside the tailcap is about the same size
Don't the S2's have the Attiny13 mcu? I think so, but not sure off hand. If you want to go into a whole new realm of modding, you could flash new firmware on to it. The equipment to do so is inexpensive, there is a good bit to learn. There are a few good threads on how to flash the Attiny13's here. I've been out the loop for a bit. So I'm not sure what firmware choices are available. There are quite a few though.
The Convoy S2+ driver/head seems quite difficult to desolder properly… Any tips on how that may be done? (I only have a 40-watt soldering iron, so it may be that’s not enough.)
Based on some info in other messages here, the S2+ MCU is supposedly locked (I think someone asked Simon about it, and he specifically mentioned its locked) and can’t be flash updated (I think someone mentioned there may be a way to unlock though…).
Also, I can’t seem to unsolder the S2+ head so I can’t check if it’s really using ATTiny13 MCU (for the old firmware 5/3-modes S2+)…
All the driver pictures on Convoy’s store show it uses a tiny13a.
You have to heat up the brass pill pretty good. 40w might be borderline. Dump a bunch of heat in it, then let the iron recover for a minute, then dump more heat in the solder joint.
If it still won’t melt, you might try holding the pill with pliers and putting the corner of it against a flame to get it nice and hot, then the soldering iron has to do less work to melt the solder.
I did a swap like this a long time back with a 60w iron. I think I had to dump heat from the iron into the pill twice before the solder melted. So 40w might not be enough. It might need some help.
I normally just cut away at the solder until I can pull the driver free of the pill.
You still have to solder it back on.
Those little propane-fueled “blowtorches” work wonders. Work very quickly, though, and don’t overcook it.
10bux or so at The Work Bench and similar stores.
I cut off the protrusion on the inside of the switch cover which only made the light harder turn on because I have to push my finger in further. The switch does not operate as a forward clicky. I have more switch covers so it’s no big deal, but this did not work.
This Switch should be close in fitting an S2+ —— Might have to sand slightly—— I think who ever said cut the nub out of the switch boot meant after you install a Forward clicky—-the switch button sticks out further