Is there really any reason to run an XP-G2 anymore?

[Chicken_Drumstick]

Before we start, I’ll confess I’ve always been quite a fan of the XP-G/2 emitter. I’ve often considered it the sweet spot for output vs throw.

And I have a number of them. Including a Convoy S4 and a C8, both running at 3amps with Qlites.

However, now that the XP-L HI is available, I question the wisdom of running an XP-G2 anymore. My Kronos X6’s will slightly out throw my XP-G2 C8. I know the C8 isn’t running the same amps, but it’s a much bigger torch and reflector and doesn’t pump out anywhere near the same lumen level.

And I know I could de-dome the XP-G2’s. But de-doming always has risks and tint shifts (which the XP-L HI avoids). And tbh, I think the beam is narrow enough already.

Are there any situations where a domed XP-G2 can out perform an XP-L HI?

[emarkd]

I think if maximum throw is your goal then the XP-G2 is still king, isn’t it? I mean that may only be good for chasing numbers on the meter instead of being ideal for real-world usage, but there’s still room around here for number chasing

Honestly I don’t think I’d want a de-domed XP-G2 in any light that I actually use regularly, but my de-domed XP-G2 C8 is still my strongest small thrower. I’ve built quite a few others, including XP-L HI lights, and I haven’t beat the XP-G2 yet.

[Chicken_Drumstick]

I admit I do sometimes think about de-doming my XP-G2 C8 and fitting a FET driver. But apart from the fun of doing it, I don’t realistically expect to get a better or more useful light out of it. And if I want more throw than it currently offers, then I can just grab my Olight M3XS.

Maybe tube lights the smaller LED still focuses better for throw??

[djozz]

I tend to agree that there is reason not to use a domed XP-G2 anymore, partly because the Nichia 219C comes so close to it while having a better tint and lower voltage. But dedomed the XP-G2 is indeed still the king of throw.

But for the budget-minded: a XP-L Hi emitter is twice the price of a XP-G2 : swapping all emitters in your 9-led Latticebright SRK will turn out costly if you use XP-L Hi emitters!

As for alternatives for domed XP-G2 leds, last night I tested a gen.3 5000K 70CRI Oslon Square (up to 8.4A) and it beats the XP-G2 S4 in output, while having a voltage even lower than the XP-L Hi. It is cheaper too, I payed 2 dollars/led. But I could not get it dedomed, as usual for Oslons. I will post about the test one of these days…

[pilotdog68]

I have more dedomed XPG2’s than I have XP-L’s, both HD and HI varieties. It really doesn’t give the pencil beam that people assume it does.

That said, the only reason I see to use a domed XP-G2 vs an XP-L HI, is to keep costs down. $2.50 for a good XP-G2 vs $6 for a good XP-L HI really adds up, especially in triples and quads.

[Chicken_Drumstick]

@djozz

I tend to agree that there is reason not to use a domed XP-G2 anymore, partly because the Nichia 219C comes so close to it while having a better tint and lower voltage. But dedomed the XP-G2 is indeed still the king of throw.

But for the budget-minded: a XP-L Hi emitter is twice the price of a XP-G2 : swapping all emitters in your 9-led Latticebright SRK will turn out costly if you use XP-L Hi emitters!

As for alternatives for domed XP-G2 leds, last night I tested a gen.3 5000K 70CRI Oslon Square (up to 8.4A) and it beats the XP-G2 S4 in output, while having a voltage even lower than the XP-L Hi. It is cheaper too, I payed 2 dollars/led. But I could not get it dedomed, as usual for Oslons. I will post about the test one of these days…

Thanks for your insights, I highly value your opinion on these things.

— slightly off topic, but as you mentioned them. Are the Nichia 219C’s ok direct driven, i.e. with a FET driver? I run all my 219B’s with 3amp Qlites and they work fine, but the hosts get a bit toasty. I don’t want to go OTT with the 219C.

The reason being I have a few BLF A6 drivers and a spare Qlite and I’m building a triple Convoy S2+. I like the modes and moonlight of the A6 driver, but don’t know if with a 30Q 18650 it’ll be too much on turbo with a 219C?

Thanks.

[djozz]

The 219C will be killed direct driven on a 30Q and pretty much any 18650 battery, you really need current regulation. But I have a direct driven (BLF-A6 driver) 219C triple on an IMR 18350 and that works like a charm, so in smaller battery lights the 219C is great!

[keltex78]

I have relatively few lights with XP-G/G2 emitters, but I find that they have their place, primarily in smaller-lensed zoomies.

I have a couple, one is the TrustFire Z5 and the second is a Sk-98, and I prefer both lights with XP-G2 emitters.

Specifically, the SK-98 is moddded with a 3A Nanjg 105E (20mm version of the 105c, http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023811) and I initially had a XP-L HI installed. With this emitter, the hotspot was too large it didn’t have the throw I wanted. I swapped the emitter with an XP-G2 and I find that the smaller die produced much better results. For the smaller SK-68s, I prefer the smaller XP-E2 emitter.

[Pablo_E]

Interesting topic.

Would a Carclo triple lens (10507 for example) with XP-L HIs throw as much as with domed XP-G2s?

[djburkes]

I’ve built 7 single 219c lights with 17mm fet+1 drivers…1 BLF A6, 1 Thorfire VG15, and 5 Convoy S2+s. All had the driver spring bypassed and tailspring bypassed with the wire soldered directly to the switch and I haven’t had one die yet. I’ve used 30Qs and Efest 35as. I do only use 22awg wire though.

[Hoop]

@djburkes

I’ve built 7 single 219c lights with 17mm fet+1 drivers…1 BLF A6, 1 Thorfire VG15, and 5 Convoy S2+s. All had the driver spring bypassed and tailspring bypassed with the wire soldered directly to the switch and I haven’t had one die yet. I’ve used 30Qs and Efest 35as. I do only use 22awg wire though.

Whoa, nice. I wonder if the switch + 22 awg wire is saving you. Have you tried that configuration with an E-switch?

[djozz]

@djburkes

I’ve built 7 single 219c lights with 17mm fet+1 drivers…1 BLF A6, 1 Thorfire VG15, and 5 Convoy S2+s. All had the driver spring bypassed and tailspring bypassed with the wire soldered directly to the switch and I haven’t had one die yet. I’ve used 30Qs and Efest 35as. I do only use 22awg wire though.

The 219C is extremely tough, it did not die or even damage up to 10A (did not go higher in the test), but above 6A the output drops. Did you measure the current in one of those direct drive mods, with switch in the circuit?

[djburkes]

@Hoop

@djburkes

I’ve built 7 single 219c lights with 17mm fet+1 drivers…1 BLF A6, 1 Thorfire VG15, and 5 Convoy S2+s. All had the driver spring bypassed and tailspring bypassed with the wire soldered directly to the switch and I haven’t had one die yet. I’ve used 30Qs and Efest 35as. I do only use 22awg wire though.

Whoa, nice. I wonder if the switch + 22 awg wire is saving you. Have you tried that configuration with an E-switch?

Nah, just clickies.

[djburkes]

@djozz

@djburkes

I’ve built 7 single 219c lights with 17mm fet+1 drivers…1 BLF A6, 1 Thorfire VG15, and 5 Convoy S2+s. All had the driver spring bypassed and tailspring bypassed with the wire soldered directly to the switch and I haven’t had one die yet. I’ve used 30Qs and Efest 35as. I do only use 22awg wire though.

The 219C is extremely tough, it did not die or even damage up to 10A (did not go higher in the test), but above 6A the output drops. Did you measure the current in one of those direct drive mods, with switch in the circuit?

I didn’t because I have a crappy meter. I just figured since the first couple worked fine that the others would too. I haven’t had any complaints from the people that I’ve sold them to. The main driver that I’ve used is wight’s blf a6 driver. I’ve used a few from mtnelectronics too.

[Chicken_Drumstick]

@pilotdog68

I have more dedomed XPG2’s than I have XP-L’s, both HD and HI varieties. It really doesn’t give the pencil beam that people assume it does.

Don’t suppose you have any side by side beam shots do you?

I do have a de-domed XP-G2, but it’s in my UF-1504 aspheric and direct driven. But I do find the beam a little narrow if I’m honest.

[keltex78]

Also,

I find that XP-G2 emitters are a good combination with a boost driver to run in a 2xAA sized P60 for non-Li-Ion friendly users…

I built one a couple of years ago for a friend, and he is still using it a lot.

Building a 2x-AA P60 for a friend...

I have a friend who I do not trust with Li-Ion cells. I know he will run them down to flat and forget about them on the charger for hours. A couple of years ago, I assembled him a P60 with a nice bright emitter and a high-voltage driver so he could run from the CR123a primaries I gave him with the light. A while back, he asked me to look at his light as he thought something was wrong with it. He said was getting hot and draining his batteries. I checked it out and it worked properly so I asked h…

I’ve built a second on the same platform using a high-CRI 219b for my father, as he works in networking, and needs to be able to see color coded cabling well…

[keltex78]

@Chicken Drumstick

@pilotdog68

I have more dedomed XPG2’s than I have XP-L’s, both HD and HI varieties. It really doesn’t give the pencil beam that people assume it does.

Don’t suppose you have any side by side beam shots do you?

I do have a de-domed XP-G2, but it’s in my UF-1504 aspheric and direct driven. But I do find the beam a little narrow if I’m honest.

Then, when I built my 1508 with a dedomed XP-E2 torch emitter… }

[pilotdog68]

@Chicken Drumstick

@pilotdog68

I have more dedomed XPG2’s than I have XP-L’s, both HD and HI varieties. It really doesn’t give the pencil beam that people assume it does.

Don’t suppose you have any side by side beam shots do you?

I do have a de-domed XP-G2, but it’s in my UF-1504 aspheric and direct driven. But I do find the beam a little narrow if I’m honest.

No I rarely take any beamshots, and I’ve never had multiples of the same light with different emitters. I’ve sold my 1405 now, but it did have a dedomed XP-G2 while I had it. I like a pretty narrow beam in a thrower because that’s what it’s for. It widens up at long distances anyways.

I just feel that when people hear “dedomed XP-G2” they think it’s going to look like an XR-E beam or something. It’s not like that at all.

In my Courui, the dedomed XP-G2 gives a very fat beam, because the reflector is really “fat”

[ImA4Wheelr]

@djozz

The 219C will be killed direct driven on a 30Q and pretty much any 18650 battery, you really need current regulation. But I have a direct driven (BLF-A6 driver) 219C triple on an IMR 18350 and that works like a charm, so in smaller battery lights the 219C is great!

“Killed”, did you intend that word? I’ve been DD’ing them with high drain cells ever since I got some and they haven’t shown any signs of stress yet. I haven’t been trying to torture test them though and I tend to only used the highest mode for short bursts (this goes for all my lights).

The only case where I saw output drop was in a highly modded TN31. Definitely tint shifted and dropped output in turbo mode, but still kept ticking.

EDIT: Nevermind, I guess the response in Post 12 kind of answers the above.

[djozz]

@ImA4Wheelr

@djozz

The 219C will be killed direct driven on a 30Q and pretty much any 18650 battery, you really need current regulation. But I have a direct driven (BLF-A6 driver) 219C triple on an IMR 18350 and that works like a charm, so in smaller battery lights the 219C is great!

“Killed”, did you intend that word? I’ve been DD’ing them with high drain cells ever since I got some and they haven’t shown any signs of stress yet. I haven’t been trying to torture test them though and I tend to only used the highest mode for short bursts (this goes for all my lights).

The only case where I saw output drop was in a highly modded TN31. Definitely tint shifted and dropped output in turbo mode, but still kept ticking.

I was totally assuming that the 219C would not survive direct drive based on my led-test, but I hear here multiple reports of it working fine so I was wrong. Still wonder about the drive currents of these mods though?