I just found some Cree XP-E2 3W 4500k emitters on 20mm stars that I can get for $1.50 each. Is that a good price, or do I need to look again? I don’t really need the stars for what I’m wanting to use these for.
Sounds good… willing to share a source?
Depends on the tint and bin. Some I wouldn't use unless they were free, and even then it wouldn't go in a flashlight.
price is good
I don’t know all the best places to buy stuff like this, so I look on eBay frequently, where I found these. They were marked with a higher price, but had a “Make an offer” available. I made an offer, and the $1.50 price was the seller’s counter-offer. With not much effort, you can find the listing yourself. I don’t want to put up a link and be directly responsible for keeping this guy from getting a better (for him) price if he is able to. My offer was for 30 pcs, and according to the listing, shipping will be $2.00, for a total of $47.00 shipped. Tint doesn’t matter much to me for what I will be using these for, but it claims to be 4500k. I don’t know about binning.
4500k is good.
I wish that vendor sold something like this for XM-L's. If it's in parallel, it would be a great way to recycle old emitters.
Lots of creative ways you could make something like that. Why don’t you make one yourself? Since I’ve been here, I’ve learned that a motivated person can mirror coat an led dome, and/or also electroplate copper onto aluminum. Nothing is impossible, it seems. And if that isn’t easy enough, Radio Shack will sell you a copper-clad pcb and some etching compound, and/or electrically conductive paint markers.
Thanks. Making one might be a great learning project, and I may just do that as an Oshpark project. Ultimately it depends how hard I plan on pushing the emitters. 0.5A and I feel safe using an Oshpark mcpcb, but >=3A and I want better thermal characteristics.
You could convert that copper 100x board to direct bond, it’d be a huge bitch but doable.
I probably would if the dielectric layer was a problem. Djozz's recent tests found that it's not always very significant. If I do it, it'll be inspired by comfychair's drill press milling posts, so that would be used to mill off the dielectric layer. Then I'd mask the +/- pads and electroplate to bring the center pad up. That will probably take a few days in the electroplating bath, but at least it requires little to no interaction while it's working, although I might put an aquarium pump in the solution since moving the solution around a bit is supposed to help even out the thickness of the plating.