Anybody with any experience with the antique copper and/or brass lights from Hank? They look pretty similar, just having a hard time deciding. I’d like to hear some pros and cons of either if possible!
I got an antique brass D4V2 around a month ago. Mule 1800K NTG35 to replace my FW3B 1800K 219F. Almost only used for timed candle mode every night. The AUX is pretty bright, and even on low it’s brighter than some lights on high, but there are what, 12 RGBs?
The D4V2 has the Lume X1 driver I think, FW is the purple 7+1 FET. The D4 has a more noticeable flicker (more extreme difference from low to higher flickers if that makes sense). The tint of the 219F 1800K I actually like more, there’s a bit of a difference to the eye.
Now to try to answer your question: I’m not sure what Hank uses to achieve the finish, possibly brass black or similar. It actually did slightly rub off on my hand at first, but I wiped it down with iso and it fixed it. Threads are more smooth than my Al D4V2 and especially the Ti one. I don’t have a copper Hank yet.
It was pretty dark at first, I hit it with a red 3M fine grit scotch-brite to make it a bit brighter. I use the same pads to achieve a brushed-like finish on some of my other brass lights, but didn’t go too hard on the D4.
I’ve used Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black pen and their cold gun blue liquid on copper lights and scales before, although they give a much darker/deeper black color “patina” than the Hank antique brass. His copper may be different, I believe @worrub918 has an antique copper D4.
The finish was pretty matte and “chalky” but felt very smooth, especially on the body tube knurling, which seems to be slightly different (thinner, shallower cuts between the squares, which look slightly larger) than my Al or Ti D4s, but they’re the older press fit ring style so that might be why. Don’t know if he has changed to the smoother style since. Ti is rougher than non-stonewashed Al.
They come with the metal button I think, or at least I specced it. It doesn’t matter if it could be accidentally activated in the pocket since this light won’t be pocket carried with a clip on it probably ever.
I am also thinking of getting another D3AA, but I just ordered a KR3 so it’ll be a while. Since I don’t like the look of the TiCu D3, I’ll likely get full copper. If the Ti one had a Ti or maybe even brass head I’d get it. He won’t do it for thermal reasons. Full Ti TS10 works fine, but I don’t use turbo cause it obviously gets hot. I like my TiCu D4V2 but for some reason I just don’t like the look of it on the D3AA.
Sorry I know I wrote way more than what was asked about but maybe it could help someone?
Edit: I would imagine Hank uses the same product to give the antique finish on both metals, just don’t know what it is.
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I have 3 copper Hanks and they’re all different blends. D3AA , D4V2 and D4K. I’ll get a pic of them lined up in a little bit
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Like the finish is different between them all? Interesting. I wonder if it is applied manually
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2 are antique. 1 raw.
The raw seems to be more red then the other 2. The other two are different from each other.
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Is that the standard copper clip on that D3AA? Looks great! I’ve been googling photos of both the copper and brass, and do recall seeing yours pop up haha! They look so similar, between the copper and brass in the few photos I’ve been able to pull up. Really like that antique look, I need one!! (Even though I already have 3 D3AA’s) and too impatient to wait around for other variants of the KR1AA.
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Yep. It’s the standard clip. I like taking the antique and hitting it with some steel wool for a few second to knock some of the funk off of it. It greatly improves the appearance of it.
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I prefer Copper. But it is all a matter of personal preference. Where the patina wears off, Brass is yellow, Copper is Red. I hope you enjoy whichever you choose. 
fwiw, there is now a Dual Channel D3AA, in both Brass and Copper, as well as in Clear Anodized Aluminum..
Note the Dual Channel driver is LiIon only, no Eneloop, and the lowest mode is not as low as the single channel. It uses the same linear driver used in the D4K/D4V2 dual channel version. This post says “Moon should be ~0.75 - 1 lm”
The Single Channel D3AA has a Moonlight of less than 0.01 lm.
No experience with the antique treatment. If I did get the antique, I would polish it so the high points would be shiny.. ;-).. (I use a Jewelers cloth, not steel wool)
I have a polished copper dual channel on the way, with two NTG 2700K and one Deep Red:
